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From Pan To Mouth, 1111 W Riverside Dr, Kohler, WI (2026)

08/30/2026

THANK YOU, Milwaukee!

Lowcountry Milwaukee has closed its doors for good. Five years, thousands of tables, and a whole lot of good nights. We’re grateful for every one of you who walked in, sat down, and made this place feel like ours together.

The Lowcountry Team

08/18/2026

Famous Original Ray’s Pizza – New York City, NY
Overall: B

Pesto Roni - Fresh mozzarella, pesto sauce, spicy mini cup pepperoni, topped with Mike’s Hot Honey
Ray’s Special - Pepperoni, sausage, meatballs, mushrooms, bacon, green peppers, onions & smothered with extra mozzarella cheese

Overview - Famous Original Ray’s Pizza is a small chain of pizzerias in New York City. I visited their 49th street location which had a nice variety of pizzas available by the slice and way too many tourists pushing to get in.

Pesto Roni - Crisped bottom, chewy-crispy crust. Great flavor - pepperoni had some heat and savory notes with minimal funk. The pesto was oily and rich with a light herb character.

Ray’s Special – Same crust. A pizza that felt like it could have done more by doing less; flavors were muddled and muted and ate as generally savory-vegetal.

Summary – For a place that felt like a tourist trap, I found the pesto roni to actually be quite good while the Ray’s Special was more lackluster. These slices were also very expensive relative to other NYC options.

08/16/2026

Stretch – New York City, NY
Overall: A-

Pepperoni Slice
White Slice

Overview – Stretch is a pizzeria in New York City run by legendary Chef Wylie Dufresne. I visited their Manhattan location which sadly closed in July. It had a medium-size space with a bar and fairly high ceilings. While they had a full menu, they also had a separate slice menu with four pizza options.

Pizza – The white pizza featured good mozzarella flavor and a hint of lemon with a chewy and crispy crust. It had been topped with some shredded hard cheese post-bake which had partially melted in. The pepperoni sliced had the same great crust and cheese but also featured vibrant pepperoni and a balanced amount of flavorful sauce which integrated seamlessly with the pepperoni. Neither slice was a stop-you-in-your-tracks “wow” but simply every-day tasty without a flaw in sight.

Summary – Despite Wylie Dufresne cutting his name with the avant garde and innovative, these slices highlighted a commitment to fundamental and striving to perfect the basics. It’s the best New York style pizza I can remember having.

08/08/2026

Purslane – Milwaukee, WI
Overall: B

Tuna Naya - Yuzu Charmoula, Strawberry, Togarashi Rice
Meze Trio - Hummus Bi Tahini, Sweet Potato Skordalia, Muhammara, Pita
Harissa Chicken Wings - Preserved Lemon Ranch, Apricot Harissa, Kohlrabi Slaw
Sea Scallop - Katayifi, Pear Brown Butter, Hilbeh, Pepita Dukkah
Panna Cotta - Delicata Squash, Pomegranate

Overview – Purslane is a casual upscale Mediterranean restaurant in Milwaukee’s East Side. They occupy a fairly small, open kitchen, subterranean space previously inhabited by Ardent.

Tuna Naya – Minced raw tuna mixed with sauces, topped with crispy togarashi rice, and with a garnish of micro greens. The tuna was surprisingly spicy with heat dominating the tuna flavor. Nice contrast of crispy crunchy and soft tuna.

Meze – Excellent hummus - slightly pasty and topped with vibrant olive oil. Sweet potato skordalia was very smooth and had a complex flavor reminiscent of fermented fish (in a good way). Muhammara was smoky and a roasted pepper flavor blast. Pita was great - hot and chewy with lightly crispy edges, nice yeast character.

Harissa Wings – Crispy fried wings, juicy meat. A very thick and bold sauce with mild heat, richness, and lots of nice flavor. Kohlrabi slaw offered nice visual and textural contrast as well as a fresh note. Ranch was good and a creamy contrast to the wings.

