08/06/2026
DAY 1️⃣1️⃣ ON THE CAMINO
Ansião to Ribeira de Alcalamouque
Monday 8 June 2026
Another day wandering through forests, tiny villages and quiet country roads.
Before leaving this morning I had a mission, the post office.
I can now confidently report that the Portuguese postal system is perhaps not Portugal's greatest achievement. What should have been a simple task turned into a 45 minute exercise involving a rather cross teller, a queue of increasingly impatient locals, and one small complication. Apparently posting something from Portugal is much easier if you actually have a Portuguese address. I didn't. The resulting discussion went on for quite some time while dozens of people waited behind me. By the end of it I was definitely feeling the fear. 😱
One thing I've realised on this Camino is that while there are plenty of villages marked between the main stages, many aren't really stopping points. Looking at the map beforehand it seemed like the days could easily be shortened if needed. In reality, a lot of these places are just a handful of houses with no accommodation, no café and sometimes not even a shop. What looks flexible on paper isn't always that flexible once you're out here walking.
One very random petrol station appeared like a mirage this afternoon. I celebrated with a cold Fanta and was immediately reminded why I rarely drink it. Why is it so sweet 🤮
The excitement of the day arrived in the form of my first large snake. Walking through a tiny village I startled it as it lay sunning itself on a rocky garden edge. The snake dropped straight onto the path directly in front of me. Having already seen several flattened snakes on roads during the walk, I'd been keeping an eye out, but seeing one alive was a different matter entirely. It raised its head, hissed, then disappeared off the path before stopping, turning and hissing again as if making its feelings very clear. I briefly considered taking a photo but decided not wetting myself was probably the higher priority.
The encounter did little for the nerves when the Camino soon led through a long stretch of freshly cut grass. My walking poles suddenly became percussion instruments as I enthusiastically banged my way along the path. The planned forest lunch stop was quickly abandoned.
Tonight I'm staying at a farmstay run by a Malaysian Dutch family and dinner turned out to be one of the highlights of the day. There was a gado gado salad specially made without satay, chicken and corn soup, and watermelon to finish. After weeks of cafés, restaurants and trail food, a home cooked meal felt like a real treat.
The conversation around the table was just as enjoyable. I also got to meet Cinta, the family's ten year old daughter, who is completely at ease with the constant stream of pilgrims passing through. Having strangers from around the world appear at the dinner table seems perfectly normal to her.
This morning I was standing in a post office queue wondering if I'd ever escape. This evening I was sharing dinner with a Malaysian Dutch family I'd never met before. The Camino has a way of doing that.
