08/24/2026
An update on this hive design after several additional years of experience.
The foundational concept of managing by the box instead of by the frame has held true. I make splits by the box, add space by the box, adjust brood nest size by the box, etc. Pretty much the only time I handle frames in the field is 3-4 days after making splits to see which split has the original queen.
The foundationless frame that is usually a drone frame is best drawn out 2nd frame in from the edge, so it hold true to 1.25 inch on center spacing and we get no funny bridge comb. Once drawn out, I prefer it be on the edge, so it is on the edge of the winter brood space a bit more.
The 1.25 inch on center frame spacing gives me 13% more cells inside a given cluster size, and seems to have an observable effect on more rapid buildup in the spring.
The 9.25 inch interior width works well for 7 frames, but is tight with five frames and a two frame width feeder. Another .25 inch would be nice, but then would no longer fit the Ross Round frames perfectly.
In our high humidity environment with a compressed 4-6 week peak nectar flow, I think this design is inadequate on air flow and ventilation for drying comb honey rapidly. I am of the opinion I need 2-3 inch deep entrances, and possibly follower boards on the sides of the brood boxes to facilitate mass rapid air flow to the supers similar to what the Killions did in IL. Planning to test this on most hives this coming year. At minimum on all the hives run as a 2 queen units.
I have since added 1 inch thick XPS insulation on all four sides of each box, plus 2 inches on top of each lid, taking inspiration from Etienne Tardif's exceptional work.
I have also switched to insulated top feeders, only using the internal frame feeders for nucs and warm weather feeding where I dont have enough top feeders. All large colonies intended for serious comb honey production go through the winter with a top feeder, and are fed late and early, following Rick Williams work from Alberta.
Slatted racks in deep bottom boards are the right fit for our high humidity environment and needing large air flow for comb honey production. I built them together as a single unit with a too shallow entrance and space, which hasn't been a great idea. Created a space for mice to build nests that could only be cleaned out from the front.
At first, I though having the corner posts extend past the top instead of the bottom would add structural strength to the upper box edge, (and i think it would, but I have come to really like the ability and convenience of sliding a two dolly under stack of boxes and rolling it around.
Original post here: https://www.facebook.com/flowerdancerhoneybees/posts/pfbid02ciEFvmDp4WC6UD64Toppx1EgdsFcSWgwxaWhN82TimsuagHjgiiYGktXknDC6omWl
