L&J Orchard, Tree Farm, and Permaculture

L&J Orchard, Tree Farm, and Permaculture We were founded in 2013 by Lydia Boyd and are located in Niangua Missouri. Our goal is to grow food, live sustainably, and to educate people about farming.

We do it all, we grow food, we teach, we treat people right. If you need food and information, you have come to the right place.

Operating as usual



This man’s collection of lost apples varieties.

He has a website that you can buy saplings from!! This is a great way to fight back against corporate farming and the destruction of heirloom foods (which while usually ‘ugly’, are heartier, and more nutritious than store bought varieties, and more delicious).


It’s sooner then you think

July garden, our new baby calf, "Daisy," pretty flowers and busy pollinators

July garden, our new baby calf, "Daisy," pretty flowers and busy pollinators

Happy Fourth of July

Happy Fourth of July

There's A Giant Lavender Labyrinth In Michigan And The Photos Are Gorgeous
There's A Giant Lavender Labyrinth In Michigan And The Photos Are Gorgeous

There's A Giant Lavender Labyrinth In Michigan And The Photos Are Gorgeous

Labyrinths are beautiful. Their circular, geometric paths allow for walking meditations, and they are rich with symbolism. Some people have made the analogy that walking through a labyrinth is like taking a journey to the center of one’s self and then, eventually, emerging back into the world. Now...

Building a treehouse out of old pallets. #recylcle #landjorchard #hipcamp For enjoyment by the kids and the campers

Building a treehouse out of old pallets. #recylcle #landjorchard #hipcamp For enjoyment by the kids and the campers

The Farmacy

The Farmacy

Little pepper defender

Little pepper defender


Our devoted mother muscovies have been sitting on their nests for weeks! Now, the eggs have hatched and cute lil' ducklings are roaming the yard!

Out-Of-Work Appalachian Coal Miners Retrained As Beekeepers
Out-Of-Work Appalachian Coal Miners Retrained As Beekeepers

Out-Of-Work Appalachian Coal Miners Retrained As Beekeepers

Non-profit offers free beekeeping classes, bees and equipment to displaced coal miners, improving the local economy and protecting threatened bee populations The declining coal industry has left nearly 100,000 former miners unemployed in West Virginia. But a new nonprofit called the Appalachian Beek...



Psychedelic Adventure

Psychedelic Adventure


World Wildlife Defense

World Wildlife Defense

Come follow our page for more updates like this.

Well good morning there, my little pest-controlling friend!  I hope you enjoy this greenhouse home and decide to stay aw...

Well good morning there, my little pest-controlling friend! I hope you enjoy this greenhouse home and decide to stay awhile!

Blind Melon

Blind Melon

Here's some Change for your weekend... #BlindMelon

Learn all the layers of the rhizosphere and get the most out of your garden or food forests 🌳

Learn all the layers of the rhizosphere and get the most out of your garden or food forests 🌳


If you’ve ever wandered back roads in a developing, tropical country, you know that many of the locals grow much of their own food. You might also have noticed that their food gardens aren’t comprised entirely of small annual vegetables planted in straight rows like ours are. They are typically wild-looking plantings of edible trees, shrubs, vines, and groundcovers all mingling effortlessly together, as if Mother Nature had planted the garden according to her own design. These are literally forests of food.

Forest gardening has been the standard for millennia in many tropical regions, but it’s possible in more temperate climes as well. A British chap by the name of Robert Hart first popularized the concept among European and North American gardeners with the publication of his book Forest Gardening: Cultivating an Edible Landscape in the 1980s. Food forests have also figured prominently in the permaculture movement, an approach to designing agricultural systems that mimic natural ecosystems.

Why Food Forests?
Food forests are like the ultimate organic garden. Does a forest need tilling, w**ding, fertilizer, or irrigation? Nope. And that’s the goal.

