05/22/2025
IN PRINT | SF CHRONICLE
âWhen Courtney Humiston set out to create a sparkling wine label, she didnât quite know how to describe her vision. Unlike many California wine producers, she was not trying to emulate the rich, long-aged style of Champagne. But she was certainly not making a fizzy, lighthearted pet-nat either.
What Humiston had in mind was a wine that was bright and fruity but still had the precise bubbles of the Champagne method. Then she realized that there was a French model for the style she hoped to produce: crĂ©mant, French wines that are made in the Champagne method but not in the Champagne region. âCalifornia crĂ©mantâ is how she now refers to her project, Delphinium Wine Co., named for an endangered species of larkspur flower native to Sonoma and Marin counties.
CrĂ©mant wines incorporate the signature grapes of their places of origin: Instead of defaulting to Champagneâs typical roster of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, a CrĂ©mant de Loire might be made from Loire Valley standbysâŠ
The category encompasses a range of styles, but broadly speaking, crĂ©mant tends to taste less toasty and complex than Champagne, largely due to the fact that it spends less time aging on its lees â the dead yeast cells that, over time, impart those nutty, brioche-like notes that Champagne has become known for. Whereas Champagne must by law age on its lees for at least a year â and vintage Champagnes for at least three years â the minimum aging time for crĂ©mant is nine months.
âI wanted methode Champenoise, disgorged, but more following the laws of CrĂ©mant de Loire,â Humiston said. âShorter time on lees, more freshness.â
Despite the fact that it is bone-dry â thereâs no dosage, a sugary solution added to most Champagne-method wines â the 2023 Delphinium ($45, 12.8%) has a sweetly fruity side to it, reminiscent of candied grapefruit. Itâs crisp, with bubbles that taste creamier and softer than what youâd expect from Champagne. I canât say Iâve ever had the pleasure of inhaling a delphinium flower, but the wine does smell resoundingly floralâŠâ
Thank you Esther Mobley / SF Chronicle for this gorgeous write-up on todayâs paper, excerpt above. Full article â