Ritdun Integrated Farms

Ritdun Integrated Farms Ritdun Integrated Farm Resources is an Agricultural centre and hub located in Jos, Plateau State.

The Life Cycle of a Grapevine.Plants do pass through life and seasons just as humans, after all they are living things. ...
01/08/2026

The Life Cycle of a Grapevine.

Plants do pass through life and seasons just as humans, after all they are living things. At certain times of the year, grapevines are beautiful to behold, at other times, you are only left with dry and fallen leaves with just the canes. It is usual and knowing what to do at every stage is imortant in nurturing your grapevine.

The first thing you need to know about growing grapevines is the development of the vine i.e maintain that single stem in the early life of the grape to develop the vine, that is why it is called a grapevine. Early branching of a grapevine is counterproductive because energy is dissipated which slows or delay when you will see the first fruit set.

Secondly, spend the first one -two years nurturing your grapevine. Depending on your weather you may see fruit in one and half years or two years or even more. Nurturing through adequate watering and fertilising(manure application) especially during the dry season is also a factor.

The life cycle of a grapevine moves through distinct seasonal stages, starting with spring bud break, moving through flowering, summer ripening, autumn harvest, and winter dormancy. Over its multi-decade lifespan, a healthy vine matures and produces fruit for 30 to 50 years or more.

Spring: (Early March through May) Awakening and Growth
Tiny buds swell and open into small green shoots as temperatures rise.Shoot and Leaf Growth: Shoots elongate rapidly, forming a leafy canopy that uses sunlight to create energy via photosynthesis. at this time your grapes is completely green.
Flowering: Small clusters of tiny white flowers emerge and self-pollinate without needing bees or wind.

Summer (June- August): Development and Ripening Fruit Set: Pollinated flowers drop their tiny caps and turn into hard, small green berries.Veraison: Berries soften, swell with water, and change color (red grapes turn purple or red, white grapes turn translucent yellow).Maturation: Sugars increase inside the berries while acids decrease.

Autumn: (September-November) Harvest and Leaf FallHarvest: Grapes reach optimal sugar, flavor, and acid balance and are picked by hand or machineLeaf Fall: Leaves change color and drop off as the vine stops growing and begins storing nutrients in its roots.

Winter(December-January):
Rest Dormancy: The bare vine rests and conserves energy through the cold months.
Pruning: Farmers trim old wood and shape the vine in late winter to prepare for the next season's growth.

Manuring
The best manure for grapevines is well-rotted, fully composted farmyard manure (such as aged cow, horse, or poultry manure mixed with straw). Raw or fresh manure should never be used because it can burn the plant roots with high ammonia and introduce unwanted w**d seeds.

In Summary the Lifecycle of a grapevine is bud break - leaf growth - flowering - fruit set - harvest - leaf drop - pruning

Please note that the seasons may vary from region to region, so you need to understand your weather to get the best out of your grapevines. Pruning should always be done before spring(December to early February) or after summer(Late Ausgust-early October).

The grapevine signals you when it is ready for pruning by shedding it leaves. Also note that grapevine fruiting during the rains comes with alot of challenges such as fungi infection so prune at the appropriate time so that the tree can flower and fruit before the heavy rains or prune when the rains are given way by late August to early October. Like I said, master your climate changes and the response of your grapevine.

Also note rhat some people prune their grapevines twice in a year however commercial farmers stick to just one fruiting season.

I trust this helps someone trying to grow grapevines

Feel free to reach out to us with your questions on growing grapevines.

We remain your authentic source of exotic fruit seedlings

Compare And Contrast Anna And Wambugu Apples.What are their similarities.?Anna and Wambugu are both popular apple variet...
30/07/2026

Compare And Contrast Anna And Wambugu Apples.

What are their similarities.?
Anna and Wambugu are both popular apple varieties known for thriving in warm, tropical, and subtropical climates where traditional apples fail. They are good for the Nigerian climate and other countries with little to no winter .

They share high resilience, low winter chill requirements, and early maturity when grown as grafted trees.

Growing Climate and Adaptability

Low chill needs: Both grow well in regions with mild or absent winters.

Heat tolerance: Both varieties adapt to hot tropical and subtropical weather.

Versatile soil growth: Both perform well across diverse soil types with basic organic manure and care.

Farming and Orchard Performance

Early production: Both start bearing fruit much faster than standard temperate apple trees (often within 1 to 2 years).

