Shrewd Food

Shrewd Food Smart takes on food, coffee & service Shrewd Food's aim is to put the spotlight on the world of food and coffee.

It will include restaurant and coffee shop reviews, recipe book reviews, food trends, food and travel, kitchen gadgets and even the philosophy of food.

I’m seldom surprised by breakfast options. Inevitably it's the usual variations on bacon and eggs, omelettes, flapjacks,...
10/10/2026

I’m seldom surprised by breakfast options. Inevitably it's the usual variations on bacon and eggs, omelettes, flapjacks, Eggs Benedict, French toast, shakshuka, croissants, etc. You get it. But Doppio Zero, the newly opened franchised restaurant at the Cotswold Centre in Hillcrest offered one unusual option, along with all the above: Under Healthy Choices they had Eggs & Greens; poached eggs, roasted sweet potato, grilled halloumi, broccoli, baby marrow, cherry tomatoes, baby spinach and artichokes served with pesto hollandaise, R135. Not only did it taste pretty good, but I was left feeling I had met all my daily nutritional needs in one meal.
My fellow brunchers opted for an almond croissant (nicely crispy) and a classic eggs Benedict on an English muffin with poached eggs, hollandaise sauce, cherry tomatoes and bacon, R118. He seemed happy enough - although as a man of few words, it was like reading between the mouthfuls.
Re-reading the menu, I noticed another unusual offering - if you can take oxtail for breakfast - Oxtail & Eggs on an English muffin with poached eggs, tomato chili jam, pulled oxtail & short-rib, wild rocket, hollandaise and Parmesan, R118.
I’ve never eaten at a Doppio Zero before. There are now over 30 restaurants countrywide with the new one at Cotswold, another one in Florida Road (halaal) and one in Umhlanga. All are managed under the Spur Corporation. They categorise their food as “Mediterranean and Italian dishes, although individual locations may feature slight variations based on local availability, seasonal specials, or bakery offerings.”
As it happened, I returned to the Cotswold operation in the same week to have dinner with a friend and a grandkid, 10, who appears to only eat ten food items; sweets, chocolate, ice-cream, sweets, rice crispies, chips, beef lasagne (only from Woolies), chicken nuggets and strips.
Fortunately Doppio has the strips on their kiddies menu. Otherwise it’s salads, burgers, Fresh Plates with the likes of fishcakes, chicken thighs and hake with sides of your choice (smaller meal options, I guess) plus pizzas, pastas, sharing platters, a vegan pantry, grills, and main meals like salmon teriyaki, beef fillet and prawns and roasted pork belly.
Then there are small plates, like tapas, with around 11 options. So there are a lot of choices.
This is a sort of menu trying to be all things to all people and I’m assuming it works as the restaurant was pretty full the night we were there.
My friend opted for something from the Fresh Plate section; grilled chicken breast with a chunky avo salad with tomatoes, corn, cucumber, radish, and pine nuts, R115. A larger breast portion would cost R155. I like this option of being able to order in sizes. Good idea for small eaters.
The salad was good and the chicken agreeable. Frankly, though, anyone who orders grilled chicken breast is also into self flagellation.
I ordered a sharing platter for two because I liked the sound of it. Of course I didn't finish it. It includes fire-cracker cauliflower, falafel, marinated artichokes, olives, roasted red pepper, halloumi, fire-grilled flatbread, marinated aubergine, hummus and tzatziki, R350.
As a whole I enjoyed it. The cauliflower was great, seared in a spicy sauce and still crispy. Very nice. I enjoyed the grilled halloumi and the other veggies and dips. But the falafel was dry and crumbly. All in all, no regrets and the leftovers fed me for days.
Doppio Zero offers many features that make it appealing to most palates and needs. Baked goods look appealing and service was friendly and efficient. Spacious seating both indoors and outdoors.
** Call 076 510 8823

What was once Holden’s Spar at 279 Florida Road has metamorphosed into what could best be described as a food court. It ...
03/10/2026

