Shrewd Food, Durban (2026)

23/08/2026

You know how Facebook throws up these random photos meant to recall a memorable moment. I assume. I usually ignore them but this struck a chord. This was taken 14 years ago. I remember only that the event took place at a beachfront hotel. For what reason I don't recall. But I do vividly remember Antonio Carluccio of the Two Greedy Italians, who was guest of honour. He was super sweet and friendly. A real charmer. He was often regarded as the godfather of Italian gastronomy", with a culinary career of more than 50 years. He died in 2017.
Remember the show? A BBC food and travel show, it followed renowned chefs and longtime friends Antonio and Gennaro Contaldo as they return to their native Italy after living "abroad" for over 40 years. Antonio died in 2017
** Antonio is in the middle along with my son-in-law, Jono, on the right - and me - and my daughter, Roisin, on the left.

23/08/2026

Nothing like a bit of nepotism... here my brother Pierre Brouard writes about two impressive pizza eating experience.

Pizzas can be hit or miss, either they have soggy bottoms or their “crisp” bases are reminiscent of a piece of cardboard rescued from a fire. And then of course there are the purists who insist pineapple has no place on a pizza, and anything but a classic margherita is no-no.
Personally, I will eat pretty much anything on a carbohydrate, and pizzas fit the bill for me. Essentially, they are carriers for toppings, and this is where the magic can happen, or the whole affair can be a damp squib, or (in a coastal city) a limp squid.
Two recent pizza experiences gave me great pleasure. I am not a big eater – that phrase “eats like a bird” applies to me. So in both instance the pizzas were shared. This is usually a good test of your rapport with your dining companion, because finding common ground in a time, where the exclusions (no gluten, shellfish, seed oils; or olives in the case of one dining companion) can outweigh the shared dining pleasures, is rare.
The first experience was at the Morningside branch of the Glenwood Bakery (no picture sadly because I wasn’t thinking about writing about this). It was a quiet Wednesday evening and Richard and I shared their vegan pizza, R93. It was very thin and crispy (not burnt!) and the mushroom, guacamole and tomato salsa topping, with a generous forest of coriander, was truly delicious. I don’t quite know how they got it so tasty without any cheese (which often brings a satisfying mouth feel) but it had just the right balance of savoury and tangy. Because we felt so virtuous Richard and I each had our own dessert – a really generous pavlova – and this was a good decision, because it was fabulous. No banks were broken and we went home happy, and separately!

The second outing was to Umdloti, where Tasca Pizza is hidden in a rather non-descript row of holiday homes along the beachfront road. I would describe it as a “hole in the wall” because it’s a sliver of a restaurant, with tables spilling out onto the pavement. Clearly it’s a local favourite because it was pumping over lunch on a non-descript Thursday.
Asha and I had been there about a year ago and because it was my birthday treat (I’ve turned 67 – as I said to another brother, I am on the slippery slope into the burial pit) I got to choose a repeat visit, the first one proving to be a great experience. So, rather boringly, we ate the same (again shared) meal as last time, the Tree Hugger pizza, R160 for a medium, with lashing of veggies: roasted peppers, zucchini, olives, butternut, mushroom, red onion and tomatoes. The base was thin, and crisp isn’t a word that would come to mind, but the whole experience was wonderful, and definitely not boring. Each mouthful a medley of flavours and textures. We also shared a simple salad of cucumber, lettuce(s), carrots, tomato and pecorino shavings, which was a nice counterpoint to the warmly satisfying pizza. R95.
So eating on a budget is possible and you don’t have to compromise on flavour, you just have to choose the right place, and the right companion.

** Tasca Piazza, 31 N Beach Rd, Umdloti Beach,
Call: 031 568 2478

The Glenwood Bakery, 50 Florida Rd, Morningside .
Call: 076 633 2993

16/08/2026

Eating out can be expensive, but so is running a restaurant. But great deals can be found at good restaurants. Take this one. Black Rabbit in Hillcrest, which can safely be classed as fine dining, is offering an impressive lunch special from Mondays to Saturdays that costs R220 for two courses and R255 for three. Both include a glass of wine.
The special menu offers options of five starters, six mains and three desserts, all selected off the main menu. Read the attached menu and you will see it caters for most tastes.
My friend Cheryl was super impressed with the pricing of the lunch menu and opted for the pear, gorgonzola and candied pecan salad starter; kingklip poached in a copper pot with garam marsala spices, tomato chutney and jasmine rice, and vanilla ice-cream, made in house, R255.
I didn't go the lunch menu route, opting instead for a starter from the daily specials; prawns served in a creamy and spicy bisque, R178. This I followed with spinach & ricotta stuffed tortellini with brown sage butter and Parmesan, R178.
The food was exceptional. It was Cheryl's first visit and she was blown away by the pricing and the flavours.
I wasn't planning on ordering dessert, but Chris (Black) decided to share one I hadn't had - or seen - before; six freshly baked lemon madeleines served with warm custard, also made in house. So think of this combo; warm, soft sponge cakes with crisped outer layer being dunked into warm custard. It was, wow, ambrosial. I think Cheryl moaned when she took her first bite. But maybe it was me. What an innovative idea.

