09/30/2026
What happens when you allow chickens to forage for their own natural selection? I put Cou' Nu, Bresse, & Delaware to the ultimate pasture raised test & the 'winner' isn't what you'd expect.
Now before we get started let me remind you that anyone can fatten a chicken (cow, pig,or human) fast on "fast food" or grain. These birds were raised on pasture, free range, no feed other than supplements from our homestead in the form of sprouted fodder in Winter & seasonal alternative fodders like BSF larvae, garden scraps, "junk buckets, duckweed etc.
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We've all heard the term "Fat on Grass" when it comes to ruminants but finding a heritage breed bird that can forage like a beast & gain without outside inputs as chickens used to do before being domesticated, is another huge conundrum. It definitely starts with proper feather to forest ratios but some birds still outdo others even when given the proper space.
I have raised Bresse since 2013 & this was my final processing of them. You'll see why.
We were excited about the Cou'Nu, a French Naked Neck we had sourced after researching & seeing Joyce Farms sell at large scale as a heritage alternative to the unsustainable Cornish Cross. I have a few revelations, good & not so good about this breed but it was a fun project.
Delaware, I have been working with for quite a few years focusing on size & winter laying abilities. As boring & affordable as this choice was, it's been the best one although, as you'll see, not the heaviest rooster in this example.
Our end goal is slow food with maximum nutrient density but in our addiction to bigger is better, faster & more convenience culture everyone is brainwashed from Big Ag Feed peddlers to ask about "grow out times", "feed conversion" & carcass size rather than macronutrients or good to bad fat ratios. You can't rush nourishment, nature knows this but sadly, many humans do not. So while a store shelf wants the biggest most bland carcass available for you with the absolute lowest & fastest overhead, our goal is the healthiest poultry, UNavailable on any shelf at all.
So here are my first three "samples". All raised for an entire trip around the calendar & harvested at the same age. We always harvest ALL birds in the Fall with new layers already hatching to take their place.
Without Mr B knowing what I was up to, I asked him to choose 3 roosters, one from each breed (3 go in our plucker at a time so he didn't question my motives or know what I was documenting).
I expected Delaware to be the clear winner but it was actually the Cou' Nu. I knew the Bresse didn't have a chance. They don't forage nearly as aggressively as the first two. I've had the best stock & the worst stock when it comes to Bresse since I've raised this bird the longest & although I can recommend some other amazing French breeds, the popularity of the Bresse has been the demise of its quality genetics & it's been sad to watch. They've never had a carcass that I was ever impressed with & newsflash, they taste like chicken, not some magical wagyu type unicorn bird as advertised by all who raise them. Great table bird, not a large table bird at all. Any heritage breed is going to be a "level up" experience from a CX in flavor.
We were excited to finally source the quality Cou'Nu & it took me a while to research so I was excited. They grew fast but they struggled a bit in winter & although this rooster won the weight test, you can see the problem. The skin areas that are exposed to the elements are red & TOUGH. I don't think this bird could be a rational option for that reason alone.
The Delaware looks like a nice carcass for a heritage bird & the skin was still easy to harvest. I shared a picture of the breakdown that I do for a standard bird to suit my family needs. They don't have supersized (and bland AF) breasts as a CX but nothing to be embarrassed about either. I call these birds "Thunder Thighs" too because the thigh is my favorite part & there is plenty of it on these birds.
So although you can throw a bowl of feed in front of most birds & end up with something, either 9 pounds of dry flavorless CX meat with failing organs & bones or an Easter Egger that will barely give you chicken soup but taste amazing, finding the magical balance is a dance where somewhere in the middle you can find a happy place that provides the best of both worlds without the excessive inputs big ag wants you dependent on.
What would you do if Tyson no longer allowed you the purchase of CX or if the feed stores were suddenly empty?
Tomorrow, I'll show you the results of the hens, & we have a new winner so it's not always as it seems.
Choose a breed you can hatch sustainably. Select seasonally for size & abilities (forage laying etc) feed a seasonal, species appropriate diet, & be patient. Slow food is nourishment, fast food is, well...
Fast Food. Some just cost more than others.