23/02/2026
We've lost a so much genetic diversity in vege - somewhere around 80% - since industrialisation.
Modern plant breeding has improved yields, management efficiency & disease resistance. For those following the incoming relaxation on GMO legislation, GMOs will partially focus on pesticide & herbicide resistance (with all the environmental issues attached).
Modern breeding focusses on the needs of convoluted, globalised supply chains. Produce has to store for a long time & travel huge distances. The commodification of kai + our increasing disconnect from kai systems means that uniformity is key - wonky carrots don't sell very well.
The loss of our heirloom varieties comes at the cost of flavour, texture + often nutritional value - e.g. modern tomatoes lack tetra-cis-lycopene.
Breeding is typically hybridised, meaning growers can't save their own seed - you have to keep purchasing from seed companies. This isn't a slight on work seed producers do - it is technical, skilled work.
But a localised kai system, where eaters are connected to growers & whenua, doesn't have the same pressure. We CAN grow some heirlooms. Kai is mostly harvested & collected/delivered the same day - it doesn't need to survive forklifts, trucks, planes & boats.
Complicated industrial supply chains need firm tomatoes to survive this - which is why supermarket tomatoes are often pretty bland & "mealy."
So why don't we grow more heirlooms?
An example from last year: an heirloom zucchini we trialled yielded 90% less than a modern variety. It's hard enough to earn a fair wage. We can't increase prices 10x to cover increased labour cost in management, reduced yield, increased risk from diseasess.
BUT we're always trialing a few heirlooms. This season is edamame, pumpkins + squash trials. Alongside our usual heirloom radicchio, tomatillo, chillies, tomatoes & collards. It’s a commitment to better kai & a step away from dependence on the trappings of industrial kai. Varieties that yield well-enough & are able to command a fair price (e.g. some are willing to pay more for the improved flavour + appearance of heirloom tomatoes), will make it into the crop plan the next season.