09/13/2026
🍷 I have been down a lot of cellars in Spain. This one still gets me.
Fifty-nine stone steps below El Lagar de Isilla in Aranda de Duero, and you are standing in the 15th century. The whole old town is undercut like this, more than 7 km of tunnels that families dug by hand beneath their own houses, because w**e was the economy and the w**e needed somewhere cool to sleep. Around 135 of these cellars are still here. Ten to thirteen degrees, every single day of the year, no matter what the sun is doing up on the street.
And here is the part I love telling people: in 1503, Aranda de Duero became the first town in Spain to have a map drawn of it. It was made to settle an argument between neighbours, and Castile later used it as a reference for laying out cities in the Americas.
This is the kind of place I take people on our Spain tours. Not a tasting room. A tunnel.
Have you ever been underground in a w**e town?
**e