Scallops – Scallops themselves felt virtually raw, had a slippery texture rather than soft. Salty, briny. Katayifi added crispy textures. Pear brown butter was virtually a salted caramel sauce which was delicious but a weird pairing. Pepita dukkah added nutty note. Kind of a weird dish that didn’t come together for me well.

Panna Cotta – Panna cotta was way overset and rubbery. Squash puree was smooth but kind of bitter. Molasses was nice and pomegranate seeds added nice look. Granola added great textural contrast. Overall flavor wasn’t sweet enough and just didn’t taste very good to me while textures were also not very good.

Overall – This was inconsistent. I really liked the meze and wings, the tuna was pleasant enough but out of balance, and I found the scallops and panna cotta to be misses. I’m way behind in posting these, so this meal was from late 2025 and I hope that Purslane has matured and improved consistency.

08/07/2026

Frontera Grill – Chicago, IL
Overall: A-

Tamales de Elote, Esquites Fritos - Sweet corn tamales steamed in banana leaves, fried corn esquites (butter, epazote, lime), homemade crema & añejo cheese, smoky powdered chile (guajillo, chipotle)
Enchiladas de Mole - Handmade corn tortillas, Amish country chicken (caramelized onions), homemade mole poblano (27 ingredients), crunchy garnishes
Carnes al Carbon Para Tacos - Wood-grilled Creekstone flank steak marinated in garlic & spices for making tacos. Tortillas of Mexican organic heirloom corn, grilled shish*tos, poblano rajas, beans, two salsas, guacamole

Overview – Frontera Grill is a Mexican restaurant in Chicago’s River North neighborhood. Opened nearly 40 years ago, they are the flagship of Rick Bayless’s Frontera restaurant group and are located adjacent to Topolobampo, Xoco, and Bar Sotano. They have earlned many awards including the James Beard Outstanding Restaurant award in 2007. Frontera has a medium-size space with low top tables and low lighting.

Tamales – A mix of fresh charred sweet corn and complex masa flavor. Tangy crema, salty and umami anejo cheese. Pop of chile character. Very pleasant.

Mole – Complex mole character - sort of sweet, nutty, umami. Nice tortilla texture. Chicken was well cooked.

Tacos – Medium-grilled steak, flavorful but not as flavorful as it could have been. Pretty tender. Poblano rajas (poblano and onion), sweet caramelized. Charred shish*tos, all were mild but nice vegetal pepper character. Rich and creamy guacamole, a good rendition. Beans were really good, well cooked with just a bit of body, balanced richness, good blend of spices. Salsas were both vibrant – a very tomatillo forward salsa verde, and a smokier and more vibrant salsa roja. Both low-med heat. Excellent tortillas, great masa flavor and tenderness.

Summary – I can’t imagine how groundbreaking a restaurant like Frontera Grill would have been back when it first opened. While it still showcased great ingredients and a modern take on traditional Mexican dishes that resulted in a great meal, I don’t think that Frontera Grill stands out as much as it would due to an increase in restaurants with a similar concept – no doubt in part due to the influence and success of Frontera. Furthermore, it represents a nice gourmet casual option in a part of Chicago where the restaurants seem to trends either more casual or more formal.

08/05/2026

Xoco – Chicago, IL
Overall: B+

Traditional Churros
Classic Bean-To-Cup Chocolate - Fresh-ground chocolate & whole milk. Mexican cacao beans ground in-house

Overview – Xoco is a Mexican restaurant in Chicago’s River North neighborhood. They’re part of the Frontera restaurant and CPG empire and are adjacent to Frontera Grill, Topolobampo, and Bar Sotano. Xoco is casual and is known for their hot chocolate (alongside a full savory menu).

Chocolate – Great milky chocolate flavor with a lot of complexity. Thick like chocolate milk but not like a decadent sipping chocolate.

Churros - Crispy with moist and tender interior. Sweet from a heavy coating of sugar. Very tasty dipped in the hot chocolate!

