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Gus Clemens on Wine, 2702 Nasworthy Drive, San Angelo, TX (2026)

06/12/2026

Albert Einstein was a genius and worthy of praise and study.

His brother Frank was an absolute monster.

Wine time.

06/12/2026

Domaine Bousquet Ameri Eva Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Gualtallary Single Vineyard 2024 is a distinctive, site-specific, high-altitude Argentine wine. Oak-fermented at low temperature with no malolactic conversion. Aged eight months in barrel and six months in bottle before release. The result is a smooth, almost creamy wine that showcases sauv blanc’s versatility. $33–36

Grapes are certified organic—in line with all Domaine Bousquet efforts. They come from the Eva Estate, the highest altitude part of Gualtallary at 4,125 feet. Grapes harvested by hand in the early morning to preserve freshness. This is the first—and, so far, the only—white offering under Bousquet’s premier, single-vineyard Ameri label, which historically has been reserved for top reds.

Fermentation and aging in oak produces a sauv blanc markedly different from New Zealand and other mainstream examples, where sharpness, cutting acidity, grapefruit, and grassiness dominate. This drinks more like a premium oaked Pouilly-Fumé or a restrained, oak-framed chardonnay than a standard sauv blanc. While the oak regime smooths things out, the decision to avoid malolactic conversion allows retention of the grape’s signature food-friendly acidity. An impressively long finish presents a subtle hint of honey, a graceful echo from the oak exposure, plus a final note of acidity and minerality. Excellent effort from a producer that is a world reference point in organic wines.

The Ameri label honors Labid Al Ameri, co-owner and president of Domaine Bousquet. Ameri was born in Kuwait to Iraqi parents. The family fled Saddam Hussein. Labid spent his childhood in Spain before coming to the United States to earn a finance degree from St. Cloud State University in Minnesota, where he met Anne Bousquet, daughter of Jean Bousquet, a third-generation winemaker in the Languedoc region of France. Anne was at St. Cloud on an exchange program from the University of Toulouse, earning a master’s degree in economics.

Labid says he was not much of a drinker before college, but drank liquor to keep warm during Minnesota winters. He laughs about how Anne stood out as the only person at a Minnesota bar drinking wine. They fell in love. After graduation, they married and moved to Boston. Labid’s MBA from Northeastern University in Massachusetts led to a career in international equity markets. Anne worked as an economist forecasting the European paper packaging market. Neither imagined a future in South American wine.

Meanwhile, Anne’s father, Jean Bousquet, sold his winery in France in 1997 after a visit to Mendoza, where he fell in love with the possibilities for high altitude Argentine vineyards. He purchased land in the foothills of the Andes in the Tupungato Valley, one of the higher altitude vineyards in the world at elevation 4,000 feet. The climate is very dry. Domaine Bousquet skillfully irrigates via a drip system fed by Andean snowmelt. Gualtallary is one of Argentina’s most prestigious appellations, famous for limestone soils and extreme altitude.

As Jean developed his Argentine winery, he asked his daughter and son-in-law to help. And so they did in 2010. In 2012, Labid and Anne took full ownership, and Jean retired. The couple then built Bousquet into Argentina’s largest organic wine-exporting operation, shipping more than a million gallons a year to more than 50 countries.

Domaine Bousquet Ameri Eva Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Gualtallary Single Vineyard 2024: Pale gold color; pineapple, pear, Meyer lemon, green apple, whispers of light vanilla and honey, oak on the nose and palate. Dry; hint of tannins (likely from oak); fresh acidity. Medium body. Richer, fuller than typical sauv blanc thanks to barrel work, yet still bright. 12.5% ABV

Pairing—Grilled white fish (sea bass, halibut, snapper) with lemon-butter sauce; seared sea scallops; shrimp, crab; lobster with lemon butter; ceviche. Light chicken dishes, chicken breast with tarragon or light cream sauce. Roasted or grilled asparagus; spring salads with citrus vinaigrette; spring pea pasta. Cheese—Chèvre is classic; brie, camembert, havarti; young manchego; feta; Humboldt Fog. Avoid very blue or aggressively washed-rind cheeses that can bully this rich iteration of sauv blanc.

Domaine Bousquet website https://domainebousquet.com/en/

Photos: Domaine Bousquet winery, vineyard, with Andes Mountains in the background; Anne Bousquet, co-owner and founder; Labid Al Ameri, co-owner of Domaine Bousquet; Domaine Bousquet wine team; Domaine Bousquet winery; Domaine Bousquet barrel room; Domaine Bousquet aerial view of winery; Domaine Bousquet vineyard; Domaine Bousquet entrance

05/31/2026

A new study found people who take their coffee black are more likely to exhibit psychopathic traits.

