29/09/2026
We brought the 2018 and 2019 vintages of Qvevris from both Bedeau and Bigotes, from the warehouse in Beaune.
We had kept them in the cellar for a while, because we felt the 2018 vintage was a bit too young upon its initial release, and we also wanted to see how w**es crafted in Qvevris would evolve with age.
While we will share specific notes on each w**e below, our broad impression after tasting through them was divided into two distinct takeaways: what we felt from the influence of the Qvevris, and what we noticed due to the absence of oak barrels.
The pointed shape of the Qvevris, which are buried underground, is designed to easily channel the energy of the earth. (Some might look at this skeptically, but consider the reverse: the reason church and palace roofs feature spires is to easily capture the energy of the sky and the universe). Indeed, in the 2018 vintage, we could directly sense that massive, pulsating energy from the Qvevris.
In the 2019 vintage, however, rather than the presence of the Qvevris, it was the absolute absence of oak barrels that stood out. This lack of barrel influence allowed a more diverse array of elements to shine through, making us truly realize the truth in the saying that Chardonnay itself is a relatively neutral grape, and that its flavor changes dramatically based on its terroir and w**emaking methods.
[2018 Bedeau Qvevris]
Bedeau 2018 was his first release using Qvevris, existing in both barrel-aged and Qvevri-aged versions. Though approachable early on, we kept it in our Beaune cellar to observe its aging potential, especially given the rich, structured nature of the 2018 vintage.
Recent tasting reveals it at about 90% potential. Whether this is the result of using no oak, the variety of fruits we detect is remarkably wide. It’s not quite ‘complex’ in the traditional sense, but rather diverse and abundant. Tannins have softened into a seamless, deep profile, and after seven years, its vitality remains remarkable. The subsequent 2019 Qvevri offers a completely different profile, and both are well worth tasting.
[2018 Bigotes Qvevris]
Bigotes is a great natural w**e classic, made from Chardonnay from the Puligny-Montrachet area, near Volnay and Pommard. The age of the vines is 55 years. Frédéric Cossard produces w**e exclusively from old vines.
Just like its red counterpart, Bedeau Qvevris 2018, the white Bigotes Qvevris 2018 was a w**e packed with rich, explosive fruit flavors. Perhaps this cuvée is the answer to what the buried Qvevris actually do to a w**e. Upon opening, we could intensely feel this energy tightly coiled within. As the w**e breathed, it unfurled and diffused beautifully, telling us a dramatic story.
[2019 Bedeau Qvevris]
While the 2018 is sitting at about 90% potential, the 2019 has reached a full 100%—meaning it is safe to say it has hit its absolute peak. It has the elegant character of a classically aged Burgundy. The texture is seamless, with aromas drifting softly above a deeply concentrated core of pure fruit extract. The fact that its delicate nuances are displayed with such crystal clarity is, once again, perhaps because there is no oak influence to get in the way.
[2019 Bigotes Qvevris]
Just like the contrast between the 2018 and 2019 vintages of Bedeau Qvevris, the vintage difference in Bigotes Qvevris is equally striking. For the white w**e, the 2019 vintage is crisp, sharp, and beautifully structured. It is incredibly dense. There is a delicate mineral vein—perhaps reminiscent of its Puligny origins—that is truly wonderful. While the 2018 vintage made us feel the raw energy drawn from the earth via the Qvevris, the 2019 presents itself with a striking purity, defined by the complete absence of any oak elements.
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