Because they’re mostly perennial crops, there’s no need to till. Not tilling preserves the natural soil structure, preventing the loss of topsoil and allowing all the little microbes and soil critters to do their jobs, cycling nutrients and maintaining fertility. The deep roots of trees and shrubs make them much more drought tolerant than annual vegetables, and they shade the smaller plants below, keeping everything lush and moist in a self-maintaining—in other words, a highly sustainable—system.

Step 1: Choose Plants
The first step in establishing a food forest is to choose your plants. The largest plants will reach into the sun, so most common fruiting trees and shrubs are fair game. The smaller plants generally need to be more shade tolerant, as they will be in the under story. But you can leave sunny patches here and there—like little forest clearings—to accommodate species that need more light (though see Step 3 for a trick to make the most of the available sunlight).

Winter is the ideal time to get started, because most edible trees, shrubs, vines, and herbaceous plants can be purchased and planted while dormant, which is better for the plants—and for your bank account. That’s because at this time of year they are sold in “bare root” form—meaning without soil or a pot—which gives the roots a more natural structure and costs less for nurseries to produce. Bare root plants are typically ordered in January or February, for planting in early March, or as soon as the ground thaws in your area. Naturally, you’ll want to stick with species that are well-adapted to your region.

Canopy: This layer is primarily for large nut trees that require full sun throughout the day, such as pecans, walnuts, and chestnuts, all of which mature to a height of 50 feet or more.

Under story Trees: This layer is for smaller nut trees, like filberts, and the majority of fruit trees. The most shade tolerant fruit trees include native North American species like black mulberry, American persimmon and pawpaw, though many other fruit trees will produce a respectable crop in partial shade.

Vines: Grapes, kiwis, and passion fruit are the most well-known edible vines, though there are many other more obscure specimens to consider, some of which are quite shade tolerant, such as akebia (edible fruit), chayote (a perennial squash), and groundnuts (perennial root crop). Kolomitka kiwi, a close relative of the fuzzy kiwis found in supermarkets, is among the most shade-tolerant vines.
Shrubs: A large number of fruiting shrubs thrive in partial shade, including gooseberries, currants, serviceberries, huckleberry, elderberry, aronia, and honeyberry, along with the “superfoods” sea berry and goji.

Herbaceous plants: This category includes not only plants commonly thought of as herbs—rosemary, thyme, oregano, lavender, mint and sage are a few of the top perennial culinary herbs to consider for your forest garden—but is a catch-all term for all leafy plants that go dormant below ground in winter and re-sprout from their roots in spring. This layer is where perennial vegetables, like artichokes, rhubarb, asparagus and “tree collards” fit in
Ground covers: These are perennial plants that spread horizontally to colonize the ground plane. Edible examples include alpine strawberries (a shade tolerant delicacy), sorrel (a French salad green), nasturtiums (has edible flowers and leaves), and watercress (requires wet soil), all of which tolerate part shade.

Rhizosphere: This refers to root crops. It’s a bit misleading to call it a separate layer, since the top portion of a root crop may be a vine, shrub, groundcover or herb, but it’s Hart’s way of reminding us to consider the food-producing potential of every possible ecological niche. Most common root crops are sun-loving annuals, however so you’ll have to look to more obscure species, such as the fabled Andean root vegetables oca, ulluco, yacon, and mashua, for shade-tolerant varieties.

Step 2: Prepare the Ground
Choose an open, sunny location for your forest garden. It can be as small as 100 square feet—a single fruit tree and an assortment of understory plants—or multiple acres. At the larger, commercial-scale end of the spectrum, forest gardening is often referred to as agroforestry. A number of tropical crops, including coffee and chocolate, are grown commercially in this way, though commercial agroforestry is uncommon in North America (other than in the context of timber plantations).

Unlike preparing for a conventional vegetable garden, there is no need to till the earth and form it into beds in preparation for a forest garden. Instead, dig a hole for each individual plant, just as if you were planting ornamental shrubs and trees. However, if the soil quality is poor, you may wish to “top-dress” the entire planting area with several inches of compost prior to planting.

