aweugo Poultry Farming

aweugo Poultry Farming Raising of birds domestically or commercially, primarily for meat and eggs

17/02/2026

Some farmers say:
👉 “Use charcoal stove!”
Others shout:
👉 “Gas brooder is the only way!”
Then another group says:
👉 “Electric bulb is enough, stop wasting money!”

But here’s the real question… 👀

Are we brooding chicks properly… or are we just following what we saw someone else do? 🤔🐥

Too much heat = stressed, weak chicks.
Low heat = piling up, mortality.
Poor ventilation = slow growth.
Wrong bedding = dirty feed & sickness.

Yet everybody believes their method is the BEST. 😅

So tell me fam…
🔥 Charcoal
💡 Bulb
⛽ Gas
Or 🌞 Natural heat?

Which one has given you the best results and lowest mortality?

Drop your honest experience in the comments… Let’s settle this debate once and for all 👇🐔💬

17/02/2026

Exact 3weeks today

Agrited

09/02/2026

– THAT BAD SMELL IS EATING YOUR MONEY 😷🐔

Let me ask you a question…

Have you ever entered a poultry house and
the smell hit your nose like slap? 🤢

You quickly covered your nose and rushed out.

Now listen carefully 👂
That smell is not just annoying.
That smell is dangerous.

Let me explain it in village language 👵🏾👇

When a house smells bad, it means dirt has stayed too long.

And when dirt stays too long, sickness is already inside.

Chickens breathe that smell every day. They don’t have nose cover. They don’t have choice.

So what happens?

❌ They grow slowly
❌ They fall sick easily
❌ They eat but don’t add weight
❌ Death starts visiting the pen

And your profit? It starts leaking like a basket with holes.

Some farmers say: “It’s normal for poultry to smell.”

No. A poultry house can smell like animals,
but it must not smell like disease.

If your poultry house smells so bad that: – visitors complain
– your eyes water
– your chest feels heavy

Then something is wrong.

💡 What causes the bad smell?

– Wet litter
– Water spilling from drinkers
– Too many birds in small space
– Not changing litter on time
– Poor ventilation

It’s like cooking soup and never washing the pot. After some days, nobody will eat that soup.

🧹 What should you do?

✅ Remove wet litter immediately
✅ Add dry wood shavings
✅ Adjust drinkers to stop spilling
✅ Open windows for fresh air
✅ Reduce overcrowding

Cleanliness is not decoration. It is medicine.

A clean pen: – smells better
– birds breathe well
– birds grow faster
– profit increases

Please… Don’t manage dirt. Don’t get used to bad smell.

That smell you are ignoring today may be the reason you cry tomorrow.

👉 If this message makes sense to you
👉 If you want healthy birds
👉 If you want to farm wisely

Comment this keyword below: CLEAN

Let me know you understand. Let me know you’re ready to change.

And please, share this post. Someone is farming inside smell and doesn’t know it’s killing their birds.

WHY CHICKS DIE IN THE FIRST 2 WEEKSHave you ever bought chicks and thought, “I will just feed them, and everything will ...
28/01/2026

WHY CHICKS DIE IN THE FIRST 2 WEEKS
Have you ever bought chicks and thought, “I will just feed them, and everything will be fine”… only to wake up a few days later and find some dead?
I want you to stop for a moment and listen carefully.
This is not bad luck, and it is not a curse.
It is preventable — if you understand what is really happening in those first 14 days.
🐥 THE FIRST TWO WEEKS ARE CRITICAL
Think of chicks like newborn babies.
They are tiny. Fragile. Sensitive to heat, food, and water.
Most farmers fail here because they do not treat the first days with the respect and care they deserve.
⚠️ COMMON REASONS CHICKS DIE EARLY
1. Cold environment
Chicks cannot keep themselves warm. A cold floor or cold air can kill silently.
2. Dirty water
Water may look clean but can carry germs. A single sip of contaminated water can make many chicks sick.
3. Wrong feed or feeding method
Too much feed, too little feed, or poor-quality feed = weak chicks.
4. Stress
Sudden loud noise, too many hands touching the chicks, overcrowding. Stress = disease and death.
5. No brooder light or poor heat source
Chicks need warmth, especially at night. Without it, they become weak and die.
❤️ SIMPLE WAY TO PROTECT YOUR CHICKS
• Ensure the brooding area is warm (32–35°C for the first week)
• Keep water clean and change it morning and evening
• Feed small amounts frequently with proper chick starter feed
• Keep the area calm and quiet
• Remove weak chicks gently and separately to reduce risk
• Check daily — not occasionally
Remember, the first two weeks decide profit or loss.
😢 WHAT I WANT YOU TO UNDERSTAND
I have seen farmers cry because 50 chicks became 25 in just 3 days.
I have seen beginners give up after losing money unnecessarily.
It is heartbreaking.
But it does not have to happen to you.
With proper care in the first 14 days, your chicks will survive, grow, and make you profit.
If you want the exact step-by-step method to protect chicks in the first 14 days, comment below:
“SAFE CHICKS” 👇
When you comment SAFE CHICKS, I will guide you on feeding, heating, and care so your birds grow healthy and strong.
Your first 2 weeks can make all the difference — don’t gamble with your money and effort.

