05/30/2025
For those who might be thinking of subscribing but are on the fence, here's an example of one of my recent winery reviews of a Barolo and Barbaresco producer's 2021 and 2022 releases. Some of my formatting gets stripped when posting like this - like bolding, italics and photo positions - but you can get the picture. Enjoy the reading and please support my small wine journalism website. It's a lot of work, but having your support makes it worth it! All for $.22 cents a day!
2021 Mauro Molino Barolos + their First-Ever Barbaresco!
Molino’s 2021 Barolos and their first-ever Barbaresco – the 2022 Giacosa – are just arriving in the US market and should be available soon. While the Barolo’s, which are produced in a relatively larger scale, will be readily available, the 2022 Barbaresco is exceptionally limited in production, and therefore will be challenging to source in the US market. I expect what small quantity that does make it to our shores to sell-out quickly, so move fast.
Coming on the heels of the 2019 vintage, Molino smashed it out of the park with their 2020s, but the 2021s surpass the 2020s and represent as fine a set of wines as I’ve tasted from this winery. In my view they are very much on par in terms of both quality and age-worthiness with the 2019 vintage releases. These are wines that will show best with at least mid-term cellaring, although they can be drunk young, which is the modern trend for age-worthy wines. But they will truly sparkle with long cellaring! Don’t be bashful, lay down a few if you for long term cellaring. Vinification of Molino’s 2021 Barolo’s is identical to their previous vintage. It feels to me like they’re on a roll with that formula.
Some important news from the winery: with their first-ever Barbaresco having been recently released, next year they will release their second Barbaresco from the Casot Cru. This vineyard is also in Treiso. For the Molino family, the acquisition of these two parcels represents a dream come true. For years they’ve been eyeing various Barbaresco vineyards, but the market is very competitive with vineyards commanding extraordinary prices and it took time and patience to realize their dream. Fulfillment has arrived!
On the topic of the 2024 vintage, which I wrote about in the previous Molino feature, they wrapped up harvest in mid-October. Matteo said it was a very challenging harvest given the complicated weather conditions. Reminiscent of cooler vintages of the past, it was a vintage that challenged their winemaking skills. Mauro’s experience was important in vineyard management, especially during the summer and autumn phases, as the amount of rainfall during the year was very significant. The wines won’t be released for a couple more years, but I’m looking forward to tasting them. Reminding my readers of one of my mantra’s: Producer over vintage”. In the meantime, the next Barolo vintage will be 2022, and for Barbaresco 2023, where they’ll have two Cru bottlings. Stay tuned!
2022 Mauro Molino, Barbaresco, Giacosa (RT92) Relatively deeply perfumed and coming from a hot, dry vintage, the 2022 Giacosa, sourced from their newly acquired parcel in Treiso, is an impressive bottling, displaying the deft touch of the talented team at Molino. This over performing bottling wafts up notes of spiced red plum, pomegranate liqueur, aromatic cedar, sous bois and mineral notes. The palate reveals the hot, dry conditions of the vintage, as it displays super ripe fruit with early tertiary notes emerging, not prevalently, but just hinting that they’re on the horizon. The acidity is fresh, yet pliable, the tannins suave and sweet, if not leaning toward a slightly grainier texture than in the best vintages. This is an impressive effort, bravo Team Molino! Drink 2027-2037+ Tasted April 2025
This first ever vintage of Molino’s Barbaresco Giacosa is crafted from a small plot at the crest of the ridgetop. The grapes are hand harvested, then fermented in stainless, with malolactic following, and then aged for 13-14 months in 500 liter used French oak tonneaux. It is then bottled, aged for an additional 1 year, and released into the market. As of the time of my tasting, this wine had not yet arrived in the United States but should be on our shores soon. Production is miniscule with just 2084 total bottles produced and the winery has released very small allocations for their various importers. If you have relationships with them, I suggest reaching out and discussing if there will be any available in the market for you to acquire.