One situation in which raised beds are desirable in a food forest is where drainage is poor. But rather than make the effort to construct conventional raised beds from wood, you may opt to sculpt the earth into low, broad mounds at the location of each tree. Smaller plants may then be positioned along the slopes of the mounds. A variation on this approach is to sculpt the earth into long linear “swales,” which consist of a raised berm (to provide a well-drained planting location) and a broad, shallow ditch (to collect rainwater runoff and force it to percolate into the soil beneath the planting berm).

You will need to eliminate any w**ds, grass or other existing vegetation prior to planting. This can be done manually, or by smothering them under a “sheet mulch,” a permaculture tactic in which sheets of cardboard are overlaid with several inches of mulch on top of the vegetation, starving the plants for light and causing them to compost in place. Compost may be added as a layer between the cardboard and the mulch to add extra nutrients. Permaculturists often employ sheet mulching in conjunction with swales to enhance the area prior to planting.

When you’re ready to plant, simply brush aside the mulch and cut holes in the cardboard just big enough to dig a planting hole at the location of each plant. Then slide the mulch back around the newly installed plant. Maintaining a deep mulch is the key to preventing w**ds, conserving soil moisture and boosting organic matter—all things that will help your food forest be self-maintaining and self-sufficient
Step 3: Plant
The next step is to arrange your plants in the landscape. Position the tallest species (i.e. the ‘canopy’ plants) at the northern end of the planting area, with progressively smaller plants toward the southern end. This way the taller plants will cast less shade on the smaller ones, especially at the beginning and end of the growing season when the days are shorter and the sun hangs lower in the sky.

Of course, truly shade tolerant plants may be interspersed throughout the understory of the forest garden. You might even consider cultivating mushrooms in the shadiest zones once the large trees have matured. Edible vines may be planted on any accessible fences, arbors, or walls, and you can also train vines up trees, just like Mother Nature does—just be sure the tree is significantly larger than the vine to avoid the tree getting smothered.

The edges of the food forest are suitable for sun-loving annual vegetables, if you wish to include them. Also, keep in mind that it takes decades for large tree to reach their mature size, so in the early years of a food forest there is ample sunlight. Plant sun-loving species in the open spaces between trees and then replace them with more shade-tolerant plants as the forest matures. Good info by Modern Farmer

Good Healthy HEIRLOOM SEEDS will make all the difference when you want to get a good start on your FOOD FOREST. At THE SEED GUY, we have a great Heirloom Seed package that has 60 Heirloom Seed Varieties, 35,000 total Seeds, all Non GMO and Sale Priced now at $59

You get 49 Veggie varieties, and then an 11 Variety Herb Seed Pkg as a Bonus. You would definitely be able to Feed Your Family with this Seed package, and you can store the Seeds you don't use right away in the 10 x 14 silver mylar bag we provide. All Heirloom Seeds are Small Farm-Grown, we hand count and package to make sure you get no cracked or broken seeds, and they are fresh from the 2018 harvest.

You can see Seed varieties and Order this Seed package on our website at

You can call us 7 days a week, and up to 10:00 pm each night, to ask questions or to place an Order at 918-352-8800, and I Promise you will always be able to talk to a Live Person.

Click LIKE at the top of our page, and you will be able to see more of our great Gardening Articles, New Seed Offerings, and Healthy Juice Recipes. Thank you and God Bless You and Your Family. :)

Huge list of container plant that will work great in your garden or porch

Huge list of container plant that will work great in your garden or porch


There are many Families growing in containers due to less growing space needed, and the ease of moving the containers around their yard or patio. You can also grow vegetables and herbs indoors in containers in the Winter, enjoying greens for your salads, and then move them outdoors in the Spring.

There are several types of containers that can be used for growing vegetables including polyethylene plastic bags, clay pots, plastic pots, metallic pots, milk jugs, ice cream containers, bushel baskets, barrels, and planter boxes. It is important to use containers that can accommodate roots of the vegetables you want to grow as the vegetables vary in sizes and rooting depths. The container needs to have good drainage, and should not contain chemicals that are toxic to plants and human beings.

Most vegetables grown in backyard gardens can be grown in containers, although a container's diameter and depth needs to be considered when selecting what vegetables to grow. The plant density (number of vegetable plants per container) depends on individual plant space requirements, and rooting depth.

It's best to use one of the potting mixes in vegetable container gardening as they are light, disease-free, w**d seed-free, and have good drainage. Some potting mixes have pre-mixed plant nutrients, so read the information on the label about how long the pre-mix will feed your plants before you start applying fertilizers. You can also make your own two bushels of potting mix using the following recipe: Shredded sphagnum peat moss (1 bushel), Vermiculite (1 bushel), Ground limestone (1¼ cups), Phosphate fertilizer either 0-20-0 (½ cup) or 0-45-0 (¼ cup), Slow release granular fertilizer such as 5-10-5 (1 cup).

Container-grown plants require more frequent fertilization than field-grown plants because of the limited space within the container for drawing nutrients. Fertilizers can be mixed with the soil mix before filling the container and can also be applied as a nutrient solution. Nutrient solutions can be made by dissolving soluble fertilizer such as 10-20-10, 12-24-12 or 8-16-8 in water following label directions. The nutrient solution is applied once a day when the plants are watered. How often you water may vary with vegetables, but once a day is adequate.

Leach the unused fertilizer nutrients from the potting mix once a week by applying tap water only. It is also very important to water occasionally with a nutrient solution containing micronutrients such as copper, zinc, boron, manganese, and iron and follow label directions in order to give plants the right amounts.

Plants grown in containers need frequent watering as the containers dry fast. Watering on a daily basis is necessary to provide adequate moisture for plant growth. Apply enough water to reach the bottom of the container. Allow the excess to drain out through drainage holes. Avoid wetting the leaves when watering as this will encourage development of foliar disease.

Try not to allow the containers to dry out completely between watering as this will lead to flower and fruit drop. Do not over water the plants as the container will be waterlogged and the roots will lack oxygen leading to poor growth and eventually, perhaps, the plant's death.

The size of the containers needed will depend alot on the vegetable or herbs you are planting. Most Herbs can be planted in 1/2 - 1 gallon containers. Cabbages, Cucumbers, Green Beans, Leaf Lettuce, Spinach, Swiss Chard, and Cherry Tomatoes can be planted in 1 gallon containers. Beets, Carrots, Eggplants, Peppers and Radishes need 2 gallon containers. Your regular tomatoes will need 3 gallon containers. (great info from the University of Illinois Extension)

When you need some great Non GMO Heirloom Seeds for your containers, you should look over our 60 Variety Heirloom Seed Special--You get 11 Heirloom Herb Seed varieties as a Bonus when you purchase our 60 Variety Heirloom Seed Pkg Special.

Our 60 Variety Heirloom Seed package contains 35,000 Heirloom Seeds, all Non GMO, Hand Counted and Packaged, and all varieties are individually packaged and then put in a 10 x 14 silver mylar bag. All Heirloom Seeds are Small Farm Grown, Fresh from the 2018 harvest, and Priced Now at $59

You can go to our website to see Seed varieties listed and to ORDER at

You can also Call Us 7 days a week, and up to 10:00 pm each night, at 918-352-8800 if you would rather Order By Phone.

If you LIKE US on our page you will be able to see more of our great Gardening articles, New Seed offerings, and healthy Juice Recipes. Thank you and God Bless You and Your Family. :)


1055 Scott Creek Rd
Niangua, MO

Opening Hours

Monday 12am - 5pm
Tuesday 12am - 5pm
Wednesday 12am - 5pm
Thursday 12am - 5pm
Friday 12am - 5pm


(417) 473-1146


Yellow onions, White onions, Asparagus, Carrots, and many more.


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Big Dreams Small Farm

We do it all, we grow food, we teach, we treat people right. If you need food and information, you have come to the right place.

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