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Five Waters Ranch ADGA Plus herd of Nigerian Dwarf goats in DeQuincy, LA. Whole herd tested CAE and Johnes negative.

We had a great weekend at the Mississippi State Fair! Coming home with 2 new Junior Champion does and a BEST IN SHOW mil...
10/18/2026

We had a great weekend at the Mississippi State Fair! Coming home with 2 new Junior Champion does and a BEST IN SHOW milker!

Confirmed breeding!Five Waters RS Violet (Jr GCH and BIS) is confirmed bred to Lil Miss B Haven Fearless CQ *B!Violet is...
10/10/2026

Confirmed breeding!

Five Waters RS Violet (Jr GCH and BIS) is confirmed bred to Lil Miss B Haven Fearless CQ *B!

Violet is out of GCH Five Waters IC Primrose 5*M VEVE88 who became a permanent champion this year as a 2yo! Her udder is lovely- perfect teat placement, medial, and a smooth, extended foreudder. Violet’s sire is GTB Farm RR Royal Scandahl *B, son of GCH Agape’s Prize CQuinn Dahl 3*M VEEE91 and Agape's Prize Royal Rose *B (a son of 2x National Champion GCH Agape’s Prize French Quarter 4*M EEEE92).

Violet went Grand Champion and Best in Show as a little junior at her very first show last fall, and she’s been hanging out in the barn ever since. I think she is going to be even nicer than her dam!

Fearless has produced some amazing progeny, including CH 3G Family Farm RiseNShine EEEE92, 3rd place 5-6yo, 1st place Dairy Herd, and 1st place best 3 Senior Does at this year’s National Show. He is a paternal brother to 3 different National Champions through his sire, Old Mountain Farm Cyrus Quinn ++*B. His pedigree is stacked and he is very correct, scoring a VEE91 this spring at LA with a V in shoulder assembly!

Really excited about this FF and these kids! Due in January!

Are you unknowingly sabotaging your breeding program? All this money spent on AI equipment and straws. You have what see...
10/07/2026

Are you unknowingly sabotaging your breeding program? All this money spent on AI equipment and straws. You have what seems like the perfect AI but the doe doesn't settle...why?

Which leads my to my next topic on artificial insemination.

Doe stress: a silent killer of conception rates.

Doe stress is a huge contributor to the success of your AI!
Keep your animals the least stressed that you possibly can around the time you do the AI. Remember, goats are prey animals. Keep their routine the same! This includes things like management changes, transport, heat stress, feed changes, a new LGD, vaccines or other injections, a change in pens or pastures, isolation from their herd, and new goats introduced to the herd. Stress can result from handling as well – does put on the stand for the first time are not accustomed to being restrained in this way and may fight. Does with mastitis/subclinical mastitis or any sickness are less likely to settle as well.

When a doe becomes stressed, there are endocrine changes in her body that can negatively impact the effectiveness of your AI program. Cortisol is released. Egg quality is affected and endocrine changes can make the uterus less likely to support a pregnancy. There is a lot of research on this and it transcends species – even human reproduction is negatively affected by stress! Keep your does in their routine. You’ve come this far – don’t ruin your AI!

I prefer to AI milkers who I’ve been milking all year on my normal milk stand. They are accustomed to coming in the milk room and being milked every day on that stand. They willingly jump on the stand, put their heads through the headgates, and stand quietly to be milked. I feed my does on the stand, so this is a good example of positive reinforcement training, which is shown to improve conception rates. I start training my juniors to eat on the stand so they become comfortable with it before they ever start milking. Just think about first training a doe to the milk stand. She may be leery of it and scared to be locked in the headgate. She may fight being restrained and scream. Or she may quietly panic and shake, depending on her temperament. You need her to be acclimatized to being restrained so she is calm and at ease.

Practice your AI procedure and have your equipment ready before you bring the doe in. Once you put her on that stand and check her, you want to proceed with the AI smoothly and quickly. You don’t want to leave the doe on the stand for an extended time. In general, my AIs are 10 minutes or less.