People who order a quad shot, non-fat, vanilla soy, extra foam, light whip with caramel drizzle are more likely to be their victims. Wine time.

05/31/2026

Invention Vineyards P2, Fredericksburg, Texas 2022 is an approachable, full-throttle red blend of unlikely bottle mates—petit verdot and petite sirah. Take note, there is nothing “petite” about wines made with either of these grapes. Petit verdot usually shows up in Bordeaux blends. Petite sirah rides alongside California zinfandel. The intriguing Texas pairing delivers a tasty, surprisingly well-integrated marriage of grapes known for their deep color, firm tannins, and power. Yee-Haw, Texas! $55-60

Invention Vineyards sits on land steeped in Texas Hill Country history. The property on Highway 16 started as a grist mill built by Carl Hilmar Guenther in 1851. That evolved into Pioneer Flour Mills, a major player in the industry. Dabs and John Hollimon acquired the property and planted a vineyard in 2013. Wanting to retire, the Hollimons sold the property to the Randy Jones family, who already owned La Bon Vie Ranch, a wedding and event center. In a nod to history, the Joneses changed the name to Slate Mill Wine Collective. They also renovated the old Torre di Pietra winery on Highway 290 and opened the Slate Theory Winery in 2021. The next year, the Jones family decided to focus on Slate Theory and sold their Highway 16 property to Heath Family Wines. Whew!

And now the story turns even more decidedly to Texas “Yee-Haw!” Texas wine is a second-career pivot for Brian Heath. Although trained as an engineer, Brian proved exceptional in financial services, rising to the presidency of the U.S. Advisory Group at Ameriprise Financial. Meanwhile, his wife, Jennifer, spent 16 years at American Express Financial Advisors at C-level positions before it became Ameriprise. At such lofty heights, they saw the potential of Texas wine. And they possessed the smarts, experience, and resources to make it happen. In 2006, they purchased Grape Creek Vineyards, then essentially an Angus cattle farm on Highway 290 (the equivalent of Napa’s Hwy 29).

When you turn high achievers with “what-the-hell” resources loose in the burgeoning Texas wine world some 20 years ago, you get Heath Family Brands, and a portfolio of good wine. Grape Creek Vineyards on Hwy 290 is their flagship and a must-go destination in the Texas Hill Country AVA. Other brands include Heath Sparkling Wines (first all sparkling winery in Texas), K Estate (formerly Kuhlman Cellars), Jenblossom Cellars (uses premium Napa fruit), Heath Vineyards (focuses on vineyards on Texas High Plains and Paso Robles in California).

And Invention Vineyards—this wine. It was made at an enchanting 35-acre Texas estate and winery Heath gained in their acquisitions. After the purchase, Heath Family expanded from 2,000 cases a year at Grape Creek to more than 63,000. The winery now has a 25,000-square-foot production facility with more than 50 stainless-steel tanks and a 2,000-barrel cellar. The winery not only conjured up this monster, but also produces Heath’s sparkling. Sort of the alpha-omega of winemaking. Yee-Haw, Texas!

This Invention Vineyards P2 2022 effort occurred during the Heath acquisition of Slate Theory, so the wine is a transitional wine of Slate Theory preliminary vineyard management and Heath Family follow-on. The majority of the fruit came from the Lahey Vineyards on the Texas High Plains. The Heath family managed this effort once the fruit arrived at the winery. Winemaker Jason Englert produced a smooth, delicious, dark fruit winner that doesn’t torment your cheeks with tannins and has admirable acidity to sidle up for food pairing. Nice work.

Invention Vineyards P2, Fredericksburg, Texas 2022: Deep ruby-garnet color; blackberry, black cherry, plum, blackcurrant, mocha, licorice, clove, nutmeg, violet, vanilla, oak on the nose and palate. Dry (0.51 g/L); chewy but not obstreperous tannins; reserved acidity (3.61 pH, 6.95 g/L TA). Full body. Plush mouthfeel. Blend of 53% petit verdot, 47% petite sirah—not a standard blend, but one that certainly works here. Ripe fruit from the Texas High Plains creates the illusion of sweetness that is not propped up by high alcohol. This comes in—for a big red blend—at a demure 13.4% ABV. Impressively long finish where the vanilla and the illusion of sweetness take center stage.

