01/08/2024
Nice mention about Bright Juices in the NY Times Front Burner section:
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Tenmile Distilleryâs Single Malt Whisky Conjures the Hudson Valley and Scotland
Deluxe hot chocolate on the Upper East Side, a talk on national dishes and more food news.
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The interior of a distillery with wood floors, beams and roof. In the center is a glass-enclosed area with large stills.
Tenmile Distillery in Wassaic, N.Y.Credit...Francesco Lagnese
Florence Fabricant
By Florence Fabricant
Jan. 8, 2024, 2:16 p.m. ET
American distillers have been turning their attention to single malts, defined in Scotland as whisky produced in one distillery from 100 percent malted barley. In the United States these rules are usually followed, but have yet to be mandated by government regulators; it should happen soon. In Wassaic, N.Y., in the Hudson Valley, John Dyson is betting on the appeal of American single malts at his Tenmile Distillery. A former state Commissioner of Agriculture and Tourism who owns Millbrook Vineyards & Winery nearby and Williams Selyem winery in California, Mr. Dyson hired Shane Fraser, a master distiller from Scotland, to run the distillery. Their Little Rest Whisky, with whisky spelled as it is in Scotland since the distillery produces the spirit as is done in Scotland, is the second edition, recently released after a very limited first run. Itâs light bronze and scented of toast and honey, with notes of hazelnuts on the palate, and excellent to sip with or without ice. If terroir can shape a whiskey, this one evokes the gentle, welcoming Hudson Valley. The distillery also produces gin and vodka.
Tenmile Distillery Little Rest Single Malt, $100 for 750 milliliters, tenmiledistillery.com.
Sâmores Hot Chocolate and More
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Two people sit on a bench outside of Glace by Noglu enjoying elaborate hot chocolates with spoons.
Credit...Brittainy Newman for The New York Times
On the Upper East Side, hot chocolate is drawing crowds you might expect for a sample sale of designer sneakers. Itâs no ordinary hot chocolate, but a complex version at the ice cream shop Glace by Noglu, a tiny nook owned by Sasha Zabar and Noglu, the gluten-free pastry shop and cafe by FrĂ©dĂ©rique Jules and Eli Zabar, Sasha Zabarâs father. Dark chocolate is the base, and the cup is rimmed in meringue and torched with a summit of whipped cream. The flavors are peppermint, salted caramel, black-and-white cookie, hot chocolate, white chocolate brĂ»lĂ©e, hot chocolate sundae and sâmores, $7.50 to $16. The innovative confection is sold from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily.
Glace by Noglu, 1266 Madison Avenue (91st Street), 347-502-6445, glaceny.com.
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New Vinegars That Lean on Fresh Produce
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Two glass bottles of light yellow, clear liquid with labels that say âHaxan Fermentsâ; one is labeled celery and the other is green garlic.
Let a molecular biologist into the kitchen and chances are that something fermented will result. Thatâs the story of Jessica Huszar who founded the food company HĂ€xan in Seattle in 2018: hot sauces and vinegars that depend on Pacific Northwest produce, beer and wine for their bases. Her latest, a mellow green garlic vinegar with rich notes of the bulbs, and celery with a strongly herbal thrust, make nice additions to the vinegar wardrobe. The green garlic puts a new spin on a vinaigrette and a splash of the celery blooms in a Bloody Mary and could do more for fish and chips than the usual malt (which HĂ€xan also makes). Both work wonders on potatoes.
HĂ€xan vinegars, $14 for 12 ounces, haxanferments.com.
The Foods That Define a Nation
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A book cover with the title âNational Dish: Around the World in Search of Food History, and the Meaning of Homeâ above illustrations of labeled foods, like ramen, pizza, mole and more.
Can a dish define a culture? Itâs what the food writer Anya von Bremzen explored in her book âNational Dish: Around the World in Search of Food, History and the Meaning of Home,â published last year. In conversation with Linda Pelaccio, she will discuss her findings and what she considers the signature dishes of France, Italy, Spain, Mexico, Japan and Turkey in a virtual session for the Culinary Historians of New York on Jan. 17 at 6:30 p.m. A Zoom link will be sent the day before to those who register.
Culinary Historians of New York, free for members, $10 for nonmembers and guests, culinaryhistoriansny.org.
Add These Stuffed Piquillo Peppers to Your Snack Plate
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Four piquillo peppers on a decorative, green plate that looks like a large leaf.
Credit...Francho Lazaro Aznar. Stylist: Jara van Herpt.
A tin of the new White Tuna Stuffed Piquillo Peppers from Siesta Co., a company based in Los Angeles, make for a quick tapa at home. Lucia Flors and her husband, Carlos Leiva, import high-quality conservas from Spain canned in extra virgin olive oil. Theyâve just added the stuffed piquillos in a new line theyâre calling Meals by Siesta. There are four peppers in mellow tomato sauce in the can. And for die-hard anchovy lovers they also import lush Cantabrian anchovies in extra virgin olive oil in 500 gram (17.6 ounce) cans; a 2.5-ounce size is also available.
Meals by Siesta, White Tuna Stuffed Piquillo Peppers, two for $24.95, Siesta anchovies $69.95 for 500 grams, $35.95 for three 2.5-ounce tins, siesta-co.com.
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Brighten January With These Fruit Juices
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Four bottles of juice in various colors of red and purple, with labels that say âBright Juicesâ with illustrations of the fruits in each.
Credit...Kitchen and good Wolf Design Studio-Novi Sad
For a taste of summer in midwinter, try the new fresh-pressed tomato and cold-pressed apricot and sour cherry juices newly arrived from Serbia. Theyâre made from traditional processes and not from concentrate; thereâs also some apple juice in the fruit varieties. The sour cherry with soda will help with dry January, the apricot will boost a smoothie or sauce for duck, and the tomato juices, mild or with celery, are excellent as is or to use in soups or drinks.
Bright Juices, 25.4 ounces, tomato, tomato with celery, $40 for six; apricot, sour cherry, $28 for three or $50 for six at bright-juices.com; also sold at Fairway, Gourmet Garage and some chains.
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Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks. More about Florence Fabricant
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