YOUR stress matters as well! Animals pick up on our mood/ behavior and mirror it. Speak to them calmly and gently. Smooth, gentle handling is key. I give mine treats and pet/scratch them. The trust of your does goes a LONG way.

THE DOE: continuing our deep dive into artificial insemination!First and foremost, your doe needs to be in excellent hea...
10/05/2026

THE DOE: continuing our deep dive into artificial insemination!

First and foremost, your doe needs to be in excellent health for your best chances of AI success. Does who are sick, are suffering from internal or external parasites, or have too little or too much conditioning on them are not your best AI candidates. You also want a doe who is not cystic, cycling abnormally, or having issues settling via live cover. I’ve heard many new people say, “Oh I’ll just AI her if she won’t settle to my buck.” To be honest, you’d most likely be throwing money away. Get her right first! My best AI candidates are my does who are neither too fat or too thin, sleek shiny coats, and typically settle the first breeding. I prefer to AI does who have freshened at least once, but I would do a well-handled dry yearling. Just be sure to break the h***n on a maiden doe well before you do the AI. I have tried AI on a growthy coming Nigerian yearling and I don’t recommend it. It was not fun for me or the doe. Perhaps it would be easier on a larger standard breed doe.
A good nutrition program is very important. Choose a quality hay/forage and loose mineral. I like Duraferm Goat Concept Aid Minerals and Organic Kelp Meal. I feed a mixture of grass hay and premium alfalfa. This will vary on what is available in your region! But quality forage is always #1. I prefer to flush my does by increasing grain/calorie intake for 3-6 weeks before breeding. I find this increases fertility and the number of kids born.

I prefer a calm-tempered doe for AI. It is so much easier to AI a doe who is used to being handled than a wild one you are trying to keep still. You are poking around a sensitive part of them and it’s easy to accidentally make them bleed a little. Blood will kill your semen so the chances of a successful AI are decreased if it is present.
Some does have oddly positioned cervical openings. They may be off to the side or on the floor of the vaginal vault. This can make an AI more difficult, but it’s possible to maneuver the doe to overcome this. For example, if a doe has a low cervix, you may be able to have a helper lift up on her belly to help position the cervix higher.

Hormones: I am not against the use of hormones, but I prefer to AI my does on natural heats. The least amount of things I can possibly mess up, the better! If I do need to synchronize a doe I CIDR them for 10-14 days, then pull the cidr and give 1 cc of lutalyse and 1.5cc of pg600. They tend to come into heat within 24-36 hours after the cidr pull and you’ll want to AI around 42-52 hours after, depending on the doe. Every doe is a little different and in season vs off season breeding matters as well. Talk with your mentor and your vet – there may be another protocol that works well for you. I know there are many out there that people have success with!

What I do recommend doing: take notes on your does' heat cycles. How many days is her cycle? 18? 21? Longer? How long does she stay in standing heat? At what point in the heat does she start losing interest in a buck? At what point is she ignoring the buck? Use your speculum and light and look at her cervical mucus and cervix. What color are they? Is the cervix bright red? Pink? Is the OS open or closed? What is the consistency of the mucus? Is it clear and very stretchy? Is it streaked with white and thickening? Is it cream cheese consistency? Observing all of these things and taking detailed notes will help you nail down your timing for each doe!

I have more doe info but this post is already sooo long. Stay tuned! My next post will be about doe stress and its impact on pregnacy rates, along with ways to help prevent stress-related losses.

Pictured: GCH Short on Heaven Joy's Voodoo 5*M VEEE90, who has settled the past 3 years in a row via AI. Love this girl and those AI kids!