Pairing—Grilled or pepper-crusted ribeye, porterhouse, New York strip; braised short ribs, oxtail, beef bourguignon-style stews; lamb chops, slow-roasted led of lamb with rosemary and garlic; Texas-style smoked brisket, beef ribs; heartyburgers with aged cheddar or blue cheese; duck breast with blueberry or blackberry reduction. Hearty mushroom dishes, mushroom ragù over polenta, mushroom lasagna. Cheese—Aged cheddar, aged gouda, manchego, parmigiano-reggiano, grana padano; blue cheese, gorgonzola piccante, stilton-style. Avoid mild, fresh cheese, fresh mozzarella, young brie, simple goat cheeses.

Health Family Brands Invention Vineyards website https://heathfamilybrands.com/invention-vineyards/

Photos: Invention Vineyards vineyard and winery; Brian and Jennifer Heath; Invention Vineyards fermentation tanks; Invention Vineyards tasting area; Invention Vineyards patios; Invention Vineyards vineyard and winery

05/26/2026

A pessimist, an optimist, and a realist look down a train tunnel.
The pessimist sees a long dark tunnel.
The optimist sees light at the end of the tunnel.
The realist sees the light is an oncoming train.
The train conductor sees three idiots standing on the railroad tracks.
Wine time.

05/26/2026

Tenuta Cucco Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2023 is a fresh, vibrant “baby Barolo” from a Serralunga d’Alba estate that also makes classic Barolo. In this case, the winemakers work to tone down tannins during fermentation, then forgo oak contact. The result is a young, light, drinker-friendly nebbiolo that shuns the raw power and extreme ageability the grape can attain. $25-35

Tenuta Cucco is part of a family operation. It became part of Tenimenti Rossi Cairo, the holding company that oversees the agricultural activities of the family, in 2015. The family brought its organic/biodynamic philosophy from La Raia to Serralunga d’Alba to the Cru Cerrati vineyard, and the estate gained organic certification in 2018. The winery sits near an extraordinary stronghold, the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, which is reflected in its logo.

The winery and vineyards have a long history. In 1966, the Cappellano family sold Tenuta Cucco to the Stroppiana family. The Stroppiana family built the first winery; prior to that, grapes from the property were sold to other producers. The website notes: “In January 2015, the estate passed to the Rossi Cairo family, which for more than 20 years has run the organic and biodynamic farm La Raia in Novi Ligure.” The family brought the same philosophy to Comune di Serralunga d’Alba vineyards.

The nebbiolo grape name comes from the Italian “nebbia”—fog—a nod to the autumn mists in the Piedmont hills in northwestern Italy. The mist is particularly present during harvest in October and early November. The earliest documentary evidence of the wine dates to 1272, when king of England received wine gifts, but its story dates earlier than that. In the 19th century, Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, modernized his family’s estate by improving its winemaking techniques (at the same time, he was a driving force behind Italian unification). Simultaneously, Giulia Colbert de Maulévrier, Marchioness of Barolo, was refining her winemaking program. Together they were central figures in the creation of the first Barolos, now known as the “classic style.”

Nebbiolo is a difficult grape. Early budding, late ripening, demanding long periods of sunshine, and favored sites. It has robust tannins and balancing high acidity, which generally means Barolos are best after years, even decades, of aging when made in the classic style. This particular effort aims to muffle the tannins, allowing nebbiolo’s red fruits to shine and the wine to be enjoyed young. This winemaking technique—part of what is sometimes called the “modern style”—caused boisterous Barolo debate (the “Barolo Wars”) in the late 1970s and 1980s over shorter maceration times and the role of oak. The arguments simmered down, and today several Barolo makers, such as Tenuta Cucco, make nebbiolo wine in several styles. The Tenuta Cucco effort is notable for using stainless steel exclusively in the making. Other “modern styles” use smaller oak barrels; both aim for nebbiolo wines that are drinkable much earlier than the classic Barolo.

Tenuta Cucco Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2023: Medium garnet color; sour cherry, strawberry, raspberry, redcurrant, spice, cocoa, violets, rose petals, a dash of saline-minerality on the nose and palate.

Dry; subtle tannins thanks to fermentation in stainless steel with early separation of the juice from the skins before fermentation ends to avoid tannin extraction; bright acidity. Full malolactic conversion. No contact with oak. Light-medium body. The minerality edge appears on the finish to round out the youthful experience. Works better with food than sipped solo. The estate deliberately set out to make a lighter, approachable young nebbiolo to contrast with their classic Barolo offerings. They succeed. Call this “baby Barolo.” Unlike “adult Barolos,” this is ready to drink now, made for tonight’s table rather than your heirs. 14% ABV

Pairing—Tagliatelle or pappardelle pasta with ragù (beef, pork, or mixed); lasagne with spicy sauce. Roast or braised veal, lamb chops, pork shoulder, grilled sausage; risotto with sausage or mushrooms. Pizza—this is a weekday, younger brother to Big Barolo. Cheese—Parmigiano-reggiano, Fontina d’Aosta, taleggio; Castelmagno (a blue-veined Piedmontese cheese—what grows together goes together).