This is the only solution for spray legs. Nothing will make the bird stand and walk again if the legs are not tied toget...
27/01/2026

This is the only solution for spray legs. Nothing will make the bird stand and walk again if the legs are not tied together.

It should be tied in a way that it can easily walk with it . It should also be checking from time to time to avoid causing injuries to the legs.

Give calcium and multivitamins after that.

04/10/2024

First Day in Brooding.

10/08/2024

What You Need To Know About Broiler Brooding


Brooding is a very crucial stage in poultry farming. What happens before and after the chicks arrive will impact their health, livability, and performance, so it is in our interest to provide day-old chicks with an adequate environment.

There are things we need to put in place before the arrival of the broiler chicks, to make sure they settle in well and prevent problems at a later stage.



Here is what you should do before the chicks' arrival:

Make sure to clean and disinfect your pen or house thoroughly.
Spread litter evenly to a depth of 2-5 cm (0.8-2 inches).
Your feed form should be a dust-free sieved crumb, or 2 mm (0.06 inches) mini pellet.
Pre-heat the pen or house at least 24 hrs before chick arrival.
Arrange the equipment to allow unrestricted access to feed and water.


When the chicks arrive, you should weigh a sample and record their live weight and CV% / Uniformity.

Check the chick vent temperature is between 39.4-40.5 degrees centigrade, and place the chicks evenly onto paper. Ensure feed and water is available and that light intensity is between 30-40 lux.



WHAT TO DO AFTER PLACING THE CHICKS

When the birds have settled into their new environment, check their behavior for 1-2 hours, and adjust the conditions according to chick behavior.

When the chicks are tightly-packed together, it means that they are too cold. They become distressed and noisy.

If they avoid the heat source, it means they are too hot; they become quiet, spread their wings, and pant.

The chicks should neither be too hot nor too cold and evenly-spread across the house/pen.



You should provide ventilation without drafts, to provide fresh air, remove waste gas, excess moisture, and heat.

Supply small and frequent top-up of feed, check water supply is running and that supplementary drinkers contain freshwater.

Check crop fill. In 2 hours, 75% of the birds should have full crop fill, 80% in 4 hours, more than 80% in 8 hours, more than 85% in 12 hours, and more than 95% at 24 hrs.

For best results during brooding, a farmer should buy quality chicks, that are clean after hatch, stand firmly and walk well, alert and active, free of deformities, and vocalize contently.



THE FIRST TEN DAYS

If the paper placed on the floor in the house does not disintegrate naturally, then it should be removed from the pen house from day three (3) onward.

Brooding rings, if used, should be expanded from day three (3) of age, and completely removed at 5-7 days of age.

Endeavor to top up the feed on the paper/feed tray at regular intervals during the first 3 to 4 days.

Birds should be on the main-feeding system by six (6) to seven (7) days of age.

Gradually change to a good quality pellet, once transfer to the main-feeding system is complete.

Provide 23 hours of light for the first seven (7) days to encourage feed and water intake.



FEEDING PROGRAM

A good quality starter feed will support early growth and physiological development. Then target weight, good health, and welfare will be achieved.

Starter formulations should be based primarily on promoting biological performance and profitability, not feed costs.

Starter feed should be from 0 to 10 days of age.

Note that transition from starter to grower feed involves a change in texture and nutrient density and needs to be managed carefully to avoid loss of performance.

Note that: Poor physical feed form will have a negative impact on broiler performance.



DRINKING SYSTEM

Monitor the feed to water ratio daily.

The ideal water temperature should be 18 degrees centigrade - 21 degrees centigrade.

Broilers should not have to travel more than 2 m (6.6 ft) to get water.

The Water level should be 0.6 cm BELOW the top of the drinker until ten (10) days of age. After ten (10) days, there should be 0.6 cm of water in the base of the drinker.

Drinkers should be kept well-maintained and clean at all times.

In hot weather, water consumption of broilers will increase and the drinker lines should be flushed at regular intervals to keep water cool.



DECREASE THE RISK OF DISEASE

During brooding, broilers are susceptible to diseases because their immunity is not strong at a young age, so there are measures that must be taken in other to prevent infection of the birds.