Cross-pollination partners: Planting Anna and Wambugu near each other in an orchard helps improve overall fruit set and quality.

Differences

The Anna apple is round-conical with 5 distinct points at the base, offering a sweet, crisp, and mildly tangy flavor.

The Wambugu apple is more uniform, round to slightly oblong with a thicker skin, offering a sweet flavor with mild acidity and a very crisp, dense bite.

Both are popular low-chill varieties suited for warmer climates.

Shape and Appearance Differences

Anna Apple:

Shape: Round to conical with sloping shoulders that taper to a narrow, flattened base. Features five distinct k***s or points on the bottom.

Size: Generally small to medium (6 to 7 cm in diameter).

Skin/Color: Light yellow-green base with a prominent red or pinkish blush on the side exposed to the sun.

Wambugu Apple:

Shape: Distinctly round to slightly oblong or oval. It maintains a very uniform, symmetrical look.

Size: Medium to large (ranging from 150 to 250 grams).

Skin/Color: Thicker, robust skin that shifts from greenish when immature to a vibrant deep red or red-orange blush over yellow-green when ripe.

Taste and Texture Differences

Anna Apple:

Taste: Sweet with a distinct, refreshing tangy or mildly tart edge (balanced sweet-tart mix).

Texture: Crisp and succulent when first ripe, but can quickly turn soft or slightly mealy if left too long on the tree or stored past its peak.

Wambugu Apple:

Taste: Sweet with very low, mild acidity; it is often described as less tart and having an aromatic, sweet-leaning flavor profile similar to classic commercial apples.

Texture: Exceptionally firm, crisp, and juicy with a heavy crunch. The thicker skin gives it a sturdier bite and better shelf life.

Sometimes it is really difficult to differentiate them physically except you are sure from the source you got it.

Order your grafted Anna and Wambugu Apple seedlings and other exotic seedlings from Ritdun

Contact us on WhatsApp

https://wa.me/message/UNZ42CY3V2BVI1

Types of Manure. The other day we were discussing the merits and demerits of inorganic fertilisers and manure. What stoo...
22/07/2026

Types of Manure.

The other day we were discussing the merits and demerits of inorganic fertilisers and manure. What stood out was the fact tbat manure improves your soil in the long run while inorganic fertilisers merely give you quick results on the crops you cultivate.

Animal manure can improve soil structure, support beneficial microorganisms, and provide valuable nutrients. However, each type has a different strength and should be used carefully.

Let us take a look at the various types of manure

Cow manure
Rich in microorganisms and useful for improving poor soil. It works best when thoroughly composted before being mixed into garden beds.

Chicken manure
Very high in nitrogen and extremely concentrated. Use only small amounts and preferably compost it first to avoid burning plant roots.

Horse manure
Lower in nitrogen and rich in fibrous material. It is useful in compost piles, as a soil conditioner, or as mulch after it has aged properly.

Sheep manure
Well balanced and suitable for many garden plants. Add it to compost or work aged manure into the soil before planting.

Rabbit manure
Nutrient-rich and gentle enough to use more directly than many other manures. It can be added around plants or mixed into compost, while also feeding earthworms.

Bat guano
Highly concentrated in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Use it sparingly in compost or for plants that need an extra nutrient boost.

Tips on the use of manure

Use well-rotted or properly composted manure whenever possible.
Apply it in autumn or early spring before planting.
Keep fresh manure away from roots, stems, and edible crops.
Water after application to help nutrients move into the soil.
Use concentrated manures, especially chicken manure and bat guano, only in small amounts.

Learn to improve your soil through the use of manure rather than solely depending on fertilisers.

Like the saying, eat food as medicine or you will be forced to live on medicine as food.

Fertilisers are medicine to plants while manure is food to the soil that reduces your dependence on the medicine.

Remember to order your exotic fruits seedlings from Ritdun Integrated Farms and keep following us.

You can place your orders on our WhatsApp
https://wa.me/message/UNZ42CY3V2BVI1

A Noble Emerging TrendFor two consecutive years a friend donate plants at the Speech and Prize Giving Day of a Secondary...
16/07/2026

A Noble Emerging Trend

For two consecutive years a friend donate plants at the Speech and Prize Giving Day of a Secondary School in Jos, Plateau State.

The school is developing a culture amongst it's students to cultivate a good attitude towards horticulture.