What was once Holden’s Spar at 279 Florida Road has metamorphosed into what could best be described as a food court. It is fronted by a very spacious coffee shop called Next Coffee, which originates from Pietermaritzburg along with Nextaly, which serves woodfired pizzas and pastas. Then follows three take-away counters: Noosh which offers shawarmas and wraps; Grind, a smashburger joint; and Rollout which specialises in bunny chows. And then at the back there's the Food Garden, another very spacious space, which is where we ended up lunching. It’s an Indian/ Indo Chinese restaurant.
The whole property is large enough to include a courtyard with a kids' playing area, and a dessert shop called Crepe It Up, which was closed, and two prayer rooms. All the food is halaal.
The decor throughout the food court has a fresh, airy feel and is pleasant. But, if I were to be honest, it feels like it was AI designed, more about efficiency than heart. Just my opinion,
The idea was that Frank Chemaly and I (with a pop-in by my brother) would try and taste from the several options available. But we soon realised that was not practical.
So we started at Next Coffee, which has earned a good reputation for coffee excellence at their Pietermaritzburg outlet. Alas, our cappuccinos were too milky and my croissant, R25, served with cheese, R21, had seemingly lost the will to live being decidedly limp. My brother enjoyed a pleasant smashed avo on toast, which was served, a tad oddly, with both feta and cheddar cheese, R76.
Happily Frank enjoyed his slice of St Sebastian cheesecake, R79.
We drifted past the three take-aways, ending up at the Food Garden at the back and overlooking the courtyard. As I said, very spacious, but almost entirely empty apart from one other table. I don’t know if our waitress felt defeated by the lack of patrons but she wore socks with slipslops and shuffled back and forth noisily and in a depressing, desultory manner. Frank was so offended I couldn't stop laughing. Every time she shuffled towards us, Frank’s eyes would narrow and I would start laughing again. To be honest it was the highlight of my visit.
The menu is comprehensive: Curries, bunny chows and biryani, steaks, lamb chops, fish and prawns. Even crayfish, either grilled or as a curry. Then there’s a range of tikka, boti and kebabs, a selection of mixed grills, burgers and pastas. Also chow meins and chop suey.
We decided to share a few meals: Quarter chicken tikka (leg portion) with roti, chips and salad, R75, a prawn karahi, R150, with butter naan, R20, and a Manchurian beef sizzler, R150, with a bowl of plain rice, R35.
The chicken tikka was a lesson on how not to prepare this classic Indian dish, with the chicken being tough and stringy and the sauce more like something from a BBQ bottle. The chips were terrible and the salad fine. We didn’t bother with the roti. I had a bad feeling about the beef sizzler and warned Frank, but he was not to be deterred. It was inedible. And unappealing served on tin foil.
And then total disaster was averted by the prawn karahi served with butter naan. According to AI, Prawn Karahi is a fast-cooking South Asian curry made with prawns simmered in a thick, tomato-based gravy inside a traditional wok-like pan called a karahi and flavoured with tomatoes, garlic, ginger and spices. It was truly delicious and deepfully flavoured. The buttered naan allowed us to mop up every drop of this sublime sauce.
So, a happy ending. And generally nice vibe.
*Food Garden, 279 Florida Road, Morningside Call: 061 087 7142

Thank you S0I 55 for restoring my faith in the essential-to-life importance of flavour. S0I 55 is a restaurant that fuse...
30/09/2026

