07/08/2026
July 2005.
My late uncle Bernie was gruff, blunt, unpolished, but as true a Francophile as you’ll ever meet. He lived on rustic wine, boudin noir, and tasty gossip picked up in bars.
Straight after school in England in the early 60s he was taught Russian from zero to fluency in 6 months at an RAF base to eavesdrop on enemy bombers during the Cold War. He ended up speaking 7 European languages fluently and worked as a translator for many governments. The one time I asked if he’d ever worked as a spy he sneered, “why? Who are YOU working for?!”
He encouraged my love of winemaking from a young age and when I went to France in 2005 he gave me the use of his house in Lagorce in the Ardèche, close to where I was working for Burgundy powerhouse Louis Latour.
Bernie’s dream was to retire to the Ardèche and make wine. The vines never really took off, though he did plant some Italian varieties he smuggled into France.
His first house in Lagorce (arrow shows entry) was right on the town square.
He couldn’t cook to save his life but took me to every restaurant he loved, always classic places serving dishes that represented some culinary tradition, from pan-fried foie gras and salty apple slices in Lagorce to the offal classics of Rome’s medieval ghetto.
Bernie wasn’t everyone’s cup of tea but, from decades talking to vignerons in bars after work (and frequently during it), he had a strong understanding of European wine and food culture and shared it with me as if I was the son he never had. For that I’ll always be humbled.
I import as much wine as I can from the Ardèche and it’s thanks to Bernie that this wild part of France is now so strongly supported and appreciated in Australia. It’s a cultural connection I’m proud of.
Oh, and Bernie introduced me to the extraordinary winter truffle markets in Richerenches, across the Rhône Valley. Note the cops everywhere, yet somehow not noticing the boatloads of black market cash changing hands right in front of them!
Bernie’s the bald guy in the last photo, taken at an antiques market I don’t even remember going to with him. Cheers Bernie!