08/25/2023
Natural wine, though unregulated, is surprisingly well-defined in the wine industry. As a movement, it seeks to produce wine from vine to bottle, pure in expression of place, time, terroir, and grape varietal. Typical practices include organic farming, fermentation with native vineyard yeast (rather than predictable commercial yeast), abstention from oaky influence, inclusion of distinguishable and often visible yeast in the bottle, and other non-effort efforts at minimal intervention.
Natural bottles sometimes follow the anticipated flavour decorum of more commonly produced wines. Alternatively, they can swing for the fences of wild and unrestrained, offering notes of earth, pith, and must - akin to an adventurous kombucha or sour beer.
In cultural terms, natural wine is the pursuit of agricultural purity. Riding the current authenticity zeitgeist, its consumption has been trending across global metropolises for a few good years now - or a few good laudable decades if you are of French ilk. During my time in wine grad school, my French colleagues often discussed natural wine, pondering whether it would move from trend to staple.
Time will provide answers, but in the meantime, consumer interest has increased year over year. Winemakers from Bordeaux to California have taken notice and action. In London, when we select bottles for Ourglass club members, natural is the norm. Few of our wines or importers sit outside this craft ethos.
Whatever your palate preferences, from orange to oaked wine, there is likely a natural bottle to suit your tastes. If you’ve yet to explore, shout and I’ll nod you in a retail bottle direction or pour you a pop up glass this weekend. If you have a fave bottle, please share the recommendation!
"The ability to simplify means to eliminate the unnecessary so that the necessary may speak.”
- Artist Hans Hofmann
Pics: Natch wine explorations around our vinous globe.
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