14/06/2026
It's a perfect sunny day to catch up on pruning the pip and stone fruit trees. Pruning is done early on a dry day as The cuts need to be dry before evening dew. Most people use pruning paste on cuts but i haven't found a need to.
This plum tree had root stock growing from below the graft so it's first to get the chop.
Next i look at the tree as a whole and decide which branches are staying.
Then chop off any obvious larger branches that need to go with the loppers.
Now get in there with seccateurs and remove:
any damaged or dead branches,
any growing in towards the centre,
Branches growing downwards,
Crossing or rubbing another branch,
And branches growing at a sharp angle or too wide an angle as they will break when loaded with heavy fruit.
Stand back and take a look at the tree as a whole again.
Many of my fruit trees will need several years to become the shape i want. Don't do it all at once as more than 30% of the tree being pruned can give it a shock.
That central branch in my first photo will be removed next year straight after harvest.
The shape might be dictated by location. For example if it overlaps where i need to mow a path, or whether it shades another tree, this needs consideration.
I keep my fruit trees short enough to pick the fruit from standing on the ground. No ladders for me thanks. And I don't want thousands of fruits-i want nutritious, tasty, large fruit, so pruning (and feeding) helps achieve the goal.
Fig trees are done at the coldest time-for me that's late June. And citrus straight after harvest. Grapes were pruned straight after harvest in Autumn.
The best resource i have found is Kath Irvines pruning book. Its beautifully simple and local to nz conditions.