Ritdun Integrated Farms will continue to encourage and promote this noble cause.

Today we delivered another set of fruit trees to the school against this year's event.

Let us keep planting more trees especially fruit tress that will eventually benefit individuals and communities in many ways and many years to come.

There is no reason for a boarding school with adequate land mass not to grow some of it's food especially fruit trees and vegetables.

Let us not just teach but demonstrate some of the things we teach.

Thumps up to the donor

Stop The Procrastination And Take Action Today
14/07/2026

Stop The Procrastination And Take Action Today

What Are The Determinants Of  The Size Of A Fruit.Severally, we've been asked why are the sizes of   exotic fruits like ...
11/07/2026

What Are The Determinants Of The Size Of A Fruit.

Severally, we've been asked why are the sizes of exotic fruits like apples, pomegranates, grapes, etc grown in Nigeria and by extension in the tropics smaller in sizes.

We have never shy away from this, today we want to look at the factors that determine the sizes of your fruit. These factors are not merely theoretical but factual.

There are principally 4 factors, the first and perhaps the most crucial is the make up of the seeds or seedlings which you cannot do anything about except to source for the improved seeds or seedlings, the other 3 can be controlled by man.

1. Genetics - The Ceiling.
Every variety has a max size written in its DNA or makeup.
A local mangoe won’t ever get as big as as the improved varieties no matter what you do.
A cherry tomato won’t become a beefsteak.
In choosing your seeds or seedlings, this is crucial but it accounts for just 30-40 percent for the size of the fruit, meaning the role we play account for between 60 - 70 percent. This is the cheering news. So what are the other factors.

2. Cell Division Phase - The First 3-4 Weeks After Flowering*
This is the most critical window most people miss.
Right after pollination, the fruit makes all the cells it will ever have. More cells = bigger fruit later.

So what drives cell division:
*Water*: Consistent moisture. 1 dry spell here = permanently smaller fruit.
*Nitrogen + Boron + Zinc*: Needed for cell division. A light manure/compost base + small NPK at fruit set helps.
*Good pollination*: Poor pollination = fewer cells to start with.
Mess this up and no amount of later feeding will make the fruit big.

*What truly determines the size of a fruit* comes down to 4 things happening at the same time. You can control 3 of them.

Think of fruit size like this: *Genetics sets the ceiling. Everything else decides how close you get to that ceiling.*

*2. Cell Division Phase - The First 3-4 Weeks After Flowering*
This is the most critical window most people miss.
Right after pollination, the fruit makes all the cells it will ever have. More cells = bigger fruit later.
*What drives cell division:*
- *Water*: Consistent moisture. 1 dry spell here = permanently smaller fruit.
- *Nitrogen + Boron + Zinc*: Needed for cell division. A light manure/compost base + small NPK at fruit set helps.
- *Good pollination*: Poor pollination = fewer cells to start with.
Mess this up

*3. Cell Expansion Phase - Weeks 4 to Harvest*
Now the cells you made just fill up with water, sugars, and nutrients.
*What drives expansion:
- *Water*: #1 factor. Inconsistent watering = fruit cracks, stays small, or drops. Mulch is huge here.
- *Potassium (K) + Magnesium*: K moves sugars into the fruit. That’s what gives size + sweetness. Use manure, wood ash, or NPK with high K during this phase.
- *Sunlight + Leaves*: Leaves are the factory. 1 healthy leaf can support ∼6-8 fruits. Too many fruits, or defoliation from disease, = small fruit.
*Thinning*: sometimes we love seeing plenty fruits set but that will eventhally translate to smaller sizes because of the shared energy. The tree only has so much energy. Fewer fruits = bigger fruits.

*4. Competition + Stress*
- *Too many fruits*: The tree splits energy. Thinning early = bigger fruit.
- *Pests/disease*: A stressed plant aborts or stunts fruit.
- *Root competition/w**ds*: W**ds steal water and nutrients right when fruit is sizing.
- *Temperature*: Extreme heat or cold during cell division/expansion limits size.

In summary, The Simple Formula for Bigger Fruit*
**Phase** **Do This**
**Before flowering** Build soil with manure/compost. Healthy soil = healthy flowers.
**Fruit
1. *Pick the right variety* - genetics sets the max.
2. *Water consistency* - especially during fruit set and sizing. This is where most size is lost.
3. *Feed for the stage* - N early for size of cells, K later for filling them.
4. *Don’t overload the plant* - thin fruit, keep leaves healthy.

