08/23/2022
Two factors motivated me to come up with my own hive design.
I damaged my shoulders, making it difficult to lift heavy weights above elbow height. Secondly, I have a very full life, and the honeybees bring me a lot of joy and fulfillment. I want to care for them well as time efficiently as possible. My objective is to develop a management system where I can manage "by the box" rather than "by the frame" as much as reasonably possible.
I am very pleased after my first year's experience with this design. Possibly weaknesses will emerge over time that I haven't discovered yet. As of right now, The only change I would make would be to have the corner posts extend from the top instead of the bottom of the box.
What is in the photos?
1. Boxes are standard medium super (6-1/2) depth and length, and hold seven frames, spaced 1.25 inches on center. Each box has roughly the same surface area of comb as a 5 frame deep nuc and weighs roughly 35 pounds when filled with honey. This box width also precisely matches the width of 6 Ross Round frames.
2. One frame in each super is a foundationless frame. (I learned the best position is second from the outside.) When drawn out in brood nest during buildup season, this frame is almost exclusively drome comb. Greater than 95% of swarm queen cells were found on this frame. When in supers, it is a blend of drone and worker cell size and produces some very nice comb honey. This worked so well that I am tempted to test a full super of foundationless frames at this spacing to see how accurately they follow the comb guide for comb honey production.
3. One box per hive, usually bottom or second from bottom contains a MotherLode 2 frame width frame feeder.
4. I absolutely love the interlocking cornerpost box design. It is easy to make. I have a solid handle. I can lift a box with one hand. A stack of boxes does not shift and slide during transport, they interlock solid. The corner posts have a slight gap between them that is perfect to insert a hive tool, and not touch the corners of the boxes.
5. Migratory lids made out of cheeseboard, with a slight gap between rim and the corner post also provides an easy leverage point for a hive tool.
6. Bottom boards include a built in 2 inch deep tray under 8 mesh screen, and a built in slatted rack. The slatted rack was included because of our focus on comb honey production, and our high humidity during the winter months. The jury is still out on this bottom board design.
7. Division boards with a double entrance are used for many purposes, splitting, queen mating, and as a bottom board for small colonies.
The only downside I experienced so far is hives that become tall quickly in a strong nectar flow. However, this wasn't that difficult to manage given that Ross Round boxes full weighed only 15 pounds.
Who thought it was a good idea to lift an eighty-pound deep with your fingertips, anyway?
Edit to add: These were all custom manufactured for me by MillCreek Honeybees in Middlefield Ohio. An Amish guy, Urie Byler, with excellent craftsmanship as you can see. You can leave a voicemail for him at four four zero, six three six, five six zero seven.