The next part of my series on Artificial Insemination! The tools you will need to transcervically AI your doe!o A stand ...
10/04/2026

The next part of my series on Artificial Insemination! The tools you will need to transcervically AI your doe!

o A stand for the doe. I use my counter-height milk stand and tie one back leg to the stand with a hay string to keep her from moving around as much.
o An AI gun. I have the Hi-Bred gun from Biogenics and I like it. I’ve seen people also like the All-2-Mate guns. This is what holds the straw during the AI. It has a plunger to push the semen out of the tube.
o Sheaths. This is a thin plastic cover that goes over the AI gun once you have loaded the straw in it. It holds the straw in and directs the flow of semen into the cervix. Use a new one every time. I also have a convenient plastic tube holder to keep them in. Buy more than you think you’ll need – they are inexpensive and if you run out it’s about impossible to buy it locally. I like the individually wrapped sheaths to insure a clean sheath every time.
o Speculums. I have both plastic speculums from Biogenics and hand blown glass from Sandra VanEcho. I prefer the glass, but only on a calm doe. If they are very jumpy I will use the plastic. You definitely don’t want to break a glass speculum in a doe! But the glass ones I find are much easier to see and work in! My Biogenics speculum came with a plastic insertion assist tool that I like to use with both types of speculums.
o Straw cutter. A device to cut the plug end of the straw off before you load it into the AI gun. It helps you cut the end as square as possible. Clean, sharp scissors will work.
o Non-spermicidal lubricant. Might as well get the multi-pack. I use a lot for the doe’s comfort and it’s handy to have plenty around if you need to assist a doe during kidding.
o AI light. Some people like a clip on pen light. I also use my Biogenics light and it works well. You want a slim but strong LED.
o Straw tweezers/forceps. I find the plastic ones harder to use and end up using my fingernails a lot to pluck straws out of goblets.
o Extra 10mm canes and goblets, especially if you are collecting your own bucks and will need to split canes. You can buy a single complete cane with 2 goblets for around $1-2 each, or cheaper in bulk.
o Thaw jar with thermometer. I have used this in the past but now quickly armpit thaw my straws as I have had plugs pop out of straws before. If water gets to the semen it can ruin your straw. You can also thaw the straw in a plastic baggie to prevent water damage if the straw explodes.
o Something to put all your equipment on. I use the rest of my large milk stand with a fresh puppy pad laid down, but a table or counter is handy!
o Other things that are handy:
-Long swabs. To swab excess mucus off the cervix so you can see better. -Paper towels to clean off the doe’s v***a and dry your straws.
-Tool box. To keep all your AI supplies in one place.
-Bottle brush. To clean the inside of your speculums.
-Endoscopic camera/AI gun. I have seen some people like the AI gun with the camera and screen. It’s not necessary and kind of expensive, but still pretty cool.
-A heating pad to warm your AI gun or keep semen warm after thawing if your doe isn't quite ready yet.
-Biogenics AI instruction booklet. I found this booklet very useful and it laid out the procedure from start to finish! A great book to learn with or refresh your memory.
-A microscope with slides and slide covers for checking semen. You can be successful without this, but it’s nice to have!

Biogenics sells a complete AI kit for around $200, or you can piece together your own. The gun is the most expensive part. Links in the pinned comment!

I'm going to do a series of posts on AI, by popular demand! I realized as I was typing things up that it was FARRRR too ...
10/01/2026

I'm going to do a series of posts on AI, by popular demand! I realized as I was typing things up that it was FARRRR too much information for one post. I'm also going to add a page to my website with all the information as I have time.

The very first thing you need to do artificial insemination is a quality liquid nitrogen tank, or access to one, to store your semen! You also need to know basic cryogenic handling procedures.