Martina and Matteo Molino had long ago set a goal of producing Barbaresco to augment their extensive Barolo selection. In 2022 they brought that dream to life when they purchased two small parcels in the municipality of Treiso. This municipality is known for its high elevation vineyards and renowned for producing aromatically endowed wines. With the acquisition of this small triangular plot parcel of the Giacosa Cru in 2021 they completed the first step in this process. This plot is situated right at the crest of the hilltop, where it basks in the late afternoon ripening sun. In 2023 they also added a small portion of the Casot Cru, which sits just below the bottom slopes of the Giacosa Cru and here they will produce a 2023 vintage Casot Barbaresco. The Casot plot is even smaller than the Giacosa, and expected production is 1625 bottles.
2021 Mauro Molino, Barolo DOCG (RT93+) Shimmering ruby-garnet, the aromatics of Molino’s recently released 2021 Barolo are mesmerizing and impressive for a classico Barolo blend. Rising from the glass with precision focus are notes of crushed red raspberries, pomegranate arils, red currants, alpine flowers and sweet herbs. The palate displays a lightness that’s somewhat of a surprise, yet is powerful, linear and supremely elegant, the acidity punctuating with sharp resonance, the tannins ripe and defining the finish. This vintage will drink well for a long time and age in an elegant, structured direction. Drink 2026-2041+ Tasted April 2025
This classico Barolo is blended from grapes grown in the Annunziata cru, in the lower part of La Morra, the Berri cru, on the high slope to the southwest of La Morra, and the Perno cru, in the municipality of Monforte d’Alba. The Perno cru adds structure while the Annunziata and Berri fruit adds elegance. The soil in these crus leans more toward clay dominant. This is a relatively large production bottling with 45,000 bottles produced. It receives a medium-long maceration and is then aged in 10-15 year old 5000 liter Botti crafted from untoasted French oak, which is sourced from a variety of forests, for 20 months.
2021 Mauro Molino, Barolo DOCG, La Serra (RT96) Delivers deep Morello cherry, Ariel plum, balsam, anise, brambly brush and soaring mentholated notes. The aromatic package is intense and sharply focused, while the palate is built like a massive fortress, with layers of intense, sweet ripe fruit, the acidity omnipresent, yet perfectly proportioned, the tannins structured and succulent. The balance and weightlessness is divine and masterful, this is built for the long haul and is one to lay down and cellar. Whether it’s for 5 or 25 years, it will show exceptional well. Just be sure to give it some O2 and allow it time to unfurl its magnificence. Impressive! Drink 2029-2046+ Tasted April 2025
The La Serra cru is a superb example of the enlightened winemaking approach at Mauro Molino with the fruit being sourced from a single parcel of estate property. The fruit is hand harvested, gently pressed and fermented. It is then aged for 20-24 months in used French oak mainly sourced from the Troncais forest. The barrels range from 225 to 3000 liters and are either untoasted, or very lightly toasted, mostly used. This wine expresses deft winemaking skills and reveals no evidence of small barrel again. Marvelous, understated winemaking!
2021 Mauro Molino, Barolo DOCG, Conca (RT97) The flagship 2021 Conca is a superstar in the 2021 vintage revealing the power and structure of the vintage exquisitely balanced by the experience of the Molino winemaking team. Stunningly pure, laser detailed notes of mentholated red cherry liqueur, cranberry compote, aromatic cedar, crunchy dry sous bois, and a cloud of limestone dust. The palate is equally impressive and precise with the acidity and sweet fruit in perfect harmony, the finish is long and inviting. A fantastic effort, this is an iconic Barolo made in small production levels. Buy it before it sells out and lay it down, you will be handsomely rewarded. Drink 2029-2050+ Tasted April 2025
The Conca bottling, from the flagship vineyard where Molino first started winemaking, is another of their single parcel bottlings. I suspect the 2021 of this wine will take a long winter nap in the coming years (aka closing-down), so I’m glad I caught it in an open, expressive mood. Do not despair if it sleeping when you pull the cork, it just needs more cellar time or some serious decanting if you’re drinking it on the younger side. Like the La Serra, the fruit is hand harvested, gently pressed and then fermented and macerated. It sees 22-24 months of aging and like the La Serra bottling, is only aged in 225-3000 liter, untoasted or lightly toasted, used, French oak barrels. Like La Serra, again, you would never know it! Bravo Matteo Molino and your Team!