Tenuta Cucco website https://tenutacucco.it/

Photos: Tenuta Cucco; Tenuta Cucco tasting room; Tenuta Cucco country, vineyards; Tenuta Cucco owner-winemaker Piero Rossi Cairo; Tenuta Cucco nebbiolo grapes; Tenuta Cucco Serralunga d’Alba vineyard

05/18/2026

Someone ripped the 5th month out of my calendar.

I am dismayed.

Wine time.

05/18/2026

Varvaglione Cosimo Varvaglione Collezione Privata Old Vines Negroamaro del Salento IGP 2021 is a complex, layered wine made with the negroamaro grape, a key black-skinned grape in Salento, the sun-washed peninsula in the heel of Italy’s boot. This is a stellar example of what can be done with the grape. Easy drinker over-delivers. $28-30

The wine’s “IGP” designation is part of Italy’s rococo classification system. It essentially is the third tier, with DOCG and DOC ranking above it. Of course, it is not that simple. “IGP” is the European Union designation parallel to Italy’s IGT; producers can choose which acronym to adopt. With its large export business, Varvaglione elects to use the EU designation. It is supposed to represent a step above “table wine”—the lowest designation—but in practice it is the catch-all for grapes and blends that do not meet strict DOCG and DOC regulations. There are many very fine IGP/IGT wines, including Super Tuscans and this effort.

Negroamaro grapes are native to Puglia, especially to the Salento peninsula. The name loosely translates as “black and bitter.” It has been grown in southern Italy for at least 1,500 years. DNA shows a relationship with verdicchio and sangiovese, putting it firmly as part of Italy’s native-grape patrimony. Vines are vigorous with the potential of very high yields, so pruning and yield control are crucial to quality. While it can stand alone as a varietal, as it does here, it also often is blended with malvasia nera, primitivo, sangiovese, or montepulciano.

Varvaglione is one of the oldest wineries in southern Italy. Cosimo Varvaglione founded the winery in Pulsano in 1921. Initially, the winery focused on bulk wine sold to others, with the Italian navy in Taranto among the first clients. Cosimo’s son, Angelo, built the first permanent cellar in 1958 in Leporano. It is still used as a sale point today.

The enterprise shifted from bulk sales to bottling in the early 2000s. The winery is now owned and managed by the third and fourth generations, led by Angelo Varvaglione and his wife Maria Teresa and their children Marzia, Angelo, and Francesca. The largest family-owned cellar in Puglia, the company produces some five million bottles a year and exports to more than 70 countries. Grapes come from 370 acres of estate vines and some 1,000 acres of affiliated growers who have worked with the Varvaglione family for more than 30 years.

Puglia is a long, mostly low-lying peninsula in southern Italy with a coastline on the Adriatic Sea to the east and the Ionian Sea to the south. Bari is the regional capital. The Varvaglione operation is located in the warmer Salento peninsula, a powerhouse producer of ripe reds and rosato (rosé) wines. The region encompasses some 230,000 acres under vine and accounts for roughly 10 percent of Italian wine production.

Varvaglione Cosimo Varvaglione Collezione Privata Old Vines Negroamaro del Salento IGP 2021: Deep ruby color; dark cherry, blackberry, black plum, black pepper, chocolate, toasted oak, cinnamon, licorice, balsamic on the nose and palate.

Dry; velvety tannins; moderate acidity. Full body, smooth, excellent mouthfeel. Made with negroamaro grapes from old vines. Fermentation and maceration occur in temperature-controlled stainless steel, followed by malolactic conversion, then aging for six months in French and American oak. Yields held back to increase quality. The temperature-controlled fermentation preserves the fruit quality, while maceration builds color and structure. Together, the cellar work tames negroamaro’s rustic edges. A signature balsamic presence persists on an admirably long finish. 15% ABV

Pairing: Grilled, roasted steaks, barbecue, roasted lamb with rosemary; braised beef, osso buco, beef short ribs, pot roast in red wine sauce. Traditional Puglian fare—braciole (meat rolls simmered in tomato sauce), tiella (rice, potato and mussel casserole), orecchiette pasta with broccoli rabe. Rich pasta dishes with hearty meat-based gravies. Grilled, roasted eggplant, mushrooms, lentil-based dishes. Cheese: Aged hard cheeses, parmigiano-reggiano, aged pecorino, aged provolone; gorgonzola, roquefort, stilton; soft, creamy for contrast, taleggio, robiola, brie, camembert.

