17/09/2023
We are what we eat.
We are what our food eats!
Part 2
In part 1, I explained how the genetics of an animal, its diet and the health of the soil all influenced the taste of the beef. I would now like to move on to the thorny subject of slaughter and the treatment of the beef animal before, during and after it has been slaughtered.
It is never easy sending an animal to slaughter, especially when they have been with you for several years and I often question the rights and wrongs of it. As with many things in life, it is never black and white, and I’d like to take a few moments, if I may, to discuss some of those grey areas.
I look at my animals, grazing a diverse mix of herbs, grasses and legumes, bees buzzing round their heads, grasshoppers chirruping from deep in the sward, swifts swooping and darting around us with glee and I think about the alternative ways of producing food for the masses.
Sadly, without animals, the land becomes a monocultural desert, drilled with single-variety wheat, barley or potatoes, fertilised and sprayed so frequently that virtually all life – except, ironically, for the pest insects – no longer exists in the fields. Soils become hardened and don’t absorb rainfall. Weeds are killed as soon as they poke their tiny cotyledons out of the dirt. Even animal-free organicfarms are often lifeless deserts, with fossil fuels and cultivation replacing the spray and agrochemical.
My cattle bring life to the land. Their manure plops in satisfying heaps onto the field, drawing in dung beetles and dung flies. Nutrients from the droppings and urine seep into the soil, feeding the soil dwellers and allowing them, in turn, to feed the plants. It’s a beautiful cycle of life and death, and millions of creatures, from the smallest bacteria to the apex predator all continue to live and thrive on my grasslands, because of the existence of herbivores. All this means that the taking of one life – the beef steer – allows myriad other life forms to exist. It’s not a perfect solution but it’s a darn sight more attractive to me than the other ways of producing food.
I have said it’s hard taking an animal to slaughter, and it really is. I always take them to the abattoir myself, as they know me and know the trailer, they’ve likely travelled in it a dozen times between fields. I do this for two reasons: Welfare being one, as I want the animal to be as happy as possible for its whole life, not scared or stressed. But the other reason is eating quality. Stress and adrenaline in an animal really affects the eating quality of the meat and I don’t like to see it for this reason too – we want our animal to produce the highest quality beef its wholesome life deserves.
Once the deed is done, the carcass needs to be treated with care. I mentioned in part 1 that the streaks of fat – known as marbling - within the meat gives it tremendous flavour and the most delicious succulence. During the ageing process – and we dry-age the carcass for 28 days – the layer of subcutaneous fat on the outside is also important, as it protects the meat itself from decomposing and drying out too much. This ageing process is, in our opinion, vital to the flavour of the finished product. As moisture is slowly lost, delicious, beefy flavours are concentrated. Naturally occurring enzymes and other substances start to break down the meat fibres, tenderising the beef. It’s aged in a chiller and the change in the carcass is carefully controlled for the full four weeks.
Of course, the majority of beef available for sale in the UK isn’t aged at all. Supermarkets want to sell you water and ageing goes against this: Drying out the carcass, even by a small percentage, means less money for their greedy coffers (in fact the reverse is true: Supermarkets can legally add up to 5% of water by weight to meat sold in the UK. Ever wondered why the mince you bought recently boiled for ten minutes before it began to fry?)
After the beef carcass has aged, our butcher collects it and starts the skilful process of cutting and jointing. We pack everything in clearly-labelled vacuum packs. If I’m honest, the use of plastic is the one area I wish I could find an alternative for, as I think we waste far too much of the world’s resources. However, it does mean it’s freezer ready; it also avoids leakage into your car on the way home something (and I speak from experience!) we want to avoid at all costs.
If you would like to place an order for a 10kg box of delicious 28-day aged beef, or if you have any questions, please contact me on 07717 505287 – WhatsApp is probably my favoured route though I’ll respond to anything! A box costs £160 and I can deliver locally (orders from further afield may incur a delivery charge though I will always discuss this with you beforehand). Thank you