o The MVE XC 20 is a great starter tank. It costs around $700-800 new, and you can find used ones (make sure they still hold for adequate time) for less than that. It holds approximately 20 liters of liquid nitrogen, and holds a maximum of 660 straws, or 66 standard 10mm canes that hold 10 straws each. It has 6 canisters inside that hold 11 canes each. However, I find that 11 canes is really packed in there and hard to work in. I usually only put a max of 10 per canister.
o There are also 13mm canes that hold a bulk 20 straws (10 in each 13mm goblet) or embryos. Fewer of these larger canes will fit in one canister.
o Semen is normally stored for each buck in canes with the ID/name written on the top of the cane. If you have a full cane or just one straw, you will need a cane in the tank for that buck. I don’t recommend mixing up straws in goblets if you can avoid it. Something to keep in mind when choosing a tank as it can fill up quickly, especially if you collect your own bucks as “insurance.” It is unlikely you will have a tank with every cane full, so you will never get to the max number of straws a tank can hold. So count canes, not straws when estimating how much capacity you need.
o There are larger tanks for more storage, but they are fairly heavy when full! I have a 20 liter tank and 34 liter tank – the larger one stays at home for bulk storage. The 20 liter one I can lift alone and it goes to shows with me when I am picking up or delivering semen.
o Don’t buy a cheap, small tank from Amazon/Vevor! These tanks have smaller canisters that won’t fit the long canes that semen is packed in. If you are going to be spending the money on semen, invest in a quality tank. If your storage goes bad, you’ll lose all your straws!
o You will need to have your tank refilled periodically with liquid nitrogen as the nitrogen will ev***rate over time. The cost of this can vary wildly depending on where you are located. I pay $65 per fill per tank and am on a route that comes to my house about every 11 weeks. If your tank goes dry because you forget to fill it, you will lose all of your expensive straws!
o Keep your tank in an area you will see it daily, and sitting on an old towel or rug if on concrete (helps protect the tank from corrosion). If you ever see frost on the outside, the vacuum seal has failed and you need to act immediately to save your straws. It’s never a bad idea to have a backup plan with a nearby friend's tank if this happens!
o Don’t get the plug to your tank wet! It can freeze to the side of the tank and cause damage. The plug is supposed to be loose-fitting to let nitrogen escape slowly over time. You can put the plug in a plastic grocery bag (like a sleeve) to help with rattling during transport, but don’t leave the bag on there as pressure can build up and damage the tank.
o Be very careful when transporting your tank – It cannot be tipped over or the nitrogen will spill out! Nitrogen displaces oxygen so you want to make sure your tank is in a well-ventilated area. Strap that tank down! Be gentle with you tank – you don’t want to damage the tank and lose the vacuum.
o If you drop a cane or straws down into the main tank area (not in a canister) by accident, a 4 prong pick up tool is essential to get it back out. Let the tank sit for a bit and the v***r will clear so you can see down into the tank.
o A measuring or yardstick is helpful to determine how much liquid nitrogen is left in your tank. Try not to let it get under 10 cm of nitrogen – these tanks need a minimum amount of nitrogen to store the straws properly – Even if the tank doesn’t run fully dry, very low nitrogen levels can lead to damaged straws.
o Searching for straws: Use a headlamp, work quickly, and keep canisters below the frost line when working in your tank. Repeated exposure to warmer temperatures will damage your semen.
o Transferring semen between tanks should be done quickly – think about 5 seconds. You want to have the least amount of time possible out of the liquid nitrogen.
o V***r Shippers: These can be more expensive than a wet tank because they require a protective cover known as a “mushroom.” This unique shape protects the shipping tank and keeps it upright during shipment. V***r tanks are charged with liquid nitrogen – it is absorbed into a specialized porous, hydrophobic material inside the tank before shipping. This enables 1-3 weeks (depending on the tank) of cyrogenic storage without worrying about spilling liquid nitrogen during shipping.
o Off-site storage: some companies offer to store your straws for a per-cane rate. This can be beneficial if you don’t want to invest in your own tank, take your doe to the facility to be AI’d, or worry about keeping your straws properly stored. These facilities also usually have v***r shippers you can rent to transport your semen.

So that's my basic rundown on semen tanks! I tried to include a lot of useful information without going too in depth. Anyone have anything I should add? Any questions? Let me know!

Next part coming soon - the equipment you'll need!

Edited to add: wow, the response has been overwhelming! I’m super excited that so many people want to learn! I started t...
09/30/2026

Edited to add: wow, the response has been overwhelming! I’m super excited that so many people want to learn! I started typing things up and have multiple pages so far. It’s so much I think I’ll need to break it into multiple posts. And also get photos/videos as some suggested! Make sure to follow the page so you don’t miss anything! I also am debating adding it all to my website to have everything in one place.

