18/08/2026
In 1822, someone filled a barrel in southern Spain with wine and sealed it.
Two hundred years later, it's still there. And the wine inside is still ageing.
This is Sherry, one of the most misunderstood and underappreciated wine styles in the world. Not the sweet, dusty bottle your grandmother kept in a cupboard. Something completely different. Bone dry, intensely complex, aged under a living veil of yeast that protects it from oxygen and gives it a character unlike anything else in wine.
Michel Rolland is one of the most famous winemakers on the planet, a French consultant who has shaped the wine of producers across 13 countries and left his mark on fine wine from Bordeaux to Argentina. He came to southern Spain, found these forgotten soleras in the ancient bodegas of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and decided the world needed to know about them.
Together with Spanish wine expert Javier Galarreta, he rescued what they called the Soleras Olvidadas, the forgotten soleras. Wines ageing in century-old American oak barrels on albariza soils shaped by the Atlantic and the Guadalquivir River. The oldest barrel in the cellar dates to 1822.
The Fino ages for an average of 8 years under a delicate flower veil. Pale golden in the glass. Toasted almonds, sea salt, bread dough and a bone dry finish that lingers. €40. 94 points Guía Peñín.
The Amontillado spent more than 30 years in the barrel — the first 12 under the flower veil, then two more decades exposed to oxygen until it became something richer, deeper and more complex. Mahogany in the glass. Hazelnuts, wood and a persistent finish that stays with you long after the last sip. €53. 95 points Guía Peñín and 95 points James Suckling.
Some wines are made. These ones were found.
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