Varvaglione website https://varvaglione.com/en/

Photos: Varvaglione family; Varvaglione winery and vineyard; Varvaglione winery; Angelo Varvaglione; Varvaglione vineyard; Varvaglione winery; Varvaglione barrel aging; Varvaglione vineyard

05/11/2026

What do you call 52 slices of bread? A deck of carbs. Wine time.

05/11/2026

K Estate Estate Tempranillo, Texas Hill Country 2023 is a built-to-please, food-friendly expression of Texas tempranillo, the red grape that has a particularly affinity to Texas terroir. Very accommodating, easy drinker with just enough red-fruit character to be interesting. $51-60

Grapes hand-harvested at 24.2º Brix. Destemmed. Fermented in stainless steel using commercial yeast. Aged 12 months in barrel, none new, 50% French, 50% American. The 2023 vintage presented issues and opportunities. Generous spring rains, but June brought heat, no rain, and a brief but harsh hailstorm that forced cluster removals. The opportunity was reduced yield but improved quality with deep color extraction and big fruit flavors.

K Estate began as Kuhlman Cellars/Kuhlman Estate on the Texas wine road, Highway 290. It is now part of the Heath Family Brands portfolio and rebranded as K Estate. Lifelong wine lovers Chris and Jennifer Cobb created Kuhlman Cellars in 2013 and opened to the public the next year. The name comes from Kuhlman Creek, which originates on the Cobb family farm and feeds into the Pedernales River.

Heath Family Brands acquired Kuhlman Cellars in mid-2024. Kuhlman Cellars harvested and produced this wine, however the bottling, labeling, and release was done by Heath Family Brands under the new K Estate brand.

Brian and Jennifer Heath acquired Grape Creek Vineyards in 2006 and have aggressively expanded ever since on Highway 290. Heath Family Brands now produce more than 150,000 gallons of wine each year on 68 acres of estate vineyards. The Heaths in particular have upgraded or built new facilities under its brands, which now include Grape Creek Vineyards, Heath Sparkling Wines, K Estate Vineyards, and Invention Vineyards.

K Estate Estate Tempranillo, Texas Hill Country 2023: Medium ruby color; cherry, strawberry, dried fig, to***co, cedar, leather, pinch of saline on the nose and palate.

Dry (0.52 g/L RS); silky tannins with some lingering dust; food–friendly acidity (3.65 pH, 7.2 g/L TA); nice pairing with food-congenial 12.5% ABV. If you are into food–wine pairing, you do not want 15% ABV. Medium body. Distinctive tempranillo flavors and the laid-back affability that is a distinguishing characteristic of many Texas tempranillo plays. Made with 100% estate–grown tempranillo that showcases Pedernales River—Texas Hill Country terroir.

Pairing—Grilled beef, ribeye, flat iron, fajitas with char on the meat paired with onions and peppers. Pork, grilled pork chops, carnitas, chorizo tacos; dry-rubbed Texas barbecue ribs; pork loin with paprika and garlic. Lamb, herb-rubbed leg of lamb, chops with rosemary, thyme, or smoked paprika. Texas comfort food, chili con carne, brisket burnt ends, smoked sausage, burger with cheddar or manchego and sautéed mushrooms. Can work with roasted chicken with herbs, grilled turkey sausage, mushroom risotto with parmesan. Cheese—Firm nutty cheeses, manchedo (young to one-year), idiazabal, aged cheddar (especially clothbound and sharp styles), gouda, asiago, pecorino. Avoid very spicy dishes, sweet glazes and sauces, very delicate dishes (poached fish, simple salads). Super–funky, intense blue cheeses likely will upstage this wine. Far happier with firm, nutty, moderately assertive styles.

K Estate website https://heathfamilybrands.com/k-estate/

Photos: Kuhlman Estate vineyard and winery (courtesy of K Estate Vineyards); Brian and Jennifer Heath; Kuhlman Estate vineyard and patio (courtesy of K Estate Vineyards); Kuhlman Estate indoor tasting (courtesy of K Estate Vineyards); Kuhlman Estate outdoor tasting (courtesy of K Estate Vineyards); Kuhlman Estate entrance (courtesy of K Estate Vineyards)

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