I’ve had several people reach out to me lately asking about my artificial insemination techniques and tricks. The procedure for the AI itself, what equipment I use, the cost of maintaining a tank, etc. This has me thinking…what if I typed up everything I do for a successful AI and shared it with y’all? Maybe people can add their own tips in the comments.

I’ve had 3 successful years of transcervical AI so far. I’m not an expert by any means, but I’ve gotten some really nice kids out of it!

Let me know in the comments if you think this would be useful to you or not. AI has improved my herd so much and I would love to help other people improve theirs too!

Pictured is Five Waters JD High Priestess, an AI doe from last year ❤️

Thoughts are heavy this week…We lost my lovely Five Waters BoldN Glamorous to a freak accident this past weekend. She wa...
09/29/2026

Thoughts are heavy this week…

We lost my lovely Five Waters BoldN Glamorous to a freak accident this past weekend. She was a gorgeous, promising young doe out of Charm by Fearless.

You can do all you can for healthy, thriving animals but sometimes bad things happen out of your control…

And of course it’s always a favorite too. Rest easy sweet girl. 💔

I am sooo pumped for this breeding! Five Waters AG Deja Vu (CH Moon Station Aberama Gold x GCH Short on Heaven Joy’s Voo...
09/27/2026

I am sooo pumped for this breeding!

Five Waters AG Deja Vu (CH Moon Station Aberama Gold x GCH Short on Heaven Joy’s Voodoo 5*M EX VEEE 90) is confirmed bred to Lil Miss B Haven Fearless CQ *B VEE91!

Deja was the 14th place Sr Kid at this year’s National Show in a HUGE class of kids. Her dam, Voodoo, is a favorite here and produces some outstanding kids! And her sire, Aberama, is the son of CH Little Tots Estate Saturn EEEE92 and littermate to CH Moon Station Ophelia EEEE93. I love my Aberama kids, they are so correct, especially in that hard to find front end assembly!

I wanted to cross Fearless back over my Aberama daughters for a linebreeding on Old Mountain Farm Cyrus Quinn ++*B, who has produced 3 National Champions and many other amazing offspring. Cyrus is the sire to Fearless and grandsire to Aberama. Fearless is so correct in his feet and legs and has the most beautiful head! He is also the sire to CH 3G Family Farm FR Rise N Shine EEEE92, 3rd place 5-6yo, 1st place Dairy Herd, and 1st place best 3 Senior Does at this year’s National Show. She is absolutely stunning!

Anyway, I’m hoping for a doe for me, and she has a few doe reservations already, but her buck list is open! I expect her udder to be absolutely gorgeous as all my Voodoo daughters are…don’t miss out on some of my nicest genetics at a FF price!

Super proud of Camille and Rep, who beat the younger and older bucks and walked away with Grand Champion Buck at only 8 ...
09/20/2026

Super proud of Camille and Rep, who beat the younger and older bucks and walked away with Grand Champion Buck at only 8 months old!

Rep is an AI son of CH Moon Station Aberama Gold and out of our favorite GCH Short on Heaven Joy’s Voodoo 5*M VEEE90 😍

Camille puts in the work and is an amazing showman! I’m excited to watch them on their journey together!

OH, REP… YOU MADE US SO PROUD! 🏆

Our boy Rep had us on the edge of our seats yesterday, and watching him strut his stuff in the show ring was EVERYTHING!

Rep kicked things off by winning 1st in Class in the 6–9 month old age class. But this boy wasn’t done yet! He went on to win GRAND CHAMPION JUNIOR BUCK! 🥇

Then came the Overall Drive, where our young buck went head-to-head with some very mature bucks. And then…

Five Waters Gold N Reputation won OVERALL GRAND CHAMPION NIGERIAN DWARF BUCK! 🏆

The look on our girl’s face was priceless! That kind of excitement, pride, and pure joy is what it’s all about!

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Dequincy, LA
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