** Lillies Quarter, 14 Old Main Road, Hillcrest.
** 031 765 3059

16/08/2026

TAKE A TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE
Such is Karen Monk Klijnstra's charm that one day last week she managed to persuade me to leave my sick bed to join her and her friend, Avish Maharaj, on a drive around my estate in Avish's vintage Mercedes-Benz Fintale (circa 1959-1968) while she enthused about her latest project, VINTAGE, VOGUE & VELOCITY.
I was enchanted. Something totally different just when you think the entertainment world has gone dull. Or worse, dark.
And I love vintage.

The event, which is taking place in Hillcrest on August 30, offers you the chance to "embark on a magical journey into yesteryear at Camp Orchards, embracing the various eras of vintage and classic motorcycles and cars, extraordinary fashion by top fashion designers, whilst being enthralled by the tantalising sounds of the KZN philharmonic orchestra and drifting off into the sublime jazz era with the iconic BeatRoute."
And yes, food is involved. More below.

* Included in the price is access to the car and bike show.
* Access to the fashion show.
* Access to the performances of the KZNPO and BeatRoute.
* Access to the installations and activities of the Hillcrest conservancy and Snip It. And the especially curated vendors selling theme specific goods.

Main Highlights…sensational gleaming automobiles and bikes, Orchestral Centrepiece: Experience a live musical voyage from 1920 to 1980 performed by the KZN Philharmonic Orchestra, and enjoy the heady ambiance of the iconic Beateroute jazz band.
The Decades Runway: Enjoy our groundbreaking vintage car, motorcycle fashion salon styled show!! You are encouraged to dress up with exciting prizes for the best-dressed guests from any era.

Food & Drinks: Food is available for purchase via Camp Orchards, either via pre booked picnic baskets, the Deli and various other offerings but all through Camp Orchards. They have a barista onsite and a bar. Indulge in themed refreshments and local food deli delights inspired by the different generations.

Date: Sunday, August 30
Time: 10am - 3pm
Location: Camp Orchards, Inanda Road, Hillcrest
Admission: R150 pp, R100 for pensioners, children under 12 are free. Available on Quicket and at the gate on speedpoint or cash on the day

https://www.quicket.co.za/events/387495-vintage-vogue-velocity/

14/08/2026

3603 Cafe & Bistro in Gillitts has just endured several months of being part of a renovation and upgrade project of the Gillitts Shopping Centre by new owners. Customers thought 3603 had closed during the renovations but it hadn't. In fact, it suffered a significant drop in customers during the renovations. And while changes are still coming to the centre and to 3603 - a new outdoor seating area is being developed for instance - customers are finally returning and 3603 is producing the same brilliant food. Owner Brett Gentles is brilliant with flavour combinations.
I was there yesterday and took advantage of their al a carte menu to order calamari stuffed with fragrant pine nuts and raisin rice, which was served with home made roasted tomato and pepper sauce on a slice of honey caramelised pumpkin with sautéed local autumn greens, R270. It was a total taste sensation.
A friend ordered Persian hummus served with sourdough toast, and enthused, R95. This she followed with a slice of chocolate and ginger cake and raved. In fact she couldn't stop raving about the cake, how moist it was, how intense the chocolate flavour was and how the ginger was the perfect touch, blah, blah, R70. And this is not a girl who raves often.
I finished my meal with a dessert of frozen chocolate mousse served with a salted caramel sauce, pomegranates, citrus crumble, Jackson fruit segments and gooseberries, R95. An exceptionally delicious dessert
In fact the next day my brother mentioned that he had lunched at 3603 that day and ordered a dessert he would rate ten out of ten. Yes it was the frozen chocolate mousse dessert. How about that. And he's not a man that raves often about food, either.

** 1 Clifton Road, Gillitts,
** Call 068 870 6745

12/08/2026

And now for something completely different ... Mado is a newly opened Turkish restaurant in Florida Road. Frank Chemaly and friends dine. And if I learnt anything from reading this review, it's stick to the ice-creams.

