05/08/2026
🇨🇾 I’ve been speaking a lot about how new souvlatzidika openings in Athens are increasingly opting for the traditional model, establishing a wave of newcomers that are making tylichta souvlakia the way that the founders of our tradition have been doing so since the mid-20th Century (without the fries, plethora of factory-processed meats and sauces and other commercial developments that spread like wildfire from the end of the 20th Century until now). Examples are O Thymios, I Volvi, Komple, Nicaragua, Petmeza, and, most recently, Tarzan.
O Tatas in Strovolos in Lefkosia is Cyprus’ equivalent of that younger generation proving that you can make your mark with style, individuality and character, but without needing to abandon the very foundations that never needed changing in the first place, and doing a very good job of it for that matter.
Here, it’s one of the better traditional Cypriot pittes of souvlakia I’ve had in Cyprus in the past few years: benchmark-setting pork souvlakia, honourable sheftalies, and the classic tomato, onion, parsley and cucumber filling that you’ll see in Cyprus (except I asked for no krampi/cabbage). All in a notably sturdy, fluffy Pafitiki pitta (as the menu also points out), with compulsory lemon wedge and a well-done tashi on the side. A slightly bigger smila/skewer of pork souvlaki wouldn’t have gone amiss, though.
A touch of character comes in the form of the beers on tap and a trendy modern interior that gives the impression of a youthful steki, but the product lives up to the slogan: ΑΥΘΕΝΤΙΚΟ ΣΟΥΒΛΑΚΙ (AUTHENTIC SOUVLAKI).
The hit-and-miss rhythm of bigger names has probably summarised the state of traditional souvlakia in Cyprus in the past few years, but O Tatas is a hopeful and welcome sign that we’re back on track, and that our national streetfood heritage will remain intact as far as we can see ahead.
ΜΠΡΑΒΟ ΠΕΘΚΙΑ O TATAS 👏
SOUVLAKINATION 🍋
