05/27/2026
How quickly we seek and embrace age in wine, but not ourselves. Tertiary is when things get interesting. Deep wrinkles are stories, a life lived. Here are some notes from recent time travelings.
💜I hear the 2004 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is good the morning after. It went from beefy to the finest puffed corn. Honey, gas, apricots, peach gummy rings. The nose goes on and on. Addicted to the shindig. Cantaloupe. Medium bitter acid and medium body. and on and on…it was beautiful. Uncontestedly Purple Hearted.
🍷The 1985 Schioppettino got a lot of notes too, but the real beauty here was the 1989 : When I blind beans on the nose, especially green beans, I go to the Pape, and I’m generally correct. This also had a real field-blend vibe that helped get there—such a lovely, complex wine, ranging from fresh cherries and violets, to coagulated blood, smoke, game, leather, to***co, and on and on. Still a lot of life left here! “It’s only 8:30, my cardiologist would be pleased.”
🍷1985 Château de Beaucastel, just days after: It’s not tit, it’s b**b.
🍷1979 Oltrepo Pavese. A rustic field blend from Croatina, Uva Rara, Ughetta, and Barbera. Bloody and brooding. Absolutely fascinating and a shining example of ‘s massive and very special Italian wine list in Brooklyn, NY.
🍷1959 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay: Celery salt and hay with yellow apples and vanilla honey. A Jura if I ever did smell one. Acid still so alive!! I would’ve never guessed such age, and felt it still had a few more left in it! This family has been making wine since the 16th century, one of the Jura’s oldest.
🍷1996 Clos des Goisses Brut: From Mareuil-sur-Ay, a nutty nose with green apples and croissants alongside orange blossoms, honey, and lemon curd. The mouth packs a punch of crisp, high acidity and intense flavor concentration while fine, persistent bubbles dance along a creamy lemon mousse. A real WOW for the mouth!
For the full report, head over to www.kendalmontgomery.com 😘