Prevent unauthorized access to the farm.
Shower on to the farm and change clothing.
Maintain a record of visitors.
Wash and sanitize hands and boots when entering and leaving houses.
Clean and disinfect all equipment before bringing in to the house.
Visits the youngest flock first.
Whenever possible use ''all-in/all-out'' placement cycle.
Downtime between flocks will reduce contamination on the farm.
Clean up feed spills as soon as they occur
Maintain an effective rodent/vermin control program.


VACCINATION

Day 1 - ND-VH+IBH120 - Spray on boxes at the hatchery, could be done on the farm.

Day 10 - ND-VH - Drinking water. The Water system should be cleaned prior to vaccination.



OBSERVATIONS AND LIKELY CAUSES

SMALL CHICKS (Day 1-4)

Likely cause:

Weak chicks
Inadequate feeders and drinkers
Inadequate feed and water levels
Equipment location and maintenance issue
Inappropriate brooding temperature and environment




PROBLEM-SOLVING

High early mortality - Causes include:

Poor chick quality: Check the hatchery practice and egg hygiene.
Incorrect brooding: In this case, re-adjust the brooders.
Disease: When faced with this problem, perform post mortem on the dead chicks to know the cause of the disease. Take your veterinary advice.
Appetite: measure and achieve target crop fill levels, check feed availability, amount, and space.

10/08/2024

What You Need To Know About Broiler Brooding


Brooding is a very crucial stage in poultry farming. What happens before and after the chicks arrive will impact their health, livability, and performance, so it is in our interest to provide day-old chicks with an adequate environment.

There are things we need to put in place before the arrival of the broiler chicks, to make sure they settle in well and prevent problems at a later stage.



Here is what you should do before the chicks' arrival:

Make sure to clean and disinfect your pen or house thoroughly.
Spread litter evenly to a depth of 2-5 cm (0.8-2 inches).
Your feed form should be a dust-free sieved crumb, or 2 mm (0.06 inches) mini pellet.
Pre-heat the pen or house at least 24 hrs before chick arrival.
Arrange the equipment to allow unrestricted access to feed and water.


When the chicks arrive, you should weigh a sample and record their live weight and CV% / Uniformity.

Check the chick vent temperature is between 39.4-40.5 degrees centigrade, and place the chicks evenly onto paper. Ensure feed and water is available and that light intensity is between 30-40 lux.



WHAT TO DO AFTER PLACING THE CHICKS

When the birds have settled into their new environment, check their behavior for 1-2 hours, and adjust the conditions according to chick behavior.

When the chicks are tightly-packed together, it means that they are too cold. They become distressed and noisy.

If they avoid the heat source, it means they are too hot; they become quiet, spread their wings, and pant.

The chicks should neither be too hot nor too cold and evenly-spread across the house/pen.



You should provide ventilation without drafts, to provide fresh air, remove waste gas, excess moisture, and heat.

Supply small and frequent top-up of feed, check water supply is running and that supplementary drinkers contain freshwater.

Check crop fill. In 2 hours, 75% of the birds should have full crop fill, 80% in 4 hours, more than 80% in 8 hours, more than 85% in 12 hours, and more than 95% at 24 hrs.

For best results during brooding, a farmer should buy quality chicks, that are clean after hatch, stand firmly and walk well, alert and active, free of deformities, and vocalize contently.



THE FIRST TEN DAYS

If the paper placed on the floor in the house does not disintegrate naturally, then it should be removed from the pen house from day three (3) onward.

Brooding rings, if used, should be expanded from day three (3) of age, and completely removed at 5-7 days of age.

Endeavor to top up the feed on the paper/feed tray at regular intervals during the first 3 to 4 days.

Birds should be on the main-feeding system by six (6) to seven (7) days of age.

Gradually change to a good quality pellet, once transfer to the main-feeding system is complete.

Provide 23 hours of light for the first seven (7) days to encourage feed and water intake.



FEEDING PROGRAM

A good quality starter feed will support early growth and physiological development. Then target weight, good health, and welfare will be achieved.

Starter formulations should be based primarily on promoting biological performance and profitability, not feed costs.

Starter feed should be from 0 to 10 days of age.

Note that transition from starter to grower feed involves a change in texture and nutrient density and needs to be managed carefully to avoid loss of performance.

Note that: Poor physical feed form will have a negative impact on broiler performance.



DRINKING SYSTEM

Monitor the feed to water ratio daily.

The ideal water temperature should be 18 degrees centigrade - 21 degrees centigrade.

Broilers should not have to travel more than 2 m (6.6 ft) to get water.

The Water level should be 0.6 cm BELOW the top of the drinker until ten (10) days of age. After ten (10) days, there should be 0.6 cm of water in the base of the drinker.

Drinkers should be kept well-maintained and clean at all times.

In hot weather, water consumption of broilers will increase and the drinker lines should be flushed at regular intervals to keep water cool.