The Poet, Vivek and I went to a new Turkish restaurant that has been causing something of a sensation on Durban’s Florida Road.
Nestled in the Quarters Hotel complex, Mado is a Turkish ice-cream and pastry brand that has over 300 outlets in Turkey and 22 other countries around the world. It was founded in 1850 by Yaşar Kanbur and became a chain in 1991. This is the first such opening in South Africa.
The first thing we notice is the impressive bakery counter loaded with an array of delicious looking pastries - kunefe, baklava, profiteroles, croissants and pain aux chocolats - all looking glossy and magnificent behind glass. There’s also the ice-cream counter with a veritable array of interesting and unusual flavours. The Poet spotted what she would be having for dessert - the pomegranate sorbet. It was something neither of us had tried before. But so much to choose from - chocolate, coffee, almond, pistachio, orange and even things like melon and strawberries. I would decide later.
It’s a large modern restaurant, possibly over lit, but humming with families and large groups all getting a part of the action. There’s an upstairs we never got to see. In fact on a coolish Saturday night it was so full that they could only seat us on the outside verandah and warned there may be delays in the food coming out. We were happy, and suitably dressed for the great outdoors. Plus we could see what was happening in Florida Road.
The second thing we notice is the menu. At 64 pages complete with glossy stylised pictures of many of the dishes, it’s more a small coffee table book, than a menu. It made it very difficult to get a grip on what was on offer. One kept on paging through it to find things that had jumped out at you to order only to lose your place again. In the end one almost ends up relying on the waiting staff’s recommendations.
At least a third of the menu relates to pastries and ice-creams, then there’s breakfast, and then drinks. Mado is naturally halaal, but offers an array of lemonades, shakes, smoothies, juices and teas and coffees. Vivek decided that if he couldn’t have his Scotch, water would suffice. But the Poet and I asked about a traditional Turkish apple tea. It’s something I remember from my time in Turkey some 20 years ago. Sadly they were out of it. Ditto peppermint tea.
Then I spotted something I had to try simply because of its name - a butterfly pea lemonade (R80). Our waitress couldn’t tell us why it was so named or what was even in it. It came with a thin layer of super sweet ice-blue-green cordial at the bottom topped up with an incredibly tart lemonade. Not unpleasant, just odd. The poet asked for one of their special juices, only for our waitress to say they were out of one of the ingredients. She ended up with water.
Now to master the massive menu. Large chunks of the hot food menu were not necessarily particularly Turkish even. Yes there’s a burger and a number of wraps, but no shawarma. In trying to order starters I was hoping for an interesting mezze platter of sorts, but there was nothing that even mentioned the most fundamental of West Asian dishes - hummus.
We settled on sharing a potato shish (R270) which was grossly disappointing and grossly overpriced. These were three skewers of potato stuffed miniature bread rolls that had absolutely no flavour. Thank goodness for the somewhat tomato paste heavy dipping sauce. The Poet tried one such potato option and then ended up picking on the salad garnish.
We also tried the lamb gozleme (R195) - a crisp turkish flat bread stuffed with lamb mince. This was doughy and greasy and probably needed longer in the oven. Here the Turkish yoghurt helped.
For mains the Poet had their beef wrap (R150). While I have never been a wrap fan, she enjoyed it. The beef fillet was nicely cooked with plenty of caramelised onions adding a lovely sweetness. The chips were good. I might have added a bit of chilli, rather than the sweet chilli sauce provided. Vivek went for the mixed meat stew (R195). This was a tasty tomato-based dish that came a very heavy pita bread.
My meatballs on eggplant (R195) were enjoyable if a shade overcooked. I liked the nice sweet mashed brinjal base. The so-called grilled tomato and pepper that came with it were raw. The dish cried out though for something fresh. Just a little bit of fresh tabbouleh would have lifted everything considerably. It came with another of those way-to-stolid pita breads.
But then for the ice-creams. The Poet’s pomegranate sorbet (R55) was beautiful - with a full sunripened burst of sweetness, a full punch in the mouth you would expect from such a fruit. I opted for the raspberry sorbet (R55) and relished its deliciously tart flavour. I finished with a double espresso, which was good, but expensive at R60.
We left to find not one, but four Lamborghinis blocking the outside parking.

Food: 2
Service: 2 ½
Ambience: 3
The Bill: R1 260 for three

Find at 101 Florida Road, Morningside.
Open: Sunday to Thursday 10am to 10pm, Friday 2pm to midnight, Saturday 8am to midnight.
Call: 031 944 0530

