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Travis Builds It Making homes better using building science.

10/16/2026

This is NOT what we mean by BS & B**r! šŸŗšŸ¤£

We opened up a bathroom ceiling and found a little surprise left behind by one of the previous trades.

A Bud Light bottle. šŸ˜‚

Naturally, I had a few theories about the guy who left it there.

Some things you just can’t make up.

What’s the funniest thing you’ve ever found hidden in a house? šŸ‘‡

**r

10/13/2026

šŸæļø ATTIC TAILS | Episode 1: The Final Nap

You never know what you’re going to find in an attic.

While removing old insulation from a North Texas home, my crew discovered this little guy.

Let’s just say he looked a little too fresh for comfort. 😬

Apparently, this squirrel found his way into the attic but never found his way back out.

It’s a good reminder that attics can become unintended wildlife habitats when openings allow animals to get inside.

And sometimes, insulation removal turns into an episode of CSI: Attic Edition. šŸ•µļø

What’s the strangest thing you’ve ever found in an attic? Drop it in the comments!

10/13/2026

ATTIC TRANSFORMATION | PART 1 šŸ 

Sometimes making a home better starts with removing things you don’t need.

We’re kicking off a new attic transformation project in North Texas, and our first step is eliminating TWO unnecessary attic access points.

One pull-down ladder. One scuttle hole in the primary bedroom closet.

Why?

Every opening between a vented attic and the conditioned living space is another potential pathway for air leakage. And in our hot, humid climate, that matters.

This house already has a great walkout attic door with good weatherstripping. It provides access to both HVAC systems and the other attic areas.

So instead of trying to improve three separate access points, we’re eliminating two and keeping the one that makes the most sense.

We also built a small 2x4 ladder to maintain access to the upper attic when needed.

You’ll notice some decking is missing in the video. That’s temporary so we can remove the existing insulation. We’ll reinstall the decking after air sealing and before reinsulating.

Coming up in this series:

Part 2: Insulation removal

Part 3: Air sealing

Part 4: Blower door-assisted air sealing and verification

Part 5: The finished attic transformation

The goal isn’t just more insulation. It’s a better-performing building enclosure.

Follow along as we show the process, including the work you won’t see once the insulation goes back in.

10/12/2026

It’s time for the cobbler’s kids to get some shoes! šŸ˜‚

I’ve spent years helping homeowners solve moisture, humidity, and crawl space problems. Meanwhile, I’ve known for THREE YEARS that my own crawl space needed some serious attention.

Well, it’s finally happening!

We’re kicking off a new series documenting the transformation of the crawl space beneath my 1964 Dallas home. And we’re going to show you the entire process, not just the pretty finished product.

Here’s what’s on the agenda:

šŸ  Foundation leveling: Addressing movement associated with ongoing drainage problems.

šŸ’§ Water management: Installing a French drain, collection basin, and sump pump to manage water that finds its way beneath the house.

šŸ› ļø Crawl space encapsulation: Closing off the foundation vents and installing a sealed ground v***r barrier.

šŸŒ”ļø Humidity control: Installing a dedicated dehumidifier to help manage moisture in the newly enclosed space.

And most importantly, we’ll explain WHY we’re doing each step and how these systems work together.

My friend Nikki Krueger from Nikki Krueger has been encouraging me to tackle this project for a while. She knows how important crawl space moisture management is, especially in our hot, humid North Texas climate.

We’ll also be hearing from Rodrigo Duenas of FCS Foundation and Concrete, whose team is doing the work and bringing this project to life.

And my buddy Jay at Jay Akin | Exploring Building Science will be documenting much of the work, so make sure you’re following him too!

This isn’t just a renovation. It’s an opportunity to show how water management, foundation performance, air sealing, and humidity control all connect.

Follow Travis Jones, FCS Foundation and Concrete, and Jay Akin | Exploring Building Science to see the transformation from start to finish!

10/12/2026

Part 5: The Roof As a System šŸ 

Great attic ventilation isn’t just about getting hot air OUT. You also need a way for outside air to get IN.

It’s a system. And balance matters!

On this project, we’re using two of my favorite ventilation products.