At Ritdun Integrated Farms, we specialise in meeting the first condition which is providing the type of seeds and seedlings that are improved.

We also owe it to you to pass information that will improve your gardening experience.

Fertiliser, Manure or BothThis  is certainly  a choice between quick feed vs. long-term soil building or sometimes  stri...
06/07/2026

Fertiliser, Manure or Both

This is certainly a choice between quick feed vs. long-term soil building or sometimes striving to achieve the two.

Most farms with staying power use both, but for different reasons.

Think of it like this: Fertiliser is food. Manure is food, medicine and a house for microbes.

A. Inorganic/ Synthetic Fertiliser
NPK, Urea, SSP, etc.

Advantages
Fast Effect: Nutrients are plant-available immediately. Good for a crop that’s yellowing or fruiting now.

Precise ratios: You can target exact N-P-K needs. E.g. more K for pomegranates during fruiting.

Clean and easy to store: No smell, less bulk, easy to measure per hectare.

Disadvantages
No soil building : Simply feeds the plant, not the soil as such you keep relying on it year after year. . Use it alone for years and soil becomes hard, low in organic matter, and addicted.

Leaches easily: If rains are heavy or you over-apply, washes away. Money and nutrients are depleted
Can burn plants
Too much, especially Urea, damages roots in dry soil.

Best for: Correcting deficiencies fast, top-dressing a fruiting crop, or when you need yield this season.

B. Organic Manure
Cow, poultry, goat, compost, composted household waste.

Advantages
- Builds staying power: Adds organic matter → better water-holding, aeration, and microbial life. Soil gets better every year, not worse.

- Slow release nutrients: N-P-K + micronutrients release over months. Less leaching, less burn risk.

- Improves soil structure: Makes Plateau’s soils looser, so roots and water pe*****te easier in dry season.

- Disease suppression: Healthy microbes from manure help plants fight soil-borne disease.

Disadvantages
Slow: Takes weeks to months to break down. Won’t fix a hungry crop this week.

- Bulky + labor: You need a lot per hectare vs. a bag of NPK.
- Variable quality: Nutrient content depends on animal diet, age of manure, how it was stored. Fresh poultry manure can burn plants.
- W**d seeds/pathogens: If not well-composted, you can bring w**ds

Best for: Baseline fertility, improving soil every season, mulching trees like pomegranate.

So what is the way forward considering the two options.

The Smart Choice for Staying Power: Use Both

This is what most horticulturists do.

Build soil for years :Manure/compost as base before planting.

Feed crop right now. Small, targeted fertiliser top-dress. E.g. NPK 15:15:15 at planting, then K-rich at fruiting.

Fruit trees
Manure/compost around the drip line yearly + light fertiliser when fruiting.

Vegetables/potatoes
Compost in the bed + small NPK side-dress at tuber bulking.

Rule of Thumb
if you choose manure:

1. Compost it first for 4-8 weeks, especially poultry/goat. Fresh ones are too hot, too many w**ds, risk to food safety.

2. Apply before rains or water it in, so nutrients don’t volatilize.

3. Don’t overdo poultry manure on leafy greens — too much N = lots of leaves, little tuber/fruit.

If you only pick one: pick manure/compost for long-term farms/orchards. If you need food on the table now: use fertiliser, but start building manure/compost so you’re less dependent later.This is the road to organic farming. Manure is the consistent deposit into your soil bank.

Grow your fruit trees with this understanding.

At Ritdun Integrated Farms , beyond selling our seedlings we are committed to sharing knowledge on how to grow them

Order your exotic fruit seedlings from us
and keep following.

The Benefits of PomegranatesMany people ask two important questions about pomegranatesHow are  they eaten and what are t...
02/07/2026

The Benefits of Pomegranates

Many people ask two important questions about pomegranates

How are they eaten and what are the health benefits to the body?

How Are Pomegranates Eaten?

Pomegranates are eaten by extracting their juicy, sweet-tart seeds (called arils) from the inedible, bitter rind and white membrane. i. e the skin and the white inner membrane are not usually the priority but the seeds/arils and juice.
The white pith though edible is bitter.

The arils/seeds can be eaten raw, juiced, tossed into salads, blended into smoothies, or sprinkled over yogurt and oatmeal.