Thank you S0I 55 for restoring my faith in the essential-to-life importance of flavour. S0I 55 is a restaurant that fuses traditional Thai street food with contemporary flavours. You'll find it at the Market, a food court in the Ballito Lifestyle Centre.
I know this might sound crazy but I'm going to say it. At first I thought my tastebuds were going - age and all that - because eating out has become dull. Or food has become dull. Bland. No experimenting with flavours or attempts to excite with innovative taste combos. No saucy sauces. Food so predictable you could fall asleep while reading the menu. I could go on, but you get the picture. Are restaurants dumbing down on flavours I asked friends? I mean how weird. And why? Isn't eating out meant to be more pleasurable than eating in?
As it happens they agreed with me, as did my brother who said he was becoming bored with eating out.
Of course there are still restaurateurs who want to excite tastebuds, not bore them to death. SOI 55 is one. Presided over by owner/chef Goo Imthawin, the restaurant serves food so packed with flavour your tastebuds would tap dance if they could.
They serve a range of Asian food; spring rolls, potstickers, prawn skewers, duck pancakes (a favourite of mine) dim sum, Asian sticky ribs with pork or lamb, and soup (Tom Yum). Also items from the Hibachi Grill which include skewers, grilled calamari, grilled fish (meat)ball skewers and chicken satay.
And there are the Thai curries (green, red, massaman and angry). Also wok dishes, pad Thai, drunken noodles and sweet and sour dishes. How does this sound? Fresh oysters topped with red pepper nam jim and crispy onion. Or a Som Tam Salad, a green papaya salad with peanuts, cherry tomatoes, green beans, chill, garlic and lime. Yum, yum.
I was there on a recent Sunday with friends Nickie and Max and my brother. We started by sharing steamed fried potstickers served with a ponzu sauce, which were filled with a delicious chicken filling. The potstickers had a crispy base which added an appealing texture. R193 for four. Sooo delicious.
This I followed with a "small bite"; Goo goo squid, wok-fried with sriracha sauce, lime juice, coriander, peppers and sesame seeds, R135. More utter deliciousness with the squid unbelievably tender. As a side I opted for their famous crispy spinach salad, R155, served with toasted, desiccated coconut, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, red onion, coriander and mint dressed with chilli jam and nam jim.
My brother opted for fluffy seamed buns filled with panko chicken, Asian slaw, fermented veg, ponzu sauce and sriracha mayo, R125. He had a slight issue with the buns having become soggy by the time they hit the table, but enjoyed the flavours.
Max ordered a dish he rates his BEST meal this year. It was the chef's favourite, Chu Chee with crispy stir fried chicken in a red curry and spicy peanut satay sauce, served with noodles, R190. I tasted it and was blown away.
Nicki also ordered a chu chee chicken dish with a similar sauce, sans the peanuts, which was more spicy and hotter. R165. Perfect flavours.
NB. Note there are generally different protein options for the main meals as well as vegetarian.
To sum up: Amazing food, a welcoming vibe and excellent service. Goo, you are the man!
** For dessert pop into Wedgewood Nougat, just along the path, which serves the best-ever ice-cream or Dear Custard, just around the corner, where I enjoyed the most sinful strawberry custard slice . This is the stuff of culinary fantasies. Did my tastebuds tap dance. Of course.
** Call 032 032 0019

The iconic South Beach eatery, Surf Riders Cafe, closes its doors tomorrow. For the final time. The cafe's owner Jason C...
29/09/2026

The iconic South Beach eatery, Surf Riders Cafe, closes its doors tomorrow. For the final time. The cafe's owner Jason Caradas has spent around a year fighting eviction, but the deathknell came with a final noice from the eThekwini Municipality to vacate by September 30.
While this has no impact on Surf Riders' two branches in Umhlanga, it's a huge loss to Durban's beachfront which has very little to recommend it, food wise. Or any wise come to think of it. I'm completely at a loss to understand this move on the part of the municipality, which seems intent on reducing facilities and attractions for beachgoers, not increasing them. I dunno any more.
Comments in a story published today by The Berea Mail sum it up well: Now just another empty property.
Sur Riders South Beach became a legend in its own time by offering not only great food, but a welcoming vibe and a close-up sea view - if you look between the sand dunes that is.
Surf Riders boasted so many regulars that customers quickly felt they were part of the Great Surf Riders family. And they were.
Farewell to another much loved institution.