šŸ”¹ O’Hagin Fire & Ice Intake Vent

When traditional soffit ventilation isn’t available or doesn’t provide enough intake, these low-profile, roof-mounted vents are a great option.

The Fire & Ice model includes 1/8-inch mesh and an ember-resistant insert designed to help prevent windborne embers from entering the attic. That’s an important resilience detail, even in areas where wildfire isn’t the first thing homeowners think about.

šŸ”¹ Roofivent ROTO Exhaust Vent

These wind-driven rotating vents are installed higher on the roof to help exhaust attic air.

I typically plan around one 6-inch ROTO for approximately 450 square feet of attic floor area, then evaluate the intake requirements and roof layout.

I also love that the top can be removed for inspection access to otherwise difficult-to-reach attic spaces.

Here’s the important part:

Intake down low. Exhaust up high.

The goal is a balanced ventilation system that helps manage attic heat and moisture without relying on powered attic fans.

And it’s not just about picking good products. The amount of ventilation, placement, available intake, and attic configuration all matter.

That’s why I look at ventilation as part of the entire roofing and building-envelope system.

SAVE this series if you’re planning a roof replacement. Attic ventilation deserves a conversation BEFORE the new roof goes on!

10/11/2026

Ryan Rush has been making some noise about Speed Queen dryers and house depressurization. So naturally, I had to investigate. šŸ˜‚

And to be fair, [email protected] has a legitimate point.

In a tight house, exhaust appliances matter. Clothes dryers, range hoods, and bathroom exhaust fans all move air out of the building. That air has to be replaced somehow.

If we don’t account for that, we can create pressure imbalances, potentially affecting combustion safety, comfort, and where replacement air enters the home.

But what about my house?

It’s an older, leaky house. So I grabbed my pressure gauge and tested the house with the Maytag running, then with the Speed Queen.

The result? Barely any measurable depressurization. Around -0.6 Pascals.

Does that mean dryers can’t cause problems? Absolutely not.

It means the response depends on the house, the equipment, and the other systems operating.

In a tighter home, I’d want to test the combined effects of exhaust appliances and verify whether dedicated makeup air or other provisions are needed.

Ryan, I appreciate you keeping us thinking about these things. But I couldn’t resist having a little fun. šŸ˜Ž

If you’re not testing, you’re guessing!

Share this with someone who appreciates a little building science rivalry.

10/11/2026

Part 4: The Roof As a System šŸ 

Some of the most important parts of your roof aren’t shingles at all. They’re pieces of METAL!

And how they’re designed, fabricated, and installed can make a huge difference in how your roof manages water.

Here’s a look at the flashing components we’re using on this project:

šŸ”¹ Drip Edge: Heavy-duty 26-gauge metal, custom-fabricated with different profiles for the eaves and rakes. Designed to meet our FORTIFIED roof-edge requirements.

šŸ”¹ Step Flashing: Individual pieces that direct water away from roof-to-wall intersections.

šŸ”¹ Headwall Flashing: Protects the transition where a sloped roof meets a vertical wall.

šŸ”¹ Pan Flashing: Custom-made for a chimney too close to the ridge for a conventional cricket.

šŸ”¹ Reglet Counterflashing: Fits into a groove cut into masonry and overlaps the underlying flashing to help keep water out.

šŸ”¹ W-Valley Metal: Creates an open valley that helps channel water and shed debris. Especially useful on roofs surrounded by trees.

Here’s the takeaway:

The most expensive shingles in the world won’t compensate for poorly designed or installed flashing.

A roof is a water-management SYSTEM, and every transition, pe*******on, and intersection matters.

These are the details most homeowners never see, but they’re some of the most important!

SAVE this series if you’re planning a roof replacement. Know what’s going into your roof before the shingles cover it all up!

10/10/2026

Part 3: The Roof As a System

One of the most vulnerable parts of your roof is also one of the most overlooked: THE EDGE.

And this is one of the reasons I’ve become such a fan of the FORTIFIED Roof standard developed by the Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety (IBHS).

We’re incorporating this detail into every roof we install, whether or not the homeowner is pursuing a FORTIFIED designation.

Here’s what we’re doing differently.

