The Wine Writer

02/11/2025

Dom Perignon 2012. I’ve had this wine around a dozen times at tastings but this was the first time at home. White gold the nose was dominated by minerals, yeast, white and geez berries with a touch of blossom. On the palate it was impressive if still quite reserved. Peaches and pears with the velvety texture I expect from Moët were on show, chalk, green citrus, raspberry and cream. Delicate and nuanced, the structure remains taut and precise and there’s abundant freshness on the finish. A long way to go for this wine, I’d drink the 2015 first, it’s a classic Dom Perignon.

03/10/2025

Always a joy, trying Dom Perignon 2012 next to the 2015 was fascinating. The 2012 is far more backward, the peach, pear and green berry supported by noticeable minerality and a glorious tension between fruit and structure. The 2015 seemed much more open and forward, the chalkiness muted and the spice content much subtler. Both are great wines, but having tried the 2012 on a number of occasions over a number of years, it’s shaping up to be an absolute classic.

26/09/2025

I’ve had Krug Rose on about a dozen occasions over the years and I’ve always wondered what all the fuss is about. The first time out I commented that it was a waste of grapes that could have made more Grande Cuvee. Yesterday the penny dropped. Tasting the 22 Edition (29 is the current one) from magnum it all made sense. It needs time. I tasted this against the 29, which was perfectly pleasant but nothing worth writing to mum about, and it was magnificent. Summer pudding and yeast to the nose, with lots of spices and dusty chalk. On the palate it was a gigantic, mouth filling wine. Loaded with red and black berries, minerals, spices and cream, for all its size it had the poise of a ballerina, the precision of a Swiss watch, and the intensity of a solar flare. A brilliant, beguiling wine, I could have happily drunk the lot as each sip revealed something new. You sip, you learn.

10/09/2025

The mystery Mouton…

06/09/2025

Last of the summer wine/first of the autumn wines. The Graham Beck Bubbly Rose is an unbelievably good wine and for the money it’s got to be the best fizz on the UK market. £12 gets you a refined, champagne like wine that’s packed with red berries, creamy yeast, limes, coconut and a touch of spice. So impressive.

03/09/2025

01/09/2025

As samples go, I’ve had worse. I’ve had Quinta do Noval on multiple occasions but never Nacional. This should be quite a moment, just a question of when to open it. Answers on a postcard, please.

29/08/2025

While I count myself as a huge CVNE Vino fan, this was a new wine to me. The Contino Garnacha 2019 is a sensational wine. Cleverly managing to combine Garnacha’s exuberance and joy with its more nuanced, Pinot-like characteristics, you get masses of strawberry and cherry fruit with savoury notes of dried herbs, clay, anise and mint. Multi-layered and full, there’s elegance and refinement too. Drinking beautifully now, I will save some of the rest of the case for another few years as I think this has even more to give.

09/08/2025

Billecart Salmon Sous Bois degorged in July 2023. This has to be one of my favourite oak aged Champagnes. I’ve admired Vilmart for years but feel they take it too far these days. This was wonderful Smoky, with notes of tropical fruits, the nose remains a classic champagne one with plenty of raspberry, citrus, yeast, honey, and dusty chalk. On the palate it was more expansive than regular BS. Honey, passion fruit, mango, and lime sttended the customary berries. Wonderfully textured and long, this is an outstanding wine that cleverly blends classicism with innovation.

02/08/2025

30/07/2025

We are looking forward to our annual Autumn Portfolio tasting, taking place on Monday 15th September. Come and taste a wide variety of wines from our premium portfolio and meet some of our wonderful producers! Scan the QR code or register here: https://us7.list-manage.com/survey?u=b1243c7d0ddfa4ec8f7d6bf53&id=8f921501a7

Please note this tasting is strictly for trade and press only.

27/07/2025

This may well have a few years ahead of it but this is the day for me to enjoy this cracking vintage of Le Difese. The finest ever by far. There's a few bottles remaining available on the website form next week.
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