Pretty Poultry Pets

Pretty Poultry Pets Pretty Poultry Pets (Australia)
Est. 2023

Home of my passion for silkies, bred with love and goals of improvement.

(Australian standards)
Sharing honest breeding journeys, poultry facts and simple natural ways to make them thrive. šŸ¤

Ok I have decided to have another auction in the next few days! Going over my current schedule , work and commitments I ...
03/09/2026

Ok I have decided to have another auction in the next few days!

Going over my current schedule , work and commitments I realised now may be my only chance in a while to move these birds on.

I have already paired my breeding birds for this year, so these are basically birds that didn’t make the cut, and I simply just won’t need them for my self.

There will be colours in black, blue, splash, white, grey and buff. Possibly something more as I am going trough them all at this very moment.

And yes, before the 1500 messages comes trough, there will be a black cockerel in this lot up for grabs ! I held on to him long enough for me to realise , I really do not need him, he is a lovely boy, but I already have more than enough to see me trough this breeding season.

I will be taking photos, info and general details of each bird these next few days and hopefully have the auction up by this weekend. It will run for a few days to give everyone a chance to join in.

I’d say good morning but this chick may have other opinions on that.
01/09/2026

I’d say good morning but this chick may have other opinions on that.

🌼How I house my chicks in their brooders! 🐄🌼For the first weeks of my chicks lives, I personally prefer to raise them on...
01/09/2026

🌼How I house my chicks in their brooders! 🐄🌼

For the first weeks of my chicks lives, I personally prefer to raise them on puppy pads rather than shavings, mulch or other loose bedding.

This is simply the system that I have found works extremely well for me, and there are several reasons why I choose to do it this way.

Before my chicks go into the brooder, I put down approximately 14 puppy pads layered directly on top of one another.

Every morning and every afternoon, I simply roll up and remove the dirty top layer, revealing a completely fresh, clean puppy pad underneath. At the same time, I clean and refill their water.

It makes my brooder cleaning incredibly quick and easy, but more importantly, I don’t have to remove or disturb all of the chicks every time I clean. Within a couple of minutes, they have a clean, dry floor again.
This way I keep their environment as clean, dry and controlled as possible.

I don’t want them immediately exposed to unnecessary dust or outside materials such as soil, mulch or shavings that can potentially bring microorganisms, mould spores or pathogens into the brooder.

It also means their droppings aren’t disappearing underneath bedding and accumulating unnoticed. Twice every day, the soiled surface is physically removed from the brooder. Once I’m down on the last layer of puppy pads, it is time for that lot of chicks to move over to their next bigger brooder with a lower temperature.

One of the biggest reasons I like this system is coccidiosis prevention and control of environmental contamination.

Coccidia are spread through faecal contamination, and their oocysts need suitable environmental conditions to become infective. Keeping the brooder dry and frequently removing droppings helps reduce the opportunity for contamination to build up.

In my own chicks, using this management system, I have never encountered a coccidiosis outbreak. That doesn’t mean puppy pads make coccidiosis impossible, but maintaining a clean, dry environment and reducing faecal build-up is one of the management practices I personally rely on.

Anyone who has used loose bedding with chicks knows how quickly they can kick shavings into a freshly cleaned drinker. With puppy pads, there is nothing for them to scratch into their water, so I find their drinking water stays much cleaner.

If water is spilled, I can also see it immediately rather than having damp bedding sitting unnoticed underneath the surface. The wet pad can simply be removed and the clean, dry layer underneath is ready to go.

I also like knowing exactly what my chicks are eating.

For those first weeks, I want my chicks eating their proper chick starter crumble, rather than filling themselves up pecking at pieces of bedding.

Young chicks naturally investigate everything with their beaks, and loose bedding can be eaten, particularly when they’re first learning what is and isn’t food. Keeping things simple also makes it much easier for me to monitor their eating and droppings, including spotting digestive problems or pasty butt early.

For me, the routine is incredibly simple:

14 layers down → peel one off morning and afternoon → fresh, dry brooder.

There are plenty of different ways to successfully raise chicks, and I’m not saying everyone needs to do things exactly the way I do.

This is simply what I have found through my own trials and errors to work for my chicks.

For those first weeks of life, my priority is giving them a clean, dry and controlled environment before they gradually move on to the big outside world.

Pretty Poultry Pets

Beautiful little grower babies 🩶🩶🩶
31/08/2026

Beautiful little grower babies 🩶🩶🩶

Big day vaccinating all new bubs for mareks, which took majority of the day (please don’t ask how many).Vaccinating for ...
30/08/2026

Big day vaccinating all new bubs for mareks, which took majority of the day (please don’t ask how many).

Vaccinating for mareks is done early on in the chicks first few days or even weeks if kept off the ground/soil and away from any other outside birds.