Summary – It was more understated than I thought it might be but was still delicious.

08/04/2026

m.henry – Chicago, IL
Overall – A-

Chilaquiles with Chorizo - housemade corn tortilla chips, salsa roja, eggs any style, crème fraiche, queso fresco, cilantro. served with sweet cubano plantians and black beans
Cinnamon Roll French Toast - french toast made with our house baked brioche cinnamon roll, layered with warm seasonal fruit, vanilla neufchatel crème & topped with our housemade granola

Overview – m.henry is a brunch restaurant in Chicago’s Andersonville neighborhood. They had a medium-size space with a warm worn-in feel.

Chilaquiles – Soft tortilla chips in flavorful salsa with mild but present heat. Beans were noticeably flavorful with a mixture of bean pits and bean puree. Eggs were soft and velvety. Chorizo added a great savory character, cotija brough saltiness, sour cream introduced creamy richness, and cilantro offered some herbaceous balance. Came together to a great mix. Plantains were a little under-tender for me, felt like a waste of space. Other than that, a great dish.

French Toast – A giant cinnamon roll Frech-toasted, stuffed with Neufchatel, topped with granola, and served sea of sweet, warm, mostly-cherries fruit salad. Cinnamon didn’t come through much at all, most of the flavor came from the fruit. Neufchatel added richness and tang while granola added a little textural contrast. The brioche cinnamon roll had a nice tender crumb but enough structure to maintain form. This would have been too sweet on its own, but it balanced really well against the chilaquiles.

Summary - Everything I want from comfort. Generous portions, approachable dishes that are interesting enough to keep my attention, simple but impactful flavors and textures

08/03/2026

Birch – Milwaukee, WI
Overall: B+

Squash & Ricotta-Filled Pasta - Honeynut Squash, Brown Butter & Hazelnut
Birch Burger
Grilled Cabbage - Smoked Ham Hock Broth & Alpinage Raclette

Overview - Birch is a fine dining restaurant in Milwaukee’s Lowest East Side neighborhood. Their menu is focused on seasonal, ingredient-driven sharable plates with an emphasis on open hearth cooking. Their space is medium-large and includes a bar room, an extended dining bar which overlooks the open kitchen, and a dining room.

Pasta – The pasta itself was amazing – very tender, lightly springy, a very creamy rich filling. Hazelnut crunch and nuttiness was great but they tasted over-toasted and slightly bitter. Sauce was rich and surprisingly acidic, pushing the boundaries of what tasted good.

Burger – Birch offers a cheeseburger exclusively in their bar area. Ther burger came with two cheese-topped patties, pickles, diced onion, and special sauce on a toasted bun. It featured a balance of great flavors from beef, cheese, and onion complemented by a soft bun. The first time I had this burger, it was a 10/10 and blew my mind. This time, it didn’t feel as vibrant and was good but not at that same standout level.

Cabbage – Tender cabbage, charred on the bottom. Layered with raclette and mint. Acidic ham hock broth on bottom. It didn’t have quite the vibrancy I wanted but was nicely balanced.

Summary – This was my third trip to Birch over several years. While they’re certainly one of the most ambitious restaurants in Milwaukee and push the envelope on the creativity, ingredient sourcing, and preparations that we typically see around here, I’ve found ex*****on to be a little inconsistent. Flashes of brilliance are accompanied by little flaws which, if resolved (or avoided by luck), could transform a meal there to a magical experience.

08/02/2026

Ono Kine Grindz – Wauwatosa, WI
Overall: B+

Kalua Pig Plate - Hawaiian smoked pulled pork and alae salt. Served with rice and 2 sides (Macaroni Potato Salad and Kim Chee)
Garlic Butter Shrimp Bento Box - Jumbo shrimp sauteed in butter and garlic. Includes rice and one side (Li-Hing Carrot Pineapple Slaw)
Lilikoi Passionfruit Cake

Overview - Ono Kine Grindz is a Hawaiian restaurant, deli, and grocer in east Wauwatosa. They have a small shop with a few tables scattered amongst racks of clothing and dry goods but primarily do takeout.

