Heather’s Feathers

06/25/2025

06/25/2025

Wonderful save!

06/25/2025

Please take precautions to protect your flock from extreme heat. If you find the conditions too hot for yourself when you are in the run or coop with your birds, then it's not suitable for your chickens.
There are numerous modifications you can make to the environment to decrease the temperature and make it more tolerable for your birds.
Signs of heat stress include:
👉Open mouth breathing
👉Rapid panting
👉Hyperextension of their neck
👉Holding their wings away from their body.
Refer to our website for additional information - https://poultrydvm.com/featured-infographic/keeping-chickens-from-overheating

10/26/2024

Do not ever amputate anything from your chicken.

“It looks like it cauterized itself.” What an idiot.

Cutting digits, legs, wings, combs, wattles from a bird’s body is torture. If you cannot get to a vet, the humane thing to do is euthanize the bird as painlessly as possible. If you or someone you know does something like this and posts it in MY group, I will hunt down wherever you or they live and report you for animal cruelty.

People making jokes on this thread, telling the OP to put honey on it. . . This is why I sm not a member of these groups. Don’t refer these people to me—I cannot fix stupid.

07/07/2024

Chickens have a unique respiratory system. Since they don’t have a diaphragm like humans do, they breathe by changing the pressure in their air sacs with their chest muscles. To pull air in, they push their breastbone out. To breathe out, they squeeze the air sacs with muscles.

On their backs, chickens are unable to breathe and will suffocate. Some of you may have seen this recommended as a method for handling an “aggressive” rooster. Sure, the rooster becomes less reactive because they’re slowly being suffocated. Do it long enough or frequently enough and the rooster will die.

06/03/2024

My fellow chickeneers,

We are living in unprecedented times. (Not really, but dramatic, right?)

For the first time in ten years of chickeneering (yup, I’m making up words), I find my flock overrun by those itty bitty, evil invaders: depluming mites. I am heartened to know that I am not alone. Depluming mites are a topic in every FB chicken group I’m in. Fear not, my friends; we are not beaten.

I had read about them, but I thought they must have only been in certain regions of the US (not mine) because I have never personally encountered them. Welp, this spring, these bleeping depluming mites have reared their miserable little heads in my flock, and just when I think I’m rid of them, I see a chicken shaking its head, biting its tail, and scratching its neck. No! It cannot be.... Oh, but it is.

After throwing everything in my arsenal at those @&! # little %+$ for weeks, they are still here! How is it possible? Have they invented teeny, tiny microscopic hazmat suits? After more curse words (there aren’t enough symbols on my keyboard), I took a deep breath and thought rationally about it (ok, there may have been tears and cocktails involved prior to reason.)

The chickens I treated are not showing new areas of mites. I’m seeing new areas on different chickens, which actually aligns with everything I’ve read about depluming mites: These mites spend their entire life on a single chicken, give birth instead of laying eggs, and spread through direct contact between birds.

This means, instead of managing parasites at the flock level as I have been trained to do, I need to adjust my approach to managing individual birds. Since Depluming mites don’t survive off of birds, I don’t need to strip and spray coops (yay!), but if I miss the signs of depluming mites on a single chicken, they will continue to plague my flock for all eternity (boo!).

I don’t know many things for certain, but I do know this: Elector works. I have used it so sparingly with my flock (because $$$$ ouch) that there is no way I have developed *big booming voice* Super Depluming Mites resistant to it.

Today, I am going to thoroughly inspect my flock for signs of depluming mites (spots on the backs of necks, bases of tails with broken, missing, chewed feathers; dry, red, flaky skin) and treat those birds, noting the name of the bird and date in my chicken journal. I will do daily inspections of chickens I haven’t treated and note if they’re clear or if I treated them that day. After 14 days, I will go back to those chickens I treated the first day to look for new spots of infestation or if the original spots of infestation have expanded. The original spots won’t look better because those chewed and broken feathers won’t be replaced until they are pushed out during this fall’s molt by new pin feathers.

Are you with me so far?

After that 14th day, I will add re-inspections of treated birds to the daily inspections of untreated birds.

This approach will work for me because it fits with my flock size and management methods since I inspect and note everything about my flock anyway. There are other approaches (for example, treat the whole flock on day 1, again on day 14, inspect, and possibly treat on day 28).

All of the articles I read said that once they are in your flock, they are extremely difficult to eliminate, so if you are struggling with these jerks like I am, manage your expectations as you begin treatment. The scientific articles say that three anti-parasitics are effective against depluming mites: Permethrin, Elector PSP (note, those pesticides with Spinosad sold in hardware stores won’t work as they only have 10% of Spinosad), and Ivermectin.

I know many people who have treated their flocks with Ivermectin multiple times over an extended period, and they are still seeing depluming mites. Given their results and how easily chickens are accidentally overdosed and killed by Ivermectin, I am not going to use it nor do I recommend it. I am choosing Elector because of its safety profile as well as its effectiveness since my method has the potential to expose me, my chickens, and cats to it daily. (Btw, Permethrin is extremely toxic to cats.) However, if you want to use it, you can absolutely manage daily exposure with PPE and careful application.

This, my friends, is war. I’m gonna need you to give your inner panicking protective poultry parent (oooh alliteration, my inner English major is tickled) a cup of tea, a copy of *Extraordinary Chickens*, and let your inner science nerd shamelessly reign supreme. Oh wait, am I mixing my metaphors? Maybe channel your inner general... yeah, that works better.

Friends, battles may be won or lost daily, but in this war, together (symbolically since we live all over the world), we shall be victorious! Now, grab those muck boots and notebooks and get to work!

I hope I have properly inspired and motivated you to rise to this challenge because, seriously, these mites are painful and debilitating to your flock.

Remember:
- Depluming mites give birth (no eggs)
- Have 17-day life cycles
- Are invisible to the naked eye
- Embed in the skin around the feather shaft
- Leave no debris

Total as****es, right?

Comment here with questions and concerns about depluming mites. Disagreements with my metaphor choices can be emailed to me at Idonotcarewhatyouthinkaboutmycreativechoices@heatherwillneveropenthis.com. 😘

*AI generated photo based on my personal photo posted in comments.

04/27/2024

During Flystrike season, treat your chicken's wound with care. Apply Swat fly repellent around the wound, not on it, to prevent flies from laying eggs and causing deadly Flystrike. If you cover the wound, put Swat on the bandage as well.

03/03/2024

Heat lamps are not a safe way to heat your coop.

Well the chicks we just posted were burnt up in a brooder fire this morning
To anyone using heat bulbs for brooding beware the brand new bulbs exploded looks like and set it on fire
This is 9 years doing this and never a issue
Last time I’ll ever use a bulb

03/01/2024

What is “Cocci?”
By Heather Kurlinski

With spring just around the corner, chicken tenders are drooling over hatchery catalogs and checking chick availability from their favorite local dealer, er, I mean breeder and dreaming of all the new fluffy butts that will be decorating their yards this summer. In chicken groups, members are posting questions as they design their perfect flock: Which breed is the friendliest? What size coop do I need? How do I get my chickens to roost? And of course there is lots of discussion about cocci, its symptoms and treatment to the point that even the newest novice is diagnosing bloody f***s as cocci and prescribing corid. It all seems so simple, except that no one seems to understand what they’re treating, even as they tell someone to give their chicks Corid. Cocci is not a disease or illness; it is or rather, they are parasites.

Coccidia are a group of microscopic, spore-forming, single-celled parasites that infect the intestinal tracts of animals. These parasites specifically target the intestinal tract of birds, livestock, and other animals. Chickens are particularly susceptible to developing coccidiosis, a disease characterized by the destruction of the intestinal lining, leading to impaired nutrient absorption, severe diarrhea, and in severe cases, death.

Coccidia complete their life cycle within a single host, where they undergo both asexual and sexual reproduction, leading to the shedding of oocysts (organisms) in the host’s f***s, which can then infect other animals upon ingestion.

There are several species of coccidia that can infect chickens, with each species affecting different parts of the intestine. Some of the most common species include:

• Eimeria tenella: Affects the ceca and can cause bloody diarrhea.
• Eimeria necatrix: Infects the mid-intestine, leading to severe damage and possible mortality.
• Eimeria acervulina: Targets the upper intestine, causing malabsorption and maldigestion.
• Eimeria maxima: Affects the mid to lower intestine, leading to mucoid or bloody f***s.

In total, there are about seven species of Eimeria that are known to commonly infect chickens, each with varying degrees of pathogenicity (ability to infect host).

Vaccination against coccidia is critical in poultry management due to the high morbidity and mortality rates associated with coccidiosis. The disease can lead to significant economic losses due to decreased productivity, increased mortality, and the cost of treatment. Vaccines help to induce immunity in the flock by exposing them to controlled doses of live, attenuated (weakened) or killed coccidia oocysts, thereby preparing the birds’ immune systems to fight off natural infections.

Symptoms of coccidiosis in chickens vary depending on the species of coccidia involved but generally include:

• Diarrhea, which may be bloody in severe cases
• Weight loss or poor weight gain
• Reduced feed intake
• Dehydration
• Ruffled feathers
• Decreased egg production in layers
• Increased mortality if not treated promptly

Treatment for coccidiosis primarily involves the use of anticoccidial medications, which can be administered through feed or water. Commonly used drugs include amprolium, toltrazuril, and sulfa-based drugs. It is important to follow the prescribed treatment regimen closely and to rotate between different classes of anticoccidials to prevent the development of drug resistance.

In addition to medication, management practices such as maintaining good hygiene, reducing stress in the flock, and implementing appropriate biosecurity measures can help in controlling the spread of coccidiosis.

The best way to avoid the negative consequences of a coccidiosis outbreak in your flock is to avoid it altogether; so, when you place your order for your dream flock, tell the breeder/hatchery that yes, you want your chicks vaccinated against coccidiosis (and Marek’s but that’s an article for another day).

02/28/2024

How to Teach a Rooster to Sit

I wanted to demonstrate this technique that Sheila Harmon taught me that I have found very useful in working with my new rescued rooster, Ember. Since Ember only has one functioning leg, teaching him to sit has not only made diapering and treating him easier, it gave us something productive to work on together and to build our bond. I think it has helped Ember to trust me more quickly than with previous rescued roosters. Let me know if you have any questions.

01/24/2024

THE DIRT ON POULTRY GRIT

By Heather Kurlinski

Poultry grit may not be the most glamorous aspect of chicken keeping: It doesn't come in an array of vibrant colors or fancy packaging. Yet, its importance in a chicken yard is unparalleled. Just like a home needs its foundations, every chicken yard should be liberally decorated with dishes of poultry grit. This humble but essential element plays a critical role in the health and well-being of your feathered friends. Why is poultry grit a non-negotiable in your chicken care routine. Let’s find out.

WHAT IS POULTRY GRIT?
Poultry grit is more than just a bunch of rocks; it's a vital component in a chicken's digestive process. There are two main types: insoluble grit, like small stones or gravel, and soluble grit, made from materials like oyster shell. Insoluble grit aids in grinding down food in the gizzard, functioning like teeth. Soluble grit, on the other hand, dissolves in the chicken's system, supplying essential calcium for strong eggshells and healthy bones.

WHY DO CHICKENS NEED GRIT?
Understanding a chicken's digestive system is key to appreciating the importance of grit. Chickens don’t have teeth, so they can't chew food in the traditional sense. Instead, they rely on their gizzard, a strong muscular part of the stomach, to break down food. Grit acts as the teeth in this process, grinding the food mixed with digestive juices for efficient nutrient absorption.

TYPES OF POULTRY GRIT
When it comes to poultry grit, not all types are created equal. Each serves a unique purpose in your chickens' health and well-being.

Insoluble Grit
Often made from hard, gritty materials like *granite* or flint*, it remains in the gizzard, helping to grind down food for digestion. (Note, grit is not made from random rocks of unknown origin found in your roadway.)

Soluble Grit
Typically consists of oyster shells, limestone, or similar calcium-rich materials, providing essential calcium for bone health and eggshell strength.

Mixed Grit
A combination of insoluble and soluble grit, offering the benefits of both types in one convenient product.

PROVIDING GRIT TO YOUR FLOCK
There are a variety of options when it comes to providing grit to your flock. I don’t know any two chicken tenders who do it exactly the same way. Try some options and see what works best for you and your fluff nuggets.

Feeder Placement
Position grit feeders in a dry, accessible spot, protected from rain.

Separate from Feed
Offer grit separately from their regular feed to allow chickens to consume as needed.

Regular Checks
Check for mold, mildew, p**p, and insects and refill grit feeders regularly.

Age-Appropriate Grit
Provide finer grit for younger chickens and larger pieces for adults. Sometimes sick or senior chickens do better with smaller grit.

COMMON MISTAKES TO AVOID

Overlooking Grit Size
Inappropriate sizes can lead to inefficiency in digestion, impacted or sour crop or even choking.

Inconsistent Supply
Not keeping a consistent supply of dry, clean, fresh grit can disrupt your chickens' digestive health.

Mixing Grit and Feed
Avoid mixing grit directly with feed as this may lead to a gut imbalance or send your chicken hunting for that one special piece of grit, leaving the feed all over the yard.

Underestimating Calcium Needs
Laying hens may need more calcium than their feed provides, so always have oyster grit avalailable to supplement her feed—a frequent mistake for new chicken tenders.

In the world of chicken keeping, the small things often make the biggest difference. Poultry grit, while seemingly mundane, is an essential component of a healthy and thriving chicken environment.

Happy chickening. And remember, Facts over Feelings!

FURTHER READING
Books:
"The Chicken Health Handbook" by Gail Damerow: A comprehensive guide covering all aspects of chicken health, including nutrition and care.

"Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens" by Gail Damerow: Offers in-depth information about chicken care, feeding, and housing.

Websites:
The Chicken Chick: Provides researched, science-based articles on poultry care and management from a personal perspective.

BackYard Chickens: A community forum with discussions on various chicken-keeping topics.