0.2ml is injected in the neck and this will give them a protection from mareks for the rest of their life’s, no second dose or booster is needed. With mareks being one of the most common diseases in poultry and one of the most devastating, I find it crucial to vaccinate all of my chooks for it.

Something important to understand about Marek’s is that vaccination does not necessarily stop a chicken from becoming infected with the virus or carrying it.

The vaccine is primarily there to protect the bird from developing the devastating clinical disease, including paralysis, nerve damage and tumours. A vaccinated chicken can still become infected with the Mareks virus, carry it and shed it into its environment through feather dander and dust, usually without ever looking sick themselves. Vaccination can reduce shedding, but it does not completely prevent it.

Once a chicken is infected with Marek’s, the infection persists for life. This means a perfectly healthy looking chicken can be a carrier and a source of infection for other birds. The virus is extremely contagious and is mainly spread when chickens inhale contaminated feather dander and dust. It can also survive in housing/coop dust and litter for months.

This is also why I vaccinate my chicks as early as possible and keep them away from adult birds and contaminated ground while their immunity develops. The vaccine needs time to establish protection, so vaccinating before exposure is incredibly important and I won’t let my chicks on to the ground and their future outdoor environment until at least 6 weeks after vaccination.

So when someone says, ā€œMy flock is vaccinated, therefore they can’t have or spread Mareksā€, that unfortunately isn’t true. Vaccinated birds can still encounter, carry and shed the virus, the huge benefit of vaccination is giving them protection against developing the devastating disease it can cause.

Vaccinating isn’t for everyone, but I have been steadfast on doing it almost since the day I started breeding and to this day I have not lost one chook to this horrible disease.

Obsessing over these creations , old enough to breed the next gen from these girls šŸ–¤
29/08/2026

Obsessing over these creations , old enough to breed the next gen from these girls šŸ–¤

Do I need them? No, do I want them forever and ever and always because they are ridiculously cute? Absolutely yes!      ...
28/08/2026

Do I need them? No, do I want them forever and ever and always because they are ridiculously cute? Absolutely yes!

Isn’t this young splash pullet just divine šŸ–¤šŸ¤šŸ©¶
27/08/2026

Isn’t this young splash pullet just divine šŸ–¤šŸ¤šŸ©¶

LET’S TALK ABOUT WATER FOR CHICKSOne question I get asked all the time is:ā€œWhat should I put in my chicks water?ā€ Sugar?...
27/08/2026

LET’S TALK ABOUT WATER FOR CHICKS

One question I get asked all the time is:

ā€œWhat should I put in my chicks water?ā€
Sugar? Salt? Electrolytes? Vitamins? Probiotics? Supplements?

My answer for a normal, healthy chicks is very simple:
Nothing. Just fresh, clean water.

I personally give my chicks fresh, clean water twice a day, and I don’t routinely add supplements to it.

A healthy chick that has come from healthy breeding birds, hatched normally and is being raised on a good quality chick starter should already be getting the nutrition it needs from its feed.

I think we sometimes get so caught up in wanting to give chicks something extra that we forget how important the basics actually are.

Chicks are incredibly good at making their water filthy. Bedding, food and droppings somehow end up in it no matter what you do.

Some of the things I do:
• Use a proper chick drinker rather than an open bowl
• Give fresh water at least twice daily, more often if it becomes dirty
• Keep the water shallow and safe so tiny chicks cannot drown
• Raise the drinker slightly as they grow to help keep bedding and droppings out
• Make sure they never run out of water

And unless there is a reason for it, that’s it.

Electrolytes and poultry vitamin preparations can be very useful for a chick that has been through significant stress, transport, dehydration or illness, or when there is a specific reason to use them.

But I see them as a tool for when they’re actually needed, not something every chick needs every day.

If you have chicks consistently failing to thrive or losing chicks, I would start looking for the underlying problem.

Is the brooder too hot or too cold?
Are there draughts?
Is the bedding damp?
Are they eating properly?
Are they overcrowded ?
Is the starter feed appropriate?
Is there a disease or parasite issue?
Could something be going on with the parents/breeding flock, nutritional deficiencies ? egg quality or incubation issues?

Adding vitamins to the water won’t fix a problem with the actual setup or health of the chicks.

There are obviously times when an individual chick needs extra support, and that’s a completely different situation. But for a normal healthy batch of chicks, I genuinely believe in keeping things simple.

Good breeding birds + good incubation + a clean, correctly set-up brooder + quality chick starter + unlimited fresh clean water.

Those basics will do far more for your chicks than filling their water with a cocktail of supplements.

Sometimes the best thing you can put in your chicks water… is nothing at all. Just keep it clean. 🐄

These black pullets are full of green sheen šŸ–¤šŸ’š
26/08/2026

These black pullets are full of green sheen šŸ–¤šŸ’š

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