Pork – Rich, moist, big smoke and pork flavors. I’m not sure how the pork was smoked but the smoke character was very distinct and different from other pulled pork I’ve had. Definitely among my favorite renditions in Milwaukee.

Macaroni Potato Salad – I believe this is the only Ono Kine Grindz side I haven’t had before. It was simple with a balanced amount of rich mayo coating tender macaroni and potato. Simple mayo salads aren’t usually my jam but I found this to be surprisingly nice.

Kimchi – Moderately spicy, moderately vegetal, moderately funky. An awesome pairing that cuts through the richness and smoke of the pork.

Rice – Served lightly warm. Sticky and slightly sweet.

Shrimp – Tender and juicy but under-seasoned. I’ve had this dish be fantastic with big buttery flavors reminiscent of lobster in the past, but this time it didn’t reach that high. Served on bed of shredded cabbage with tangy radish pickle.

Carrot Pineapple Slaw - Nicely sweet with li hing spice character

Cake – Fairly moist cake with a basic frosting and sweet passionfruit topping. A tasty end to the meal, but I wouldn’t put it among Ono Kine Grindz must-order menu items.

Summary – Even though Ono Kine Grindz is pretty well known, I feel like it’s still slept on for offering some of the best value food in town. Their affordable dishes consistently wow with their big flavors.

07/24/2026

Allie Boy’s Bagelry & Luncheonette – Milwaukee, WI
Overall: A-

Toasted Za’atar Bagel with Labneh & Spring Herb Cream Cheese
Smoked Turkey Rachel Sandwich - House Smoked & Brined Turkey Breast, Roth Grand Cru Cheese, Sauerkraut Salad, Dill, Pickles, Special Sauce
Griddled Sausage Stuffed Bagel - Our House Plain Bagel Stuffed with Taleggio Cheese, Capped with Hobb’s Fennel Sausage, Seared on the Griddle & Topped with a Salad of Shaved Fennel & Herbs Dressed with a Giardiniera Vinaigrette
Snickerdoodle Cookie - Brown Butter & Dark Rum Snickerdoodle with Allspice & Clove

Overview - Allie Boy’s is a gourmet New York-style Jewish deli and bagel shop. They offer gourmet bagels, bagel sandwiches, and bagel-adjacent foods. They have locations in Milwaukee’s Walker’s Point and East Side, where I visited.

Zaatar Bagel – The bagel itself was great – lightly crispy from toasting, lightly crisp crust from the bake. HEAVILY coated in zaatar which contributed a fantastic herb character that paired perfect with the vibrant fresh herbs in the thick, rich, and creamy labneh cream cheese.

Smoked Turkey Rachel –Minimal smoke on moist and tender turkey. Some cheese richness. Mild purple cabbage sauerkraut, tangy pickles, rich special sauce. Milder sandwich flavors allowed the pumpernickel bagel flavor to come through better. Not my favorite Allie Boy’s sandwich but still solid and well balanced.

Griddled Stuffed Bagel – Incredible. Scooped-out bagel filled with now-molten taleggio and a thick boldly flavorful sausage patty. Supper rich and savory, leaking fat and juices. Reminded me a lot of a Lou Malnati’s sausage pizza in a good way. Assertively fennel salad was perfect way to cut through with big allium bite and herb freshness. This was a really phenomenal dish that reminded me just how good Allie Boy’s can be when they hit.

Snickerdoodle – A good cookie, but not transcendent like the last time I had it. Flavors were more muted and it was more heavily baked leaving it crispy on the edges and dried out in the middle.

Summary – The Grilled Stuffed Bagel was the stuff of dreams. The zaatar bagel was simple perfection. The turkey Rachel and snickerdoodle were good but underwhelming by comparison.

From Pan To Mouth

08/30/2026

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07/24/2026

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