The Harvest Market opened in Lillies Quarters in Hillcrest around December last year. So not new. I only recently discov...
26/09/2026

The Harvest Market opened in Lillies Quarters in Hillcrest around December last year. So not new. I only recently discovered it as it's easy to miss if you tend to only hang around Woolies like me.
It's basically a shop dedicated to all things healthy that includes a food element. It offers one of the most comprehensive ranges of collagen-based products I've ever seen. They also stock other health products, which include three excellent vitamin brands - I know because I only buy them. They are hard to find so this is a win for me. There are also face, body and hair care products, household cleaning products and more.
Food wise they offer pasture-raised meats, local produce like farm-fresh fruits and vegetables, juices, jersey cow milk (and goat's milk if I remember correctly), yoghurts, a small range of readymade frozen meals, and tinned foods. Also condiments, olive and other oils, snacks. etc. So much in fact it's best you check it out for yourself.
The fresh produce section is not extensive, but I think the supply of fresh produce is seasonal and depends on what's available.
A coffee bar serves collagen-infused hot drinks, honey turmeric lattes, along with traditional cappuccinos - so relax Myrtle.
During my several visits there - I love this place - I bought a dozen of the most amazingly large eggs, a frozen container of delicious tomato soup, some gluten-free snacks for my grandson, some collagen of course, and items from a Cape Town based skin care range called LeLive. Not only was everything so reasonably priced, but the products are very kind to my super sensitive skin.
The focus is on everything being high-end, organic, preservative-free, natural, nothing tested on bunnies/monkeys, blah, blah. You get the picture.
The parent company of Harvest Market is the Harvest Table, a family owned and run business, which is KZN based. There are other branches of Harvet Market in Salt Rock and Paarl.
I love this place, as I said, and every time I return I see something new. The shopping area is appealingly and practically laid-out, making browsing a blissful experience. Very friendly staffers.
** Find it at Shop B4, Lillies Quarter Lifestyle Market, 12 Old Main Road, Hillcrest. Call 031 701 1200

The Glenwood Bakery, an institution in Glenwood since 2013, lives on to survive and thrive another day. But for a momen...
25/09/2026

The Glenwood Bakery, an institution in Glenwood since 2013, lives on to survive and thrive another day. But for a moment this survival was in question when owner Adam Robinson decided to sell it, but keep the Florida Road branch. After some anxious months when no one stepped forward brandishing wads of cash, Adam finally announced there are buyers - not a franchise thankfully - who aim to continue its unique spirit and ethos. Adam wrote on Facebook.
" The cafe part of The Glenwood Bakery, in Glenwood has been bought by John White and Justin Lagesse. It has therefore been rescued from imminent extinction! And everyone who works for the cafe keeps their job. We are thrilled."
Adam agreed to section it off from the rest of The Glenwood Bakery brand and sell it to two of the "most wonderful people".
So it did not close as planned this past Monday and remains open.
It is to be called: The Glenwood Cafe.
A few more facts from Adam
️ *John and Justin start running the cafe on November 1
* They look forward to hosting new activities and events
* New social media pages to fire up soon.
* Adam still owns and will run the bakery and deli next door. Morningside remains as per normal. So, the same pastries will be available in John and Justin's cafe as always.
After living for decades in Glenwood it's such a relief for me to know that it has not been taken over by some faceless franchise and that its spirit lives on. I've spent many, many contented hours at the bakery,, eating great food and drinking pretty good coffee with good friends. Adam created something special there and I'm glad a version of it lives on.
* Below, my favourite picture of Adam taken from the cover of his book about pastries.

FOOD TO WARM THE HEART AND PLEASE THE TASTEBUDSParmesan Crackling is exactly as it sounds; crispy, crackly cubes of deli...
06/09/2026

FOOD TO WARM THE HEART AND PLEASE THE TASTEBUDS
Parmesan Crackling is exactly as it sounds; crispy, crackly cubes of deliciousness that make the perfect snack. For me anyway, because I like crispy and I like Parmesan. They are a new product on sale at Coltempo Salami and deli at 2, 8th Avenue, off Florida Road.
I have no idea how they are produced, but I'm assured they are not deep fried. So, on the healthy side then? Well, that's what I told myself. They are the perfect snack, but also work brilliantly when sprinkled over soups or salads as they retain their crispiness. I've not come across anything like this before so a pat on the back to Coltempo for coming up with something different.
R54 per packet.
** 073 305 9057

More deliciousness at Dough Girl at 6 Delamore Road, Hillcrest. I was sad when Dough Girl closed in Morningside, but happy they opened in my neck of the woods. The first few times I visited I was frustrated by their running out of baked goods by mid morning, meaning you had to get there early - even though they stay open all day. So I stayed away. But this week I went back with a friend who once owned a bakery and wanted try it.
We got there at 10am and .......... and my total delight they were fully stocked with a wide selection of decadent treats, both sweet and savoury. Can't think of another bakery in Durban which serves such a good selection of baked goods that are so gorgeous looking and tasting they almost defy the imagination. Think, PB Marshmallow S'more Cruffin with peanut butter custard, marshmallow fluff dipped in dark chocolate all topped with chopped peanuts and house made toasted marshmallows.
So anyway we ordered a selection; lemon meringue pie, custard croissant, an apple custard Danish, pasta de natas, milk tart plus a chicken pie, which came to R330. This included two excellent cappuccinos. My friend said best pastry ever. Loved it all. I did to, although - and this is my only quibble - I thought the milk tart and lemon meringue pies were too sweet. To my tastebuds anyway.
Lovely barista and staffers all round. Warm vibe. I will return soon.
** 068 784 0175

Food and music galore at the Durban Street Food Festival taking place at the Pavilion Shopping Centre, today and tomorro...
05/09/2026

Food and music galore at the Durban Street Food Festival taking place at the Pavilion Shopping Centre, today and tomorrow. Around 60 food and drink options to savour plus 21 live music performances to rock to.
A list of the food vendors taking part is listed in the poster below.
Plus you can also watch the Springboks vs All Blacks battling it out in Johannesburg via a big screen today.
Tickets from https://www.quicket.co.za
Tickets also available at the door.

Opening times: Saturday, September 5: 11am – 11pm Sunday, September 6: 11am – 8pm (or until late)
Location: Entrance 5 – Banking Hall Parking,

A devastating fire has severely damaged the building that housed Delfi Greek Taverna in Lilian Ngoyi Road (formerly Wind...
04/09/2026

A devastating fire has severely damaged the building that housed Delfi Greek Taverna in Lilian Ngoyi Road (formerly Windermere) as well as the home of the owners on the top floor.
The restaurant was opened in 2002 by sisters Maria and Doddy Teranes - although ownership of the building goes back to the early 60s when the family ran a supermarket and cafe on the same premises.
Although tiny in size the restaurant has had a massive impact on Durban's restaurant scene both because of the excellent Greek cuisine they serve and because they have been a stayer in an environment which has seen many restaurants come and go.
Linda Landzanakis has now organised a Backabuddy campaign to help. She writes:

"To all those who love Delfi, but more importantly, those who love Doddy, Maria and Manuel..... A devastating fire on 3 September took away not only the beloved Delfi restaurant, but all their lifelong possessions. Their home of 59 years is gone, along with all the beautiful memories. What was once a landmark called EFI Supermarket, became a second landmark being Delfi. It was not only a restaurant it was a home filled with love, kindness and warmth. They were left with the clothes on their backs. Please let’s help them to rebuild - together we will ensure that we see those happy, smiling faces in no time at all! "

Click on to www.backabuddy.co.za and write Delfi in the search section and you will find out how to make donations.
Let's help our own.
** Picture below courtesy of IOL (Independent on Line)

Regarding the event Vintage, Vogue & Velocity which is taking place at Camp Orchards in Hillcrest tomorrow, please note ...
29/08/2026

Regarding the event Vintage, Vogue & Velocity which is taking place at Camp Orchards in Hillcrest tomorrow, please note that Camp Orchards is informing people that entry tickets need to be prebooked at Quicket and cannot be bought at the gate, which was originally stated as one of the options.

Event details:
Events is from 10am to 3pm.
Date: Sunday, August 30
Time: 10am - 3pm
Location: Camp Orchards, Inanda Road, Hillcrest
Admission: R150 pp, R100 for pensioners, children under 12 are free.

Tickets from quicket.co.za.

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