07/18/2026
Advice (for what its worth)
I've been talking to a lot of newer breeders at the last couple of shows in particular, and I thought I'd compile some of the issues that have come up, maybe it can help someone? These are in general observations and not targeted at anyone.
1- Aninals offered as purebred, pedigreed, show quality etc, does not necessarily equal good show winning rabbits.
We've all seen the adds selling 8 week old pedigreed show quality rabbits and known we wouldn't have let that leave the barn breathing. To someone starting out, they're trusting the breeder to not steer them wrong. Some breeders don't know/care, and for others they might be the best rabbits they've produced. You never know. A buyer should have an idea of what they need/what a good example of the breed is, but we all start somewhere. I wish I could tell my show winners from culls at 8 weeks old, I can't and I've been doing it for like 20 years or more.
If you want a show quality, competitive rabbit, buy a senior(so you know it makes weight), with a proven show record. At the very least, buy from a breeder with a proven show record. Just because the parents were winners, does not mean the offspring will be quality. I've gotten just as many culls from grand champion rabbits as I have from brood quality.
2- price/pedigree does not equal quality!
I've seen people spend a lot of money thinking they were getting a winning rabbit, but they didn't really evaluate the animla in front of them. I've seen pedigrees full of grand champion rabbits and the rabbit in front of me was a cull. I've seen some really nice rabbits without a pedigree, I'll pick the 2nd rabbit every single time, no hesitation. Price is subjective. Quality can be a regional or variety factor. You may be able to buy a higher quality castor or otter for the same price as a decent amber or tri(again, depends on area). Colours like castor, black, and otter are more popular, there are more high quality animals available so you can get a pretty decent rabbit easier than say a tri. Quality varies greatly from area to area and between breeds. Do some research on your chosen breed/variety. Joining their breed club can also be a great place to start. I know with rex you get a handle little guide book full of great info!
3- buying 1 higher quality animal vs several cheaper animals will get you ahead sooner. For example, someone chose to buy a breeding group of 4 random coloured rex from a breeder for the same price as 1 high quality buck from a different show breeder. They tried for a couple years to breed those animals up and even with ruthless culling they didn't get up to the quality level they already had at home. Not to mention the colours weren't compatible so they made a bunch of colour culls on top of type faults. If she bought the high quality buck that was compatible with the colours they had at home, they would have been in such a better position by that point. But if you have a budget, you're better off getting a good quality pair, over trying to get as many animals as you can.
4- Show quality IS meat quality!
Too many people say meat quality like it's better/different than show quality. SOP bred rex are bred for meat! They have thick, well muscled bodies that dress well. Often what I see advertised as meat quality are actually cull quality. They are long, flat, pinched, or poorly fleshed. If I dressed that along side one of my culls I guarantee you'd want the show cull. The one thing I will agree on is growth rates. Some people's meat lines grow faster than their show lines, that's worth knowing but to me doesn't make up for a poorly fleshed rabbit. Ask questions, find what works for you and cull to make it work even better for your line.
5- listen to all advice, choose what fits best for you and your situation. The more you know, the easier you will spot questionable advice. Knowing basic genetics is never a bad thing for example. You'll be able to spot faked pedigrees easier that way. What works up in the north for a breeder with a climate controlled barn might not work great for rabbits kept in a carport in Florida and vice versa. Someone with 500 holes to work with might manage their herd completely different than a person with 20 holes. There are so many factors that come into play for herd management that there is no one size fits all. But you never know when you'll pick up something that will really help you out.
What is the best piece of advice you can give or that you've learned over the years, or maybe wish you knew sooner?
