11/01/2025
Before getting into the actual method of making fresh cheeses, let's stop for a minute and consider the "aesthetics." In other words, why are you making cheese and for whom? People rarely make something - a full dinner, cheese, wine, a bouquet, pasta - solely for themselves. They make it to share with others - to provide hospitality, a gracious bit of living, a favorite food, or something beautiful. One of my favorite memories involving cheese, was when my family and I were going through France. It was a length trip that involved soccer tournaments in various countries, family homecomings in various countries, ferries, and long drives. This was one of those long drives during which hunger struck.
We were in a small French town where dining options were limited but looked promising so we stopped. Fortunately Jacques was a native son of France and was completely fluent; we didn't have to depend upon my wholly inadequate command of the language. The restaurant looked very much like a typical French home with a pale pink stucco exterior; a dark, cool interior, and a lovely garden patio shaded by a venerable tree. We asked to be seated there and were escorted to one of the cloth covered tables with chairs. Shortly after we were seated, the waitress - probably a daughter of the proprietor - brought us a carafe of wine, a bowl of fresh cheese; and salt, pepper, and sugar canisters. The cheese was completely fresh and unflavored so that diners could add what they especially enjoyed. A basket of sliced French bread was also provided. The children, to no one's surprise, preferred to sweeten the cheese, while Jacques and I used salt and pepper as a better accompaniment to the crisp wine.
Entrees were ordered from the daily menu - a simple entrecot of beef with pommes frites and a garden salad. Another wine was produced to compliment the heartier entree and we ate and drank contentedly in this lovely garden, shaded by a magnificent oak. It was parfait. So much so that we almost considered spending the night. Besides, the consumption of wine and an abundance of food at mid-day left us in need of a restorative nap before continuing our beau voyage.
The cheese we were served that day was undoubtedly a fresh cream cheese that as part of a more formal meal might be served with fresh strawberries or raspberries. There are two cheeses that generally fit that description: Petit Suisse and Faisselle. Instead of writing out recipes, I'll share links to websites with good, easy-to-follow directions. The New England Cheese Making Supply Company has an excellent recipe that will likely give you a delicious product your first time out. It calls for Buttermilk Culture and Rennet (aka Junket). Both are commonly used in cheesemaking to aid in fermentation and curdling. You can usually find Rennet at grocery stores including Sprouts (I think) and Whole Foods. It can also be ordered from Amazon or the above-mentioned New England Cheese Making Supply. Glass jars can be as simple as glass jelly (Ball or Mason) jars, saved jars, juice-type glasses, or even plastic containers. It you enjoy both making and eating cheese, it's probably worth your while to invest in a good thermometer (a candy thermometer will do) since cheese making is a tad more precise than using the soft ball candy test. Even a so-called "failed" fresh cheese is often very tasty and can be used much like yogurt or kefir.
Petit Suisse is an excellent, beginner cheese and I heartily recommend it. New England Cheesemaking Supply Company; https://cheesemaking.com
Creme fraiche is a sort of fancier, less tart sour cream that is added to everything from soup to fruit. It's ease itself. Again, using the best quality ingredients available is the key to creating a sublime product. Pour 1 cup of heavy cream into a glass container (a mason jar will do), add 2 tablespoons of buttermilk - or - a splash of fresh lemon juice to 2 tablespoons of whole milk. Let that sit at room temperature for about 10 minutes, then add to your heavy cream in the glass jar. Cover jar with a damp paper towel and let it sit for 12-24 hours. Once is reaches the desired consistency - I prefer mine to be thick and creamy; similar to Greek yogurt - refrigerate the mixture. It will keep up to 2 weeks in the fridge.
Buying Mascarpone leads you to believe it's a precious gift from the cheese gods. It's simplicity itself although there are variations on the theme. Mascarpone is a rich Italian cream cheese that can make a dish sing. If you like regular cream cheese, you'll love Mascarpone. I personally prefer a softer Mascarpone, but if you prefer a firm cream cheese, just cook it a little longer. Your ingredients list couldn't be simpler: 2 cups of heavy cream, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, a little salt if it's to your taste. That's it. And the actual making of it is just as simple. Pour ingredients into a heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the cream to between 185 and 190 degrees over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to a simmer and stir in the lemon juice. Cook, stirring, for 3 minutes maintaining the temperature between 185-190 degrees. The mixture should coat the back of a spoon. Whisk well and let cool for 30 minutes. While the mixture is cooling, line a small colander or strainer with a clean tea towel or several layers of cheesecloth. Pour cooled mixture into the strainer, cover with plastic wrap (pressing down gently on the surface of the cream) and cool to room temperature (about 20-30) minutes. Chill cheese mixture (still in the strainer) in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight. Remove plastic wrap, spook into a sealed container or use immediately. If stored in a container, it must be refrigerated. Tip: use heavy cream with a 35-40% butterfat. This Mascarpone makes the world's best tiramisu! It is very versatile, making a delicious lemon-dill topping for baked salmon.
In another post we'll review Mozzarella, Ricotta, Feta, and Farmer's Cheese. The last three are very similar; Farmer's Cheese is sometimes called a "dry cottage cheese." Hushallsost aka Swedish Farmers Cheese is considered a "household cheese in Sweden for its versatility and ease of making. It is one of the most popular cheeses in Sweden and is found on nearly every breakfast table. Let's just say they are all delicious variations on a theme.
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