31/12/2025
We had the pleasure of having Valter spend a couple of hours sharing with us the history and passion behind this fourth-generation producer. tipped me off and I had a bottle of Cogno Ravera 2017 during my 2023 trip to Piemonte, and part of me wanted to keep them a secret, but great producers deserve to be celebrated.
Valter, with a glint in his eye, wowed me with their Nascetta del Comune di Novello, a serious, ageable white treated to 50% oak and 50% stainless steel. He said Nascetta needs 5–8 years to show its best, something to keep in mind when browsing whites on a wine list. We tasted several vintages, all fresh and lively with charming aromatics and a savoury finish. The 2023 had a flinty note on the nose, which I loved, followed by sage and rosemary on the palate,
a theme also found in the 2021, which was rounder on the palate.
Cogno are meticulous about protecting their wines from oxidation, and it was the first time I learned that malolactic conversion takes place before primary fermentation on their reds. I also learned that Dolcetto used to be prescribed by doctors, like I need another reason to drink Piemontese reds. Their Langhe Nebbiolo was pale, made by carbonic maceration and whole-cluster fermentation; it was crunchy with raspberry fruit, and I could drink this chilled all summer while lounging by their pool.
Their Barbera d’Alba Pre-Phylloxera, made from ungrafted 130-year-old vines grown on sandy soils, showed oceanic depth and impressive concentration. They only make 1,800 bottles per year. Cogno were the first to put Ravera on the map, and on the label in 1991. The 2021 was stunning, complex and concentrated with seductive fruit.
Their Barolo Bricco Pernice Ravera 2020, an unlabelled riserva made from the Lampia Nebbiolo clone, was layered with baked cherries, wet stones, and rose petals swirling around, cinched by bracing acidity. The Ravera Vigna Elena 2019 was aromatic and lifted, with balanced acidity. The tannins were neatly gift-wrapped with rose and cherry on the finish. These wines took me to the moon 🚀🚀🚀🚀 and have joined my ever-expanding rotation.