šŸ”¹ 26-gauge metal drip edge. Not the thin, easily bent material you often see. We’re using heavier metal with a minimum 2-inch fl**ge extending onto the roof deck. For this project, we had it fabricated at 3.5 inches to accommodate the roof and fascia conditions we might encounter.

šŸ”¹ Proper installation at the eaves and rakes. Our drip edge is installed beneath the underlayment at both locations, rather than using the conventional arrangement of underlayment over the drip edge at the eaves.

šŸ”¹ Peel-and-stick starter. We’re using Owens Corning’s rolled starter, which bonds to the metal drip edge and the underlayment, helping create a more secure, water-resistant roof edge.

šŸ”¹ The shingles finish the assembly. But the important work of managing water and securing the edge begins underneath them.

Why does this matter?

Wind-driven rain can exploit vulnerable roof edges. And during severe storms, damage that begins at the perimeter can lead to much bigger problems.

The FORTIFIED standard addresses these vulnerabilities through specific requirements for materials, fastening, and installation.

The details matter. Especially the ones you’ll never see once the roof is finished.

SAVE this series if you’re planning a roof replacement. These are the kinds of details worth discussing with your roofing contractor before the work begins.

10/10/2026

Part 2: The Roof As a System

A Class 4 shingle is only part of the story.

We’re installing an Owens Corning roofing system featuring Duration STORM Class 4 impact-resistant shingles in Onyx Black.

But before the first shingle goes on, there are several important components that deserve just as much attention.

Here’s what we’re using on this project:

šŸ”¹ ProArmor Synthetic Underlayment: Provides a secondary water-shedding layer over most of the roof deck.

šŸ”¹ WeatherLock Mat: Self-adhered ice and water barrier installed in vulnerable areas like valleys, around pe*******ons, and at roof-to-wall connections.

šŸ”¹ Rolled Starter: A peel-and-stick starter that helps secure the first course of shingles at the roof edges. We’re incorporating this into our FORTIFIED-inspired roof-edge detailing.

šŸ”¹ Duration STORM Shingles: Class 4 impact-resistant shingles designed to withstand hail impacts.

šŸ”¹ Impact-Resistant Ridge Cap: Because it makes little sense to install Class 4 shingles and then finish the hips and ridges with a standard cap that doesn’t offer the same impact-resistance classification.

Five components. One coordinated roofing system.

And that’s before we even get into flashing, ventilation, roof pe*******ons, and the other accessories that help make a roof perform.

I love the Owens Corning system, but this isn’t just about one manufacturer. It’s about choosing compatible products, following the installation requirements, and paying attention to the details that affect long-term performance.

A roof isn’t just shingles. It’s a system designed to manage water, resist weather, and protect the home underneath.

And we’re just getting started! I’ve got plenty more to show you from this project.

SAVE this series if you’re planning a roof replacement. Understanding what’s going UNDER and AROUND your shingles is just as important as choosing what goes on top.

10/09/2026

Some roofers are going to think I’m crazy. Others might think I’m just stupid. šŸ˜‚

Either way, here I am at Lowe’s late at night, buying roofing materials for a job that starts tomorrow.

Why? Because I’m a systems guy.

We’re doing our first Owens Corning roof in about five years, and I’m excited to be installing Duration STORM shingles.

But here’s the thing. I don’t just want the shingles. I want the SYSTEM.

The synthetic underlayment. The ice and water shield. The starter. The ridge cap. All designed to work together.

When our materials were delivered to this out-of-town project, some of the specified Owens Corning components had been substituted with another manufacturer’s products.

Were they bad products? Not necessarily.

But they weren’t what I ordered, and they weren’t part of the system I intended to install.

I want to give this homeowner a complete roofing system, installed with the right details, and eligible for the best manufacturer warranty we can provide.

So here I am, shopping for underlayment when I should probably be sleeping. šŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļø

And this is just the beginning.

Over the next several videos, I’m going to take you through this roof installation, the products we’re using, the details that matter, and why I believe a better roof starts long before the first shingle gets nailed down.

A roof is a system. Not just a stack of shingles.

Follow along, especially if you’re a homeowner planning to replace your roof or a roofer who cares about the details.

And to my roofing friends, would you have made the late-night Lowe’s run? šŸ˜‚

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