DECREASE THE RISK OF DISEASE

During brooding, broilers are susceptible to diseases because their immunity is not strong at a young age, so there are measures that must be taken in other to prevent infection of the birds.

Prevent unauthorized access to the farm.
Shower on to the farm and change clothing.
Maintain a record of visitors.
Wash and sanitize hands and boots when entering and leaving houses.
Clean and disinfect all equipment before bringing in to the house.
Visits the youngest flock first.
Whenever possible use ''all-in/all-out'' placement cycle.
Downtime between flocks will reduce contamination on the farm.
Clean up feed spills as soon as they occur
Maintain an effective rodent/vermin control program.


VACCINATION

Day 1 - ND-VH+IBH120 - Spray on boxes at the hatchery, could be done on the farm.

Day 10 - ND-VH - Drinking water. The Water system should be cleaned prior to vaccination.



OBSERVATIONS AND LIKELY CAUSES

SMALL CHICKS (Day 1-4)

Likely cause:

Weak chicks
Inadequate feeders and drinkers
Inadequate feed and water levels
Equipment location and maintenance issue
Inappropriate brooding temperature and environment




PROBLEM-SOLVING

High early mortality - Causes include:

Poor chick quality: Check the hatchery practice and egg hygiene.
Incorrect brooding: In this case, re-adjust the brooders.
Disease: When faced with this problem, perform post mortem on the dead chicks to know the cause of the disease. Take your veterinary advice.
Appetite: measure and achieve target crop fill levels, check feed availability, amount, and space.


10/08/2024

8 ITEMS YOU CAN PROVIDE TO KEEP YOUR CHICKENS HAPPY

It’s exciting to see more and more families choosing to raise backyard chickens. Chickens are a great way to get your family involved in producing your own food because they’re easy to care for and have surprisingly wonderful personalities. That said, there’s more to keeping chickens than providing them with good food, water, and housing. Chickens that are kept active and busy are chickens that are healthy and happy, creating less work and more enjoyment for you. Here are a few ways you can keep your chickens engaged even if you have a small backyard.

1. Provide Stumps
For some reason, chickens love to hop up and walk on stumps. As stumps rot, they’re also an excellent place for chickens to find bugs — one of their favorite snacks. Including a few stumps in the chicken run or using them to border a path is a great way to keep your chickens busy.

2. Plant Brush
While chickens are often seen as farmyard animals, they’re actually a forest-dwelling species. Just like their closest living ancestors, jungle fowl, chickens love to hang out underbrush and bushes. You can plant trees or shrubs in their run — just be sure to protect the base of each plants as chickens tend to scratch and dig up roots. Alternatively, you can use dead material like old Christmas trees or branches from pruning your trees to create a little chicken fort.

3. Compost in the Chicken Yard
Placing your compost pile in your chicken yard can be a great way to keep chickens entertained and lower your feed bill. The chickens will help you make compost even faster by turning the compost over as they look for insects. They’ll also contribute their manure. To keep the chickens from spreading compost across the entire yard, place your compost within a fence or bin that the chickens can easily hop into but not push material out of.

4. Hang a Chicken Swing
It may sound a bit odd, but chickens love to perch on things and will in fact perch on swings. You can make a simple swing with just a bit of rope and a branch. Just wait — you’ll have as much fun watching the chickens on the swing as they’ll have swinging.

5. Give Treats
Just like other animals, chickens love treats. Great treat options include cooked oatmeal, greens like kale and spinach, pumpkin, and scratch grains. You can also occasionally hang things like heads of cabbage or suet blocks in their run for the chickens to peck.

6. Grow Fodder
If you don’t have a large enough property to offer your chickens a constant supply of fresh grass, you might consider growing fodder. Fodder is simply trays of sprouted seeds. Depending on the variety, such as barley, you’ll need to soak the seeds and then continue to rinse them and keep them moist for several days before they sprout. Growing fodder is also a great winter activity to bring some green to your home and your chickens!

7. Create Dust Baths
Dust baths are even more important than other chicken “toys.” Through dust bathing, chickens clean their feathers and keep themselves free from external parasites like mites. A dust bath doesn’t need to be anything special — just a spot where your chickens can always access dry dirt. Some people fill old tires, containers, or even a circle of logs or rocks within the coop or run.

8. Build a Run
Chickens need space to move. Even if you have a small backyard or don’t want to deal with chicken manure throughout the backyard, if you’re going to keep chickens, you need to provide them with space. Having space to explore, fresh grass available, and insects to eat will help you keep your flock healthy.

You can find more information on how to care for your backyard chickens with this note on bio-security. Or come visit Homestead Gardens to speak with an expert.

Address

Qua Iboe Church Beside White House, After Magic FM Aba, Along Opobo Road Aba
Aba
450221

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