11/08/2026

What could be worse for a restaurateur opening a new restaurant than a combo of freezing weather, rain, snow (allegedly) and a power failure. That’s what happened to Nipho and Liyana Tembe on Monday, the fourth night of their dry runs for the opening of Mist at Gillitts. Locals had been talking about it for several months, wondering if Mist would ever open. I wondered too.
The interest was largely generated because the Tembe family had taken over the dilapidated and long abandoned Gilletts railway station. For them it was not simply taking over empty premises, it was about spending several months restoring it to its former glory under the strict guidelines of Amafa. You see it’s a heritage building and residents were keen to see it used again.
And it was worth it. The end result is gorgeous. Really, really impressive not only the restoration but the interior, the art, the decor features, the seating. Everything.
Anyway, back to Monday night. When the power failure hit early evening the owners realised they had to get a generator. Fast. Then they asked guests to delay their arrival. We did. Me, my brother, Frank Chemaly and friend Quintin. Many diners opted to postpone their visit so restaurant was not full at all.
No matter. The vibe was buzzing, the welcome warm and, as it turned out, our server, Emma I think, is the granddaughter of local historian Adrian Rowe who narrated the history of the station in a YouTube video for Mist. She is totally lovely. As are all the staff. All so excited to be part of Mist’s journey.
As you probably know the food is a tasting menu showcasing the flavours of South Africa, Cameroon, Senegal, Tanzania and Morocco cuisines. I posted the menu on August 8. As I predicted, the menu will evolve. In fact, already you don’t have to choose one of the set menus, but order on an al a carte basis. Like you can order a Senegal starter, a main from Morocco and a dessert from South Africa. I think that's a great idea.
The food is fine dining in every sense of the word; innovative with intense flavours, unusual ingredients, exquisitely presented on stunning crockery. But there’s nothing beyond the range of everyman’s palate.
On Monday night my brother and I ordered off the Moroccan menu, Frank the Cameroon menu and Quinton the South African.
Generally we loved the food. There were imperfections, inevitably. Frank’s fillet mignon could have been rarer, but he raved about the accompanying pepper and red wine sauce; my swordfish tagine was overwhelmed by the intensity of the Moroccan curry sauce and Frank did NOT like his banana puff puff Cameroon dessert.
But he did rave about his tempura prawn starter, served with roasted sweetcorn emulsion, tobiko roe, but seemed uncertain about his taro root velouté with Parmesan snow, beet gel, and candied taro root roe. I loved it, though. Unusual flavour and texture.
My starters were stunning; triple cheese briouats (like samosas) with pea puree, and hummus topped with pomegranate molasses and seeds. As was my tender duck with a red wine citrus jus.
Quinton raved about his South African menu; the confit Drakensberg trout, the lamb tshotlho (soft tortillas with lamb and guacamole mousse) and potato foam which transported him to another culinary planet. Apparently. He loved his Umleqwa in a creamy chicken broth and the fire-roasted veggies and steamed bread. This is proper chicken, he stated. As for his springbok rump in a red wine sauce, it was sublime.
Quinton’s couscous pudding, milk tart anglaise, amafu shisiwe and caramel sauce was the popular dessert of the night followed by our Moroccan pancake with citrus syrup and pistachio crumble.
A very enjoyable evening in a beautiful environment.
** There is a separate bar which serves unique cocktails.
** We were hosted by Nipho and Liyana Tembe.
** Only open at night - for now. Call 031 8800644.
** Find at Old Station Rd, Chelmsfordville, Gillitts

08/08/2026

07/08/2026

At last! An opening date for Mist at Gillitts Station has been announced. It will be on August 13, confirm Nipho & Liyana Tembe of the Liyana Hospitality Group.
According to their press release, diners will experience "immersive, multi-course tasting menus that carry you through the flavours of South Africa, Cameroon, Senegal, Tanzania and Morocco. Each Journey is a distinct stop along the tracks, a full sensory experience shaped by the spices, techniques and stories of its region."
Sounds good.
** Can't find any telephone number. Sigh. Although it seems Dineplan is the booking agent, but will confirm.
** As far as I can see it's open daily from 6pm.

03/08/2026

I popped into Poke Box in Gillitts for lunch today, craving dumplings. For those who don't know, Poke Box is a food truck tucked away in a corner of the Checkers centre at 9 Old Main Road, Gillitts, which specialises in Asian-style meals.
I opted to order Tom Yum Prawn, listed under soups, described as jumbo prawns and mushrooms in a piquant broth, R119.
Does it include dumplings I asked the server - not the chef - who hesitated for a moment before replying yes. As it turned out it didn't include dumplings, but the prawns were great - generously large - the veggies were perfect and the piquant broth, with a hint of heat, was delicious,
Call 078 903 0124. It apparently opens at 7am. Se full menu below

So this made me wonder how Poke Box in Glenwood (next to the Glenwood Bakery ) has fared since it moved further down the same road.
It so happened that I came across this Facebook post from Eric
Apelgren formerly Head of Department – International and Governance Relations at eThekwini Municipality, and now director and founder of The MKhongi Circle, a Durban-based consultancy. He had just visited the new premises of Poke Box at the Phansi Museum & African Art Centre in Glenwood, and called it a "gem".
"Freshly prepared Asian dishes, wonderful hot drinks and you get to eat surrounded by some of Durban’s most outstanding indigenous craft and art. Come for the Asian cuisine, stay for the culture."
Support both Poke Box and the museum. Both gems.
Thanks Eric!
** Find at 500 Esther Roberts Road, Glenwood.

Shrewd Food

23/08/2026

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