How to Eat Them

Extracting the arils can be messy
You can simply cut it into halves and extract the seeds, be sure you don't loose the juice as well by cutting it over a bowl, another popular, low-mess method is to cut the fruit into sections and gently separate them while fully submerged in a bowl of water. The edible arils will sink to the bottom, while the bitter membrane floats to the top, allowing you to easily skim it off and strain the seeds. The only problem with this method is that the juice gets highly diluted with water.

What are the benefits to the body

Pomegranates are nutrient-dense and have been used for both food and traditional medicine for centuries. The benefits mostly come from their antioxidants, vitamins, and fiber.

Major Nutritional Benefits
What it does: Helps fight oxidative stress and inflammation in the body.

Heart & Blood Vessel Support
Help improve blood flow and may help lower blood pressure.

Studies suggest regular pomegranate juice may help reduce "bad" cholesterol oxidation.

Immune support and collagen production.
Important for blood clotting and bone health. It is also Important for cell growth.Support nerves, bones, and energy.

Fiber for Gut Health
Most of it is from the edible seeds.
Helps digestion, feeds gut bacteria, and increases satiety so you feel full longer.

Anti-Inflammatory.
It helps reduce markers of inflammation. That’s why they’re studied for joint health and metabolic health.
It is also low in Calories, .

Things to Note
The Juice has the antioxidants but almost no fiber, and is higher in sugar. Whole arils/seeds give you fiber and the same polyphenols.

The white pith is edible and also has polyphenols, though it’s bitter.

Drug interactions
Pomegranate juice can interact with some blood pressure and cholesterol meds, similar to grapefruit. Check with a doctor if you’re on medication.

Finally consider pomegranates as a rich source of fiber and antioxidant. The darker the arils, the higher the antioxidant content no wonder most people prefer that.

Start thinking of adding pomegranates to your diet, or growing them on your farm and gardens today.

Contact us for your pomegranates fruit and seedlings to plant. You can grow your pomegranates even in containers.

Some Facts About  Pomegranates.In terms of value and nutrition, pomegranates are basically theSame however there are var...
29/06/2026

Some Facts About Pomegranates.

In terms of value and nutrition, pomegranates are basically the
Same however there are variations in colour both externally and internally
Sometimes people confuse ripeness of pomegranates with their colors but it is not true.

Pomegranate color varies a lot, and it actually tells you something about the variety, ripeness, and flavor. It shows up in 3 places:

Skin/rind,
Arils/seeds
Juice

1. Skin/Rind Color - the outside
This is the first thing you notice at the market .

Yellowish-green to cream*: Varieties like ‘White Pomegranate’ or ‘Golden Globe’. Usually thinner skin, milder fruit.

Pink to bright red: Most common. ‘Wonderful’, ‘Eversweet’, ‘Mollar de Elche’. The classic “red” pomegranate.

Deep crimson to burgundy: ‘Parfianka’, ‘Haku Botan’. High anthocyanin content. Often sun-exposed sides are darker
Dark mahogany to almost black:
Black Pomegranate’ from Iran/Afghanistan. The skin looks very dark, but the inside isn’t black.

2. Aril/Seed Color - the edible part
This is what matters most for taste and use.

Light pink to medium red:’. Sweet-tart balance. Great for fresh eating.

Ruby red to deep garnetMore tart, more juice, stronger. Best for juice because of the color.

3. Juice Color
It mirrors the aril color.
Pale pink/straw-colored: From white/pink arils. Milder, less staining.

Deep red: From dark arils. Richer, more tannic, and will stain fabric fast.

What causes the color differences?

1. Genetics: Variety is the first thing. A ‘White’ pomegranate will never turn dark red no matter how ripe.

2. Anthocyanins: These are the red/purple pigments. More sun + cooler night temps during ripening = darker color.

3. Ripeness: Most red varieties do get deeper in color as they mature, but skin color alone isn’t always a reliable ripeness indicator.

Quick rule of thumb: Lighter = sweeter, milder. Darker red = more tart, more antioxidants, better for juice.

Pomegranates can be planted on the ground or in containers.

Order your pomegranates fruits and seedlings today.

Message Ritdun integrated Farms on WhatsApp. https://wa.me/message/UNZ42CY3V2BVI1

I support this with everything in me
28/06/2026

I support this with everything in me

Address

Adjacent Benbin Guest House, Near Lawrak Hospital, Kangang Road, Behind Dadin Kowa
Jos
930

Telephone

+2348060997792

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