10/16/2025
For all its challenges and pitfalls, the communal project of learning to grow and make wine in Vermont has been the most rewarding endeavor I have ever been a part of. The stunning tonnage of talent and grit consistently blows me away. Vermont wine, and New England wine generally, are still very much in a tender, nascent stage of wild (and sometimes clumsy) discovery. We are, all of us, learning by doing and, crucially, talking and sharing and hyping each other up! I have a hermetic leaning as a person but every time I choose to get out of my comfort zone and spend a little of my time supporting and learning and laughing with my fellow intrepid New England wine spelunkers has filled me with a deep sense of hope.
I took a little break yesterday to pick Frontenac Gris with up at their Vergennes vineyard. We’re enjoying an uncommonly low intensity harvest here at Chertok Wines and the lightened workload has afforded me the rare chance to go help a few other folks pick. I keep coming back to this thought that collaboration is the most important part of this whole equation, more than terroir, more than technique, more than taste and style. The specialness of New England terroir is very real and very wonderful but without the joined efforts and insights of so many fearless entrepreneurs it’s meaningless.
The grapes are amazing, the terroir compelling, the sunsets are stunning but more than anything, this story is about the people. Very glad to be in community with such a badass crew of innovators.
Special shoutout to .wines and for gifting